Are you asking about the original 15" snap ring innie wheels that were on it when it landed in my driveway. If so those are no longer available new. You will have to find them on ebay, craigslist, your local pull and save or wrecking yard. Im holding onto those as I am currently looking for some 5 lug 16" non split innie wheels I have 3 and need 2 more. If I dont find those by the time it comes to getting new rubber for the truck I will start looking around for wheel places that will take the inside part of these rims and make some rims for me using the inside parts of the wheel itself. Hope I answered your question.

Edit ops I went back and read your post again and it looks like you are asking about the tube type biasply tires to use with intertubes. In answer to that question I have no idea. Sorry I have not looked into that part of the restoration at all.

 

If those tires were still available Coker tire would be the place to check for them.

 

Thanks Ted I didnt think of that. I would first try my local Les Schwab to see wha they could come up with. They are a big tire store in the west. All up and down the west coast and the interior west. When you have tires with them you never have to worry about having problems on the road out in the west anyway.

 

Its been slow going lately lots of other stuff pulling me away from projects. I did get a little time for the 65 so I thought I would kill 2 birds with one stone.

Practice welding before starting on the 63 and modify something at the same time. So I pulled out the oil bath air cleaner that I had started to modify a number of months ago. Here is what I am doing to convert it over to a paper air filter.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/7051179057/http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/7051179057/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/vic-63-65/, on Flickr
First I went to Home Depot and walked the isles till I found something metal and round that would fit inside the throat of the original air cleaner with a close enough tolorence to be able to weld it in place. I found a 5"to 4" air duct reducer that fit just right so welded it in place by cutting metal tabs out of the flange inside and tacking them in place until it was welded in place around the full diameter of the air cleaner carb opening.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6905084752/http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6905084752/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/vic-63-65/, on Flickr
Now you might wonder why is he adding that particular part to the throat of the air cleaner. This was done to raise the air cleaner to clear the holley 2v carb that is slightly different than the stock Ford carb that was on the truck. So in the first pic the duct will be cut off at the first step about 1 1/2 inches above the air cleaner in the first pic with already flattened down edge to ride on the throat of the carb.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6905138722/http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6905138722/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/vic-63-65/, on Flickr
Here is the inside housing of the air cleaner where you see the numbers the plan is to cut 1 1/2" holes around the outside of the housing as without them the air cleaner seems very restrictive to proper air flow to the carb. The paper filter will sit in this housing and ride against the top with the flat sheetmetal welded into it. The top comes down and overlaps this part so is very restrictive as far as airflow goes.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6905139492/http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6905139492/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/vic-63-65/, on Flickr
Next the outside cover or top will need a piece of round 18 gage metal welded into it to overcome the ridges stamped into the cover top of the air cleaner. If left as is the air will pass around the filter. Welding the flat piece into the top at the stamped in round ridge will seal the air filter against the top of the housing with no way for intake air to bypass the fiter.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6905140398/http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6905140398/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/vic-63-65/, on Flickr
Im still wondering what to do with the outside part of the air cleaner to increase air flow. If anyone has any ideas I would be open to suggestions. I thought about finding someone local that does louvering but that might be cost prohibitive. Next I thought about cutting holes and then covering them somehow with parts of air flow vents for heating either screwed or welded into place. I have not gone out and checked on what is out there yet for this part of this air cleaner project. If you have any ideas let me know please.

 

Looks good. One warning when shopping for metal at Home Depot make sure what you pick out isn't galvanized. Welding that stuff can make you real sick.

 

So it would be best to wear a respirator to weld galvy then. I did that furnace duct part with no side affects or sickness. Ill google it up and see what I find thanks for the warning.

A link Metal Fume Fever
http://www.aws.org/technical/facts/FACT-25.pdf
So Im not to worried I had good ventilation and I did not feel any of the effects of this type of welding. I will however in the future be wearing a breathing apparatus such as a respirator when I weld galvie and when I weld in the top panel to the air cleaner. I have the 16 gage galvie sheet metal just have to get it cut and welded in.

 

I won't weld the stuff at all. I've already got enough health problems and don't want to chance it.

 

I put a little more time in on the former oilbath air cleaner.

I cut off the airduct reducer at the proper place and checked it for fit on the holley 2 barrell carb. It fits. I also started cutting holes in this part for better airflow to the carb the old oilbath housing seems very restrictive as it is. I hoping to improve upon that.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/7059345961/http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/7059345961/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/vic-63-65/, on Flickr
Ill head to the parts house on Monday and see if they can come up with a paper filter that fits the housing. So in the future when I change to a holley 4 barrell I should be able to keep this air filter to retain the stock look.

Welded in the plate in the top of the air cleaner cover so that the air filter will draw air through the filter and not around the top of the filter.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/7059347615/http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/7059347615/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/vic-63-65/, on Flickr

The two sections together on the carb showing what it should look like when it is assembled and on the carb. I could probably lower it a bit but I think Ill leave it there. I started to drill 1 1/2 inch holes on the inside housing but my drill went dead and I didnt have any charged batteries so I had to stop for the night.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6913264480/http://www.flickr.com/photos/vic-63-65/6913264480/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/vic-63-65/, on Flickr

 

Nice work. And good idea to increase the air flow.

 

Yeah Ted more air in = more air out. Just now as I looked at the first pic I thought about drilling holes all around that stamped lip that is parallel to the intake. That would make them virtually invisible until you take the housing off and flip it over. When you put the cover on there is about an 1/8 of an inch between inter and outer housing. These had to be very air restrictive but I guess what people said they were the best as far as stopping crud from getting into the intake especially in dusty conditions.

 

As long as the holes are outside the circumference of the air filter I say go for it.

 

Yup thats the plan. If you look at the first pic the filter sits in that lower section close to the carb. The upper section is what and where I am drilling the 1 1/2 inch holes around the outside probably be 8 of those and then quite a few more around that lip that will have them kind of being concealed Ill take pics and post when I get it done. That should help air intake. Just starting to get use to my new welder so this was a good project. The .025 wire that I am using is an easy grind wire. It does seem to grind off pretty easy so it should work fine for doing body work when I get started on that.

 

YYou have an automatic chokeand for a four barrel carb

 

Funny thing about a holley 2v carb and a 4v carb both halves look identical. You are just looking at the front half of a 4v. By that I mean its only a 500 cfm 2 barrel carb sitting there. If you go back in my project and look at earlier pics youll see its a 2 and not a 4 barrel. Oh and that assembly on the left in the pic is the setup for a manual choke not an electric or vacumm operated. This bored out headered 352 seems to love the power band on this particular carb way better than the Ford thirst quencher that was there.

 

So what you are saying is my 351 w would work better(better gas mileage)with a 2welding barrel carb then 4/ and yourd doesnt have an automatic choke lol sorry that was a lot of info