1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Stock wheels for 1956 F100 - Hub centric, backspacing offset, diameter and width?

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  #16  
Old 03-19-2011, 07:53 PM
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If you want to try a neutral or slightly positive offset that'd be no problem. There's I'm sure a gazillion wheels that would get you there if they aren't too wide. But you were talking about a 7" wheel, and having no room for the tire. If a 5" wheel had .62" of positive offset, and you were trying to add 2" of width, going with a slight amount of negative offset would seem reasonable. That .187" is only 3/16". So that plus the .62" yields a little more than 3/4" movement out from what would be the stock centerline, but still using the rear end that's in the truck.

The piece of this that nobody can help you with yet is the part about you wanting to put in some different rear end to move your wheel mounting surfaces (WMSs) out closer to stock. If that's the direction you want to go, you'll need to hear from one of the dark side guys to identify a good donor, and to figure out what WMS to WMS measurements you want to achieve.

Your WIFE has already put the hubs and wheels back on?? Jez, I can just see my........oh never mind. Stu
 
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jbontke
I measured the hubs I have and they are 2.726910828 inches. I measured the area closest to the drum. I will take pics tomorrow, I have had too many coronas. What are the real benefits of an explorer rear axel? Its 2" more narrow than the stock 61" rear axel. I am getting an explorer for an engine/trans swap an would have the 8.8 if needed.

I measure the bolt circle just as described here: MRW - How to measure bolt pattern
You must have some completely different front setup than stock. (I hate to say it, but it sounds like it might be GM)

Explorer rear ends have been used because they are cheap and easy to find, not as heavy as 9"ers, and if you go MII on the front, then you have matching wheel BC. Plus you can get all kinds of low ratios, disc brakes on some, etc. The narrow axle is made up with offset on the wheels.
 
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:54 PM
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Here is the hub:


 
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:45 PM
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  #20  
Old 03-20-2011, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jbontke
Here is the hub:

That's sure enough stock Ford!
 
  #21  
Old 03-21-2011, 07:38 AM
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4tl8ford - Thanks for the data, that is what I need.

albuqf1 - When I first took the rum off i was thinking that it looked like Swiss cheese with all of the holes in it. It never dawned on me that the hubs were redrilled for 4.5 bolt pattern. But it works. The only kicker is that a passenger car steel wheel hub hole is too small for the stock F100 hub. So it looks like another trip to the machine shop.
 
  #22  
Old 03-21-2011, 07:53 AM
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The source of Dick's post is the Old Car Manual Project. If you want to see it with the offset figures included (since that'll be a concern to you), and for all makes and models, below is the link. Why the link says it's a Packard brochure I don't know, but it comes up as the 1964 Motor Wheel catalog. Stu

1939 Packard Brochure - The Old Car Manual Project
 
  #23  
Old 03-21-2011, 03:51 PM
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Thanks for the link Stu.
 
  #24  
Old 03-21-2011, 05:00 PM
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If you're looking for opinions, I'd say unless you are going for a 100-point resto, convert to disc brakes on front and your troubles will be over. You'll have the 4.5" BC with smaller center hub and have your choice of more wheels. Likely much cheaper too.
 
  #25  
Old 03-21-2011, 07:23 PM
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At some point I plan to convert to disc. For now I just want to get the truck drivable. I don't feel like forking out $800 for a front disc conversion just yet. I have plenty of other issues... Like a seized Buick 350/ turbo 400 sitting in the engine bay.
 
  #26  
Old 03-22-2011, 01:57 PM
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Picked up a 72 9" with a 5x5 bolt pattern. Looks like I am taking that to the machine shop to be drilled for 5x4.5 as well.
 
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