36 gal tank swap?
#17
I couldn't care less about miles to empty. I need to know gallons to empty. An accurate fuel gauge is fine. I just can't figure out if the tank and pump in the EB is the same. I haven't done it yet because it would stand to reason it isn't an EB option for a reason. But what's the reason?
#18
I couldn't care less about miles to empty. I need to know gallons to empty. An accurate fuel gauge is fine. I just can't figure out if the tank and pump in the EB is the same. I haven't done it yet because it would stand to reason it isn't an EB option for a reason. But what's the reason?
I wouldn't be shocked that if you went to the fleet manager at your local dealer if you could get one ordered with the larger tank.
#19
I couldn't care less about miles to empty. I need to know gallons to empty. An accurate fuel gauge is fine. I just can't figure out if the tank and pump in the EB is the same. I haven't done it yet because it would stand to reason it isn't an EB option for a reason. But what's the reason?
#21
I highly doubt there would be an issue with fuel pressure from the tank to the engine. And thinking that the ecoboost only puts out about 360HP, it would flow about as much fuel as either a 5.0 or 6.2. So chances are they both use the same fuel tank pump. The direct injection pressure come from the fuel pump on the engine, chances are it's a cam driven unit like it was on my LNF, and like it is on Audi's or VW's (a bosch unit most likely).
#23
New Here. Something I question on the 36 gallon tank swap with an older moder is I believe ford went to the filter in the tank on the 2011 model. If you are going to put the tank and all the hardware in a 2011 you might want the filter system from a 2009-10 as well. Something to check on and it might all be the same too.
#24
Update on tank swap:
It's a tough job working by your lonesome, but doable. You need to jack up the back a bunch for clearance. A lift would make it easier, but then you'de need 2 people to handle the tank. I ended up putting 3 concrete blocks plus a 2x4 under my rear receiver hitch, making sure to put the load directly over the concrete block's center support. That lets the rear suspension drop to full droop. That is important to get the driveshaft out of the way.
For access, you then have to take the exhaust loose. I dropped mine from the front compression flange, also taking loose the 3 brackets supporting the muffler and tail pipe. I did not take the pipe/muffler completely out, but dropped it and slid it all the way forward.
I then disconnected the two gas line connections forward of the tank. Next, take off the front tank support strap. The front of the tank will drop....I supported it with a 6" block to keep it off the floor. Supporting the rear of the tank with a floor jack, take loose the rear strap. Lower the rear of the tank enough to allow the 2 electrical plugs to be disconnected. The gray one with red tabs on top was a real bit** for me. (Rant about arcane ways to lock plugs together when they are in a position that's difficult to see and access.) Now I know that the little red slider has to slide all the way over to allow you to press another tab that allows disengagement. The smaller plug was straighforward. Drop the tank a little more, exposing the fuel filler neck rubber hose and a vapor line that has to be disconnected. Hose clamp and a little snap clamp later, the old tank is ready to drop. At this point, you are very happy that you ran the tank just about all the way empty.
Comparing the 26 gal tank to the 36 gal tank on the ground: All plugs and connections look compatible. The high point on the tank, containing the filler neck and fuel pump are the same: ergo, it looks to me that the tank level sender and pump are the same. I suspect that the gas gauge will read identically, but that the miles to empty will not be right, as has been stated in threads above. The tanks differ in that a significantly higher dimension is carried further toward the front on the big tank, giving greater capacity. Length and width appear the same.
Putting the big tank back: Place the front on the same 6" block. Raise the rear with the jack, joining the electrical connection plugs. Raise it further to where you can mate the rubber filler hose to the neck. This is made easier by taking out 3 small bolts that secure the top of the filler neck inside the fuel filler door, and an additional hose clamp located in front of the rear wheel. These steps allow some wiggle in the fuel filler neck, and allow the hose to tank neck mating. That was the most difficult part of the job to me, due to very close access. Tightening a hose clamp screw onto the tank that you can't see also wasn't fun at all. Getting the hose fully mated with the male fitting on the tank was also challenging. Connect the vapor line back. For some of you wizard wrenches, these things may not be difficult....but I struggled. Perseverance paid off, and I'm ready to attach the support straps. You better have the straps mated up on the hinge side and hanging at this point, or you'll be unhooking the fuel filler neck connection and dropping the tank again;i.e., hang the straps BEFORE you raise the new tank. I was fortunate, and did, in fact, do this.
The straps went back in place very straightforward. I was surprised at how much they compressed the tank. It ain't gonna wiggle a bit!!
Reconnect the 2 front connections, and you are done with the fuel tank.
Now for putting the exhaust back....that's where I'm out of time until Wednesday or Thursday. I'll let you know how it goes when I'm back on the case.
It's a tough job working by your lonesome, but doable. You need to jack up the back a bunch for clearance. A lift would make it easier, but then you'de need 2 people to handle the tank. I ended up putting 3 concrete blocks plus a 2x4 under my rear receiver hitch, making sure to put the load directly over the concrete block's center support. That lets the rear suspension drop to full droop. That is important to get the driveshaft out of the way.
