Hey guys! Im new to this site and have been reading all the great info that y'all are sharing and thanks for all the helpful tips in advance but here is my problem: I have an 03 exploder with 4.0 SOHC flex and i went to leave yesterday and when i started the engine it was very rough in idling like it wasnt getting enough fuel (spit n sputter) i call it, so i sat for a sec and was in a rush so said oh it will get better well i drove to the end of my street like 0.2 mi. and realized it wasnt going to get any better so turned around and went back to my driveway and stopped got out was listening to it no knocking or weird sounds but oil was puddling underneath. Well boytoy came to check it out and the valve cover is cracked toward the back just above the last bolt????? Ploder had good oil pressure no knocking as if a throwed bearing or rod so what would make the valve cover crack like that. We didnt have time to remove the cover before getting too dark and the suspense is driving me crazy. Rocker arm, slung a rod, valve? Any comments are truly appreciated as i have to get my ride back soon, and would like to know what kind of $$$ looking at!!! Hopefully not new motor$%*&@#!!Thanks again in advance

 

i hope i get an answer soon the suspense is killing me!!! I know... Im a girl so i guess girls arent supposed to know anything bout cars, but i know a little bit after being around mechanics, hot rods,and dragster all my life!!! So thats why im asking the guys in this forum but nobody will reply!! How long does it take to get moderator to reply normally? I bet im gonna have to replace the whole motor and everything cuz i never seen one(valve cover) that split like this one and i grew up in a mechanics shop. Can anyone help me find the valve cover itself? Its a dealer part and cost over 100.00!! Please help

 

Can you give us a little more information please? You should be able to get a new valve cover from your local boneyard or pick and pull. You say the oil pressure was still good,no knocking or pinging. so you may not have thrown anything. Have you let it run low on oil? Or any other fluids? Any overheating? People better than me Im sure can help with some more information. Thanks!

 

Are you sure it was the valve cover that was cracked and not the intake manifold? A cracked intake manifold would be more likely to cause the spit and sputter (although not likely to cause the oil puddle underneath). Also, the plastic manifolds on these V6 engines have been known to cause vacuum leaks, which would explain the spit and sputter.

The valve covers on your Explorer may also be a composite material and maybe it was damaged due to uneven torquing at some point, or maybe something was dropped on it.

As for expecting an answer within an hour of posting, keep in mind that moderating this forum is not a paid position, there are not moderators or experts that are constantly monitoring this forum for questions. Many of the active members are only checking the forum during breaks throughout the day and in the evenings.

-Rod

 

if you lost power then either the intake is cracked and your loosing it there (but why the oil leak?), or the valve cover cracked and that explalins the oil leak, buy why the loss of power (unless you have a valve or similar problem as you suggested).... next step is to pull tha valve cover off and look... dont need a motor, need more info.

 

Thanks guys for all the info so far. Well the valve cover is definitely cracked as i can see where the oil is staining around the hairline crack and it goes from just above the last bolt on the valve cover to about the middle of the top of valve cover. That is definitely where the oil is coming from. The oil pressure is still showing full on dipstick even after 2 puddles left on driveway and carport. I dont have anyone who can take the valve cover off just as of yet but still working on it. As for the car running low on oil--never. Always changed bout every 4000 miles. It has never, ever ran hot!! i have not had any problems whatsoever with the emploder since my purchase in Aug. 2008! Original owner said it was kept in garage most of time as he was OTR comm driver. He put 82,000 mi. on the motor from interstate driving mostly in ATL and it now has 130,000 miles after 2 years of more interstate driving due to moving from Pensacola to Georgia. All i have ever had to do was change the oil, new wipers, gen maint., etc. I know its probably time for the timing chain to be replaced and trani serviced as it doesnt have a dipstick to check levels, but i'm single mom with limited income at the moment, and i always got the shade tree mech that says if it aint broke dont fix it kinda deal, lol, which is not the proper thing to do i know. It really has been a great vehicle!!!!!!! I'm sorry for rushing u guys the other day, just a little impatient and concerned, SOOO SORRY!! This is my only means of transportation and as single mom, with my return to school in less than 2 weeks w/o a vehicle, just a little stressed!! Again i apologize. I truly appreciate the time and effort you guys put into this forum more than you can imagine and you should surely be compensated for all the great info your making available to the ordinary joe who knows nothing bout cars and for the ones that know, who still seek advice!!! KUDOS TO U ALL ANDThanks again so much cuz YOU ALL ROCK!!!!! Any further information would be greatly appreciated as the diagnosis is still uncertain and will be until valve cover is removed. I will keep u posted as to the findings in the very near future( I hope). Thanks again in advance for all that you do, some of us really depend on your guidance and trust our lives and saftey of our children with your knowledge and dedication to repairing our vehicles!!! You should all be commended!! Your Friend,
Me

 

Thank you for following up with what's been confirmed to date, and the kind comments for the forum. Based on your first and recent posts, it sounds like you have two issues unfortunately. I can't understand how the cracked valve cover gasket would cause the rough idle. I wonder if the valve cover's been cracked for awhile but the rough idle caused you to look around for an issue and you found the crack at that time. Since oil leaking on to a hot engine could cause a fire, certainly start there, but be sure to have whomever replaces the cover search around for a likely source of a vacuum leak as well. These things can hide well, such as between the flex points of an intake air tube, in the inner radius of a rubber elbow, between the upper and lower intake manifold, as well as at the end of a regular rubber hose. Who knows, maybe you'll get lucky and the rough idle will be fixed with a replacement valve cover. If that happens I'm going to have to do some research to understand why though.

