I just wanted to confirm they have some still in stock, prior to ordering. If they would have to make more, before they could ship one out to me, I'd be more likely to attempt making my own. Particularly if it was going to be a couple weeks (or more) before they could fill the order......


Also need to repair the pin where the clutch master attaches. Got a bit of wear there on the pedal set I got. Will either use a bronze bushing, or adapt a small hiem joint, to prevent a reccurance.

 

I found out I needed the larger plate, instead of the smaller one. I've tried to contact Terrapin and see if they were still available, but no reply. I'm glad you posted that it took a week and a half to receive, because I had a plan of doing it sooner. However, it sucks that this part is so hard to get and I wish someone could post the measurements/pattern on this thread, then maybe we could take a stab at making it ourselves.
I'm so agitated over this problem I can't see straight. By the time you get one issue fixed another one is right behind it.

 

If you can afford it, I would go for it, you should only need to repair this one time and not have to worry about it ever again.


I ordered it through his website, so I don't know if they make them as their ordered, or have some on inventory. I was starting to wonder when it would get here, was going to call today, but it showed up yesterday.

 

I got fed up with looking for this last plate on earth and took it to the transmission shop that informed me about the problem in the first place. His first quote was around $1,000 for that job and a bunch of other tear down inspections.
Later, We agreed on $450 for the reinforcement(part and labor), new clutch-set, seals and install my already bought master and slave. Plus a few extras he promised, but who knows... Anyhow, I just hope this takes care of that worry for a long, long while.

I hope your battle with the bolts goes well and thanks for the reply... And thanks to the other fellows too.

 

I've gotten no reply yet either.....

 

I'm not going to mention the company name, but I finally got my truck back from their "repair"(10 days) on the issue I mentioned in post #64.
New: HD clutch set, Master cylinder, Slave.

It seems a total hack, some things worse than before and louder than usual.

I'm about to go out and see if I notice anything & look it over, but I wanted to first ask about my stick shift.
- It don't seem to easily move back and forth in the neutral position. More of a find the sweet spot diagonally.
- Basically it doesn't have the same pattern as before.

I would appreciate some advice on a few things to check after a clutch job of this sort, because I'm worried it's completely wrong.

 

I'm not sure what you mean "louder"?
Maybe they didn't put back both layers of foam rubber under the boot while they R&R the shifter?

As for hard to find neutral, the ZF5 stick just bolts to a stub on top so I doubt there is a problem internally.
If it was a T-19 or New Process I could see where the 'finger' might not be seated properly.

Perhaps your new 'HD clutch' is dragging a little?
That might cause it to be difficult to engage gears, but once in neutral it is only pushing selector forks around on the rails.
I don't see how this could change the slop.

 

It looks like factory ZF5 stick. I just went out to see what my amateur knowledge could eyeball. From underneath and at passenger side top of fly-wheel. I noticed a bolt missing, one not all the way in and a gap between transmission and starter.

The fly-wheel housing cover was missing(maybe the noise issue there?) However, It wasn't completely great before, but now it's gone.

And, about the shifting scenario... I seem to have to put it in 3rd gear and then i'm able to get it down in neutral (all while clutch is pressed), Kinda as if the gear pattern on a diagram, was turned a hair counter clock wise.< Maybe not all that drastic as exampled, but neutral for instance.

You might have pin pointed the culprit, when you mention it dragging a little. That is a good description of what sounds logically wrong.

Thanks for the advice on what step to check next.
I'm going to go out and wrestle with the bolts.

 

By "flywheel housing cover" do you mean the spacer plate that is supposed to locate the starter and act as a dust shield where the bellhousing is cut back at the bottom?

That plate doesn't cover the flywheel, it has to go on before the flywheel is installed.
If they left bolts out/loose, I hope they at least loctited and properly torqued the flywheel bolts to the crank...

These external slaves are tough to bleed.
Often the bubbles work their way out with just a little bit of driving.

 

Loose/missing bolts, parts not put back on, screams of someone not doing the job right.
I'd take it back, and make them correct these items at the very least. Doubt I would ever go back for anything else.
I agree with Jim. If they had the flywheel off, hopefully they got those bolts properly torqued, and didn't leave any loose or missing......
I am a mechanic, and I truly hate the hacks that pretend to be one.......

 

I'm NOT a mechanic, and I still hate hacks.
I may spend way too much time doing things "right", but I could R&R that flywheel/clutch/slave in under six hours with a lift.
Ten days seems way too much time unless they didn't start until the ninth.
Leaving parts out/loose is inexcusable.

 

I'm not sure if this particular part I'm saying has to go on before the flywheel, but yes, I'd imagine it is the dust shield. I can see the bottom portion of the flywheel and part of the new clutch. I'm almost positive there was a cover on when I took it to them, but it needed a bolt or two and maybe a type of gasket.

 

Doesn't look very easy to make.

 

0bucki0,
Yeah, you shouldn't be able to see the bottom of the flywheel.
There are two small bolts that hold the lower lip to the bellhousing.
The dust plate hangs on the block dowels before the flywheel goes on, and is sandwiched by the bell when everything is tight.
Perhaps MOST important is that it locates the starter.
If your starter fails this is the likely cause.

 

I'm kinda afraid to take it back, especially because I didn't pay for it yet(other than the parts). Some credit company they ran approved me for a loan just shy of the labor amount. I asked about the bill when I picked my truck up(before test driving) and was told I owed nothing. Some of the previous problems seem fixed. It goes in reverse real nice, clutch pedal don't stick. However, I have the old parts, and they don't look bad at all. Plus, I seen a Pilot/throwout bearing(smallest part) still in the baggie, which looked new, but not definite.

I can't get ahold of a couple of people to look at it, so I'm thanking you guys for helping me with the questions and probabilities.