For access, you then have to take the exhaust loose. I dropped mine from the front compression flange, also taking loose the 3 brackets supporting the muffler and tail pipe. I did not take the pipe/muffler completely out, but dropped it and slid it all the way forward.
I then disconnected the two gas line connections forward of the tank. Next, take off the front tank support strap. The front of the tank will drop....I supported it with a 6" block to keep it off the floor. Supporting the rear of the tank with a floor jack, take loose the rear strap. Lower the rear of the tank enough to allow the 2 electrical plugs to be disconnected. The gray one with red tabs on top was a real bit** for me. (Rant about arcane ways to lock plugs together when they are in a position that's difficult to see and access.) Now I know that the little red slider has to slide all the way over to allow you to press another tab that allows disengagement. The smaller plug was straighforward. Drop the tank a little more, exposing the fuel filler neck rubber hose and a vapor line that has to be disconnected. Hose clamp and a little snap clamp later, the old tank is ready to drop. At this point, you are very happy that you ran the tank just about all the way empty.
Comparing the 26 gal tank to the 36 gal tank on the ground: All plugs and connections look compatible. The high point on the tank, containing the filler neck and fuel pump are the same: ergo, it looks to me that the tank level sender and pump are the same. I suspect that the gas gauge will read identically, but that the miles to empty will not be right, as has been stated in threads above. The tanks differ in that a significantly higher dimension is carried further toward the front on the big tank, giving greater capacity. Length and width appear the same.
Putting the big tank back: Place the front on the same 6" block. Raise the rear with the jack, joining the electrical connection plugs. Raise it further to where you can mate the rubber filler hose to the neck. This is made easier by taking out 3 small bolts that secure the top of the filler neck inside the fuel filler door, and an additional hose clamp located in front of the rear wheel. These steps allow some wiggle in the fuel filler neck, and allow the hose to tank neck mating. That was the most difficult part of the job to me, due to very close access. Tightening a hose clamp screw onto the tank that you can't see also wasn't fun at all. Getting the hose fully mated with the male fitting on the tank was also challenging. Connect the vapor line back. For some of you wizard wrenches, these things may not be difficult....but I struggled. Perseverance paid off, and I'm ready to attach the support straps. You better have the straps mated up on the hinge side and hanging at this point, or you'll be unhooking the fuel filler neck connection and dropping the tank again;i.e., hang the straps BEFORE you raise the new tank. I was fortunate, and did, in fact, do this.
The straps went back in place very straightforward. I was surprised at how much they compressed the tank. It ain't gonna wiggle a bit!!
Reconnect the 2 front connections, and you are done with the fuel tank.
Now for putting the exhaust back....that's where I'm out of time until Wednesday or Thursday. I'll let you know how it goes when I'm back on the case.
#25
Update on tank swap:
It's a tough job working by your lonesome, but doable. You need to jack up the back a bunch for clearance. A lift would make it easier, but then you'de need 2 people to handle the tank. I ended up putting 3 concrete blocks plus a 2x4 under my rear receiver hitch, making sure to put the load directly over the concrete block's center support. That lets the rear suspension drop to full droop. That is important to get the driveshaft out of the way.
For access, you then have to take the exhaust loose. I dropped mine from the front compression flange, also taking loose the 3 brackets supporting the muffler and tail pipe. I did not take the pipe/muffler completely out, but dropped it and slid it all the way forward.
I then disconnected the two gas line connections forward of the tank. Next, take off the front tank support strap. The front of the tank will drop....I supported it with a 6" block to keep it off the floor. Supporting the rear of the tank with a floor jack, take loose the rear strap. Lower the rear of the tank enough to allow the 2 electrical plugs to be disconnected. The gray one with red tabs on top was a real bit** for me. (Rant about arcane ways to lock plugs together when they are in a position that's difficult to see and access.) Now I know that the little red slider has to slide all the way over to allow you to press another tab that allows disengagement. The smaller plug was straighforward. Drop the tank a little more, exposing the fuel filler neck rubber hose and a vapor line that has to be disconnected. Hose clamp and a little snap clamp later, the old tank is ready to drop. At this point, you are very happy that you ran the tank just about all the way empty.
Comparing the 26 gal tank to the 36 gal tank on the ground: All plugs and connections look compatible. The high point on the tank, containing the filler neck and fuel pump are the same: ergo, it looks to me that the tank level sender and pump are the same. I suspect that the gas gauge will read identically, but that the miles to empty will not be right, as has been stated in threads above. The tanks differ in that a significantly higher dimension is carried further toward the front on the big tank, giving greater capacity. Length and width appear the same.