-Rod

 

Since the engine is a closed system (evap requirement), any leaks will cause a lean (illegal air) situation.

I am sure that replacement or repair of the offending cover will do the trick.

Do you have a CEL light? I am surprised that the CPM has not thrown a code yet.

I have repaired one of these covers with JB weld, must be cleaned (no oil residue) and V grooved, over zealous or uneven torque will evenually cause cracking. .Philip

 

The cassette prob broke and cracked the valve cover. If the crack is on the passenger side rear or driver's side front then thats what caused it. The engine could be out of time on one side causing it to run rough if the cassette broke. If the driver's side broke then it can be fixed with the engine in the car, if the passenger side broke then the engine has to come out to fix it.

 

Ahhh, thank you for that explanation!

-Rod

 

Well thanks once again for input, The valve cover is cracked on the passenger side back just over the last bolt. I hope that replacing the valve cove will fix but i am just curious to know why it is cracked. Someone stated that uneven torquing could be the reason for the crack but the engine has not been torqued. The engine has never been worked on. I do have the check engine light on and its flashing not just steady on. Im very curious as to what the cassette is as we are still in limbo as to why i have this problem any info is greatly appreciated! Thanks again!

Your Friend,
Me

 

The cassette is what Ford calls the timing chain guides. They are plastic parts that support the chain and makes sure it runs in the correct position and a hydralic tensioner presses against the guide to keep the chain tight. When the guide breaks there is no longer correct tension on the chain allowing it to slap around or jump teeth on the cam gear. If it jumps teeth then the valves are not in time with the pistons meaning the valve can be open when the piston is at the top of the cylinder causing them to hit which bends the valve. When the chain slaps around it can chew into the aluminum head or hit the valve cover cracking it. Or parts of the broken guide can get wedged between the chain and valve cover cracking it.

The left cassette is part 10 there is another one on the right side at the rear

 

Hey guys I had to pull motor and replace the rear timing chain, guides and tensioners. I have had the car back now for about a month and now I have the timing chain clank on drivers side. We removed valve cover and the timing chain has alot of slack (bout 1/2in) on(if facing motor) right(bottom) part of the chain and left(top) is extremely tight or was until we done some tapping,(on accident) the hydraulic tensioner and went back to it today and the chain was tight on both sides without turning over camshaft???? Well we thought it was debris inside the galley plug n proceeded to putting parts back on and now it wont crank n run. Any input on timing specs or if it would be out of time or what?? Im ready to put some dynamite underneath and forget Ford and their cheap a** guides, tensioners and flubbed 4.0 SOHC motors. They should be MADE to fix their engineering mistakes, but after 1800.00 and no car again they consider themselves not responsible!! Go figure, I think its unfair that there are hundreds of thousands of people literally with this same problem, coming out of their pockets for parts, labor, and one of hell of an inconvience to repair a motor numerous times(as from prev post,clank keeps coming back due to nylon?,plastic,? Why would they not be steel?) that Ford has manufactured or designed poorly. This is clearly Fords fault and they should be held accountable,made to recall this motor and fix every single one they produced for FREE!!! then they would change their thoughts on this cheap design an trying to save a buck would cost them TRILLIONS!!! I mean come on, put some real steel on these parts that are so detrimental to the running of our so called AMERICAN MADE cars!!! Im serious this is sickening to know that this many people have this problem all the way back into the 90' models and Ford TOO CHEAP to own up to their poorly made design!!! Any advice would be greatly appreciated, you guys are really helpful and again Ford should be lucky that they have guys like you out here helping to cover their cheap a**** when the poor man cant get to work, cuz Ford wont fix their pcs of s*** that are Found.On.Rollbacks.Daily!!!!! Thanks Wanna B Anything But GT!!

 

Wow!

You know, I can not think of one single manufacturer that has a warranty that would pay for something like this at 130,000 miles. I think your frustration is misdirected at Ford. Things go bad sometimes, and yeah it sucks but you have to deal with it. If you think you have been treated unfairly, why don't you take them to court and see what a judge thinks.

I think that your estimate of hundreds of thousands of people having the same issue is a little exaggerated.

Because of your rant, I am unable to determine what your question is. What all has been done before it won't crank anymore?

 

It is poor engineering that would have a timing chain guide wear out and break bending engine valves, sending debris thru the valve cover and hot oil onto a hot engine. My neighbors 2003 Explorer 4.0 at 131,000 miles did just that 2 months ago, as well as 2 of my employees 2003 4.0. All 3 owners 4.0 engines were damaged and all within 2,000 odometer miles of each vehical on the same side of the engine same place at the valve cover...Of course i love my 2003, 225,000 mile 6.0 Ford 250 diesel......lol