I'm at the decision point for what to put on the bottom side of the cab, fenders, etc. for my F1 I'm doing a full rehab on. The 3M undercoating stuff is often used, and must be pretty decent, but I've never used it. Bedliner stuff seems to be another material that some like. So .... what has worked for those of you that wanted toughness, but also rust protection, and the potential of putting on a color versus just black? The body is off, and on a rotisserie, so is easy to work on. The frame is done, and in Zero Rust, so won't be a part of this. The fenders I'd like to do this to .... partly for rust protection, but also to keep them less vulnerable to rock damage. This truck will be a driver, but one I'd like to keep a while, and still be able to clean up easily for the occasional show or two. I'm not terribly concerned about the cost, but do plan on doing this myself .... which has been the theme for everything that has been done so far on the truck. Thanks in advance for any help.

RG in Spokane

PS: An update photo of the F1 cab ... on my shop built rotisserie:

 

RG in Spokane,

I don't have any experence on this myself, but remember something about water trapped inside causing rust. I would like to know about this too... as it would help deaden the sound...

 

This is another one of those "it depends" answers. I have sprayed regular bediner, similar to Rhino lining, and a few others like the Duplicolor rattlecan product and Herculiner. It depends on what your end goal is...if you just want better protection from the day-to-day roadhazards, chips, salt, rust, etc then most any product will be an improvement over just paint. I use the thicker bedliner on my trucks because I have the equipment to spray it and I can buy it at a substantial discount...I probably would not use it so much if I had to take my parts to the local Rhinoliner guy. Most any of these products can be painted over if you use the right primer so color should not be a real concern. Here in SoCal the EPA/CARB folks are really cracking down on anything that has VOCs or anything else for that matter so buying the "good" stuff is getting harder and harder. If you can find a source for the Rhino-type bedliner and you have a decent spray rig and Schutz sprayer/gun, then you should be set for a DIY project.

 

Undercoating would be ok if you weren't looking for rock and chip protection. Its rubberized so it will be soft in the summer and brittle in the winter. The bedliner stuff is pretty strong stuff. I used it on my 55 on the frame, firewall and inner fenders. I do plan on using it on the inside of my fenders, running boards and anywhere else that can get wet underneath. You can do like Charlie and spray it or like I did and brush it on. I got a gallon of it from walmart for 50 bucks and it went pretty far, it did all the stuff mentioned earlier and I still have some left. When I get the truck ready to paint my plan is to go over everything 1 more time. This way I will be able to make sure its good and coated while the body is off the frame...

 

tardster, do you have any idea of how thick you got the Walmart stuff on in one coat? Did you apply multiple coats? Is that product catalyzed or does it have to air dry? Thanks...

EDIT: I did a little research and from what I have found the WalMart bedliner is Dupli-Color Bed Armor, a water-based product reinforced with Kevlar. I have seen it applied on one of the Trucks! episodes and they spoke highly of it. They did apply a couple of coats and used the roller supplied with the kit.

 

Hmmm ..... good info guys .... much appreciated! One question .... is it best for bed liner material to be direct applied over bare metal? Or is a coat of etching primer ok under it?? I'd see using some etch primer for a while until our weather is good enough to do all the pieces at once. Underbody .. fenders .. running boards .. etc.

RG

 

Etching primer is somewhat old skool these days, it has some compatibility issues when topcoated with some other epoxy paints. Direct To Metal (DTM) is really what you want to use, it is made to go over bare metals and it is a 2K product...uses a catalyst and is super-durable. I have used various products from various vendors...for the past few jobs I have been using SEM Metalock and have been impressed with the way it sprays and sands.
To answer your question, use a good DTM primer first and then your bedliner.

 

After using a good quality primer use 3M body shutz (you have to get a gun about 65 dollars at NPD). It dries hard (like stuff originally used) so you can paint right over it. You are better off NOT using the rattle can undercoating IMHO.

Paul

 

robertr, that is a cool cab rotissary!
I agree the aerosol cans of undercoating are not resistant to fuel and oil. So even though it can HELP with rust prevention, its not a perfect way to go.

 

The Duplicolor bedliner is the best of the "cheap" ones I have used. If you want color matching liner, get Hippo-liner from TCP Global. I used this on the inside of my bed....same color as the truck.
As for rock protection under fenders, using liner will help...but not stop it. I've gone back to undercoating. It offers more cushion. The old asphalt u/c works great, but it stinks...

 

you just reminded me of hot summers behind an asphalt paver...
I have a certification for nuclear density testing of bituminous surfaces.

shoot! a few days behind the paver makes death valley sound inviting!

It comes out of the paver at aprox 320-350 deg F

 

I rhinoed my cab/fenders/frame. I'm thinking it will be there for along time. Tinman look up my old thrend on insulation. I sprayed my back wall and roof with closed cell foam . This stuff is great and will last forever.

 

Sorry tinman i meant that for robertr.

 

I like your stand and appreciate you posting the question as I will be referring to the responses at a future date.

 

CharlieLed .... thanks for the primer update. Its been a few years since I've done much painting, so your comments are much appreciated. How about the NAPA Martin Senour lines of primer and paint? I'm able to get a very good discount on their stuff, while there are only a couple of other stores here for anything else, and those are scary overpriced. I would hope NAPA has a decent DTM primer. Also ... what about hi build primer after the DTM? Is there a good version of that from NAPA?? Thanks!!!

Paul (59JeepStang), I can get access to a gun for the 3M stuff. I like most of the 3M products, and definitely like the idea of being able to paint over that.

Jeff .....Glad you like the "el cheapo" cab rotisserie. I made it from part of a 1 ton stake bed outer frame, some heavy wall tubing, and lots of scraps. I will clean and paint if before it gets used for final body painting. That will keep it from being a dust magnet! It makes the body work and paint work MUCH easier, and by being bolted inside to existing body fasteners and holes, it doesn't make it tough to mount, and keeps the body from getting twisted out of shape. Once I have the full outer surfaces done on the body, I'll remove the rotisserie and put the cab back on a cart I made last year. Then I can get the interior done without any access issues.

Thanks again guys .... all your info is very, very helpful

RG in Spokane