Putting the big tank back: Place the front on the same 6" block. Raise the rear with the jack, joining the electrical connection plugs. Raise it further to where you can mate the rubber filler hose to the neck. This is made easier by taking out 3 small bolts that secure the top of the filler neck inside the fuel filler door, and an additional hose clamp located in front of the rear wheel. These steps allow some wiggle in the fuel filler neck, and allow the hose to tank neck mating. That was the most difficult part of the job to me, due to very close access. Tightening a hose clamp screw onto the tank that you can't see also wasn't fun at all. Getting the hose fully mated with the male fitting on the tank was also challenging. Connect the vapor line back. For some of you wizard wrenches, these things may not be difficult....but I struggled. Perseverance paid off, and I'm ready to attach the support straps. You better have the straps mated up on the hinge side and hanging at this point, or you'll be unhooking the fuel filler neck connection and dropping the tank again;i.e., hang the straps BEFORE you raise the new tank. I was fortunate, and did, in fact, do this.
The straps went back in place very straightforward. I was surprised at how much they compressed the tank. It ain't gonna wiggle a bit!!
Reconnect the 2 front connections, and you are done with the fuel tank.
Now for putting the exhaust back....that's where I'm out of time until Wednesday or Thursday. I'll let you know how it goes when I'm back on the case.
It's a tough job working by your lonesome, but doable. You need to jack up the back a bunch for clearance. A lift would make it easier, but then you'de need 2 people to handle the tank. I ended up putting 3 concrete blocks plus a 2x4 under my rear receiver hitch, making sure to put the load directly over the concrete block's center support. That lets the rear suspension drop to full droop. That is important to get the driveshaft out of the way.
For access, you then have to take the exhaust loose. I dropped mine from the front compression flange, also taking loose the 3 brackets supporting the muffler and tail pipe. I did not take the pipe/muffler completely out, but dropped it and slid it all the way forward.
I then disconnected the two gas line connections forward of the tank. Next, take off the front tank support strap. The front of the tank will drop....I supported it with a 6" block to keep it off the floor. Supporting the rear of the tank with a floor jack, take loose the rear strap. Lower the rear of the tank enough to allow the 2 electrical plugs to be disconnected. The gray one with red tabs on top was a real bit** for me. (Rant about arcane ways to lock plugs together when they are in a position that's difficult to see and access.) Now I know that the little red slider has to slide all the way over to allow you to press another tab that allows disengagement. The smaller plug was straighforward. Drop the tank a little more, exposing the fuel filler neck rubber hose and a vapor line that has to be disconnected. Hose clamp and a little snap clamp later, the old tank is ready to drop. At this point, you are very happy that you ran the tank just about all the way empty.
Comparing the 26 gal tank to the 36 gal tank on the ground: All plugs and connections look compatible. The high point on the tank, containing the filler neck and fuel pump are the same: ergo, it looks to me that the tank level sender and pump are the same. I suspect that the gas gauge will read identically, but that the miles to empty will not be right, as has been stated in threads above. The tanks differ in that a significantly higher dimension is carried further toward the front on the big tank, giving greater capacity. Length and width appear the same.
Putting the big tank back: Place the front on the same 6" block. Raise the rear with the jack, joining the electrical connection plugs. Raise it further to where you can mate the rubber filler hose to the neck. This is made easier by taking out 3 small bolts that secure the top of the filler neck inside the fuel filler door, and an additional hose clamp located in front of the rear wheel. These steps allow some wiggle in the fuel filler neck, and allow the hose to tank neck mating. That was the most difficult part of the job to me, due to very close access. Tightening a hose clamp screw onto the tank that you can't see also wasn't fun at all. Getting the hose fully mated with the male fitting on the tank was also challenging. Connect the vapor line back. For some of you wizard wrenches, these things may not be difficult....but I struggled. Perseverance paid off, and I'm ready to attach the support straps. You better have the straps mated up on the hinge side and hanging at this point, or you'll be unhooking the fuel filler neck connection and dropping the tank again;i.e., hang the straps BEFORE you raise the new tank. I was fortunate, and did, in fact, do this.
The straps went back in place very straightforward. I was surprised at how much they compressed the tank. It ain't gonna wiggle a bit!!
Reconnect the 2 front connections, and you are done with the fuel tank.
Now for putting the exhaust back....that's where I'm out of time until Wednesday or Thursday. I'll let you know how it goes when I'm back on the case.
#26
#28
Everything in the 26 gal tank is identical to what's in the 36 gal tank, to my way of thinking. If there is a filter in one, it's in the other. I did not open the fuel tanks to look at the assemblies. I did observe that, dimensionally, the placement of the top plane of the 26 gal tank is the same as the 36 gal tank. That's why the fuel pump and sender assemblies can be identical and still work. The fuel filter neck works with either tank. Remember, I have the 5.4 engine in a 2010 truck. I do not know if the Ecoboost engine requires something different in the tank of not.
#29
#30
Everything in the 26 gal tank is identical to what's in the 36 gal tank, to my way of thinking. If there is a filter in one, it's in the other. I did not open the fuel tanks to look at the assemblies. I did observe that, dimensionally, the placement of the top plane of the 26 gal tank is the same as the 36 gal tank. That's why the fuel pump and sender assemblies can be identical and still work. The fuel filter neck works with either tank. Remember, I have the 5.4 engine in a 2010 truck. I do not know if the Ecoboost engine requires something different in the tank of not.
Did You ad an external filter? Personally, I would have removed the pickup assembly and removed any filter. Then installed a decent in line filter.