Last weekend I noticed dry rot on the balding little 215-75-15 no-name brand tires the PO had installed eons ago on my '86 F150 (4x2, SWB). I took this as a good reason to get new, bigger and better tires! And if new tires, I reasoned, why not new front coil springs as well? I wanted new coils because my truck has a really drooped nose, worse even than other like-model trucks I've seen. I think the front end was at least 2 full inches lower than the rear, and I wanted to raise it just a bit to give the truck a more level look.

I'm conservative, so for tires I chose a very modest increase in size: LT235-75-15's (BF Goodrich All-terrain TA's). For coil springs, I searched this forum extensively and, based on what I learned, I decided on Moog 822 springs. I checked rockauto and was happy to see that not only were Moog 822 springs available - but they were *exactly* what was recommended for my truck according to rockauto (heavy duty replacement springs for '86 F150, 4.9L 4x2 SWB with AC). I figured they would probably raise my front end a bit, maybe an inch or so, just by being new. Perfect, I thought. Here are the specs for the springs I bought:

Spring # CC822
Inside Diameter 4.000
Bar Diameter 0.718
Install Height 13.00
Load rate (lbs) 1230
Spring Rate (Lbs/in.) 366
Free Height 16.38
End Type pigtail ends

Springs in hand, I went to my friendly locally-owned auto repair shop where trucks like ours aren't viewed as dinosaurs from a bygone era. They already had my tires waiting (I had called ahead).

The springs went on fine, no problem, but when my truck was lowered back onto the ground, the front end is now ~1/4 - 1/2 " higher than the rear !! Furthermore, my front tires are cambered in at the bottom, like this \.../ I think. Almost 3 degrees off from alignment, according to the mechanic. Furthermore, alignment will now apparently require some kind of special bushings that I know nothing about and that my mechanic has to order special, if he can find the right ones. But he thinks the front end will come down a little once the camber is fixed and the springs "settle". I kind of doubt this, as a pessimist).

I'm trying to decide what to do and have some questions for you guys who know far more than I on such matters:

1) did I pick the wrong springs ( = rockauto is dead wrong on their website)?

2) What are these "special bushings" my mechanic wants to find, and are they a bad idea? I don't want any aftermarket rig-jobs on my truck, nothing that will cause handling and repair problems down the road.

3) Do new coil springs like these Moogs "settle" in, e.g. become a little more compressed in a reasonable amount of time?

Thanks, any advice you may have to offer is greatly appreciated. If this is all nothing to be worried about, then I'd love to hear it. I think my intentions were simple and modest, but it isn't turning out to be a simple matter.

 

The camber was off on my stock springs after my truck sat 5 years, it leveled itself out after a month or so of driving though.

 

\..../ will happen when jacking it up, this will correct itself after driving some. Happens when
you drive in reverse, too.

 

The springs *may* settle a bit after a couple years, but don't count on it. I've got the same ones under the front of my truck, been under there for ~3 years. As of yesterday, the front is 1" lower than the rear, BUT I have 235/75-15 fronts, and 31x10.50-15 rears. This gives me an extra ~3/4" in the rear, since most 235's are ~29" tall, and 31's range from 30.5-31.5" tall. According to BFG, mine are 30.7".
The camber bushings are already installed on your truck, but they are *most likely* not the correct ones for the needed adjustment. Just be happy that you have the option of camber bushings. My truck is an 80, so it's got king pins. The only camber adjustment on this style I-beam is bending. I'm still running with the camber out of whack.
Might solve this issue by going a different route, swap the 300 for a 6.9L IDI. That oughta squish them dern springs down where they need to be.......

That said, I believe the CC820 springs would have been a better choice, for me.

 

Just thought I'd post an "ending" to this thread.

I ended up returning the Moog cc822 springs and got Moog cc820 springs instead. I'm quite happy with this choice - the 820's still lifted my front end, but not to the point where it was higher than the rear end. My truck sits *almost* level now, with the nose-end just a little bit down. I wanted the nose a tiny bit lower, so that when the bed is loaded the truck is level.

Plus the 820 springs only required +/- 1 degree camber bushings (Moog part #K8367) to correct the camber. This was in contrast to the 822 springs, which would have require +/- 3 degree bushings to correct (hard to find).

Front suspension is a bit stiffer but in a good way. Thanks for all your help!

 

Thanks for the update.

I still kinda wish I had returned mine and swapped for the 820's. Prolly way too late now, been 3 years.......

 

I just did this myself a couple of weeks ago. The CC822 springs are for trucks with A/C and are Heavy Duty springs. The CC820 are for trucks with A/C but are stock replacement. Both are progress rate springs. I went with the CC820 and they raised the front just a little because they are new and replace springs that are 25yo.

I got this info from Moog. I have the 1 degree cams and the tire shop was able to align my front.

 

Thanks.
Having looked at both springs and compared them side by side, I can say they have the same wire thickness and coil distance, but the 822's are a bit longer.
I think the "Heavy Duty" CC822's might be more appropriate if you have a winch bumper, snowplow, or other heavy front end situation.

 

Even after 3 years, my truck still sits almost as high in the front as the back, and I have bigger/taller rears tire. The front is ~1" lower than the rear, and the rear tires are ~1.5" taller, which accounts for 3/4".

It takes more than 300lbs hanging on the front bumper to squat it down enough to get back to 0 camber. I don't know exactly how much more weight it would take, I ran out of room for people on the bumper at just over 300lbs......
Like I said before, might have to drop in a 6.9/73L IDI diesel to mash these springs down enough to get back to a liveable camber angle and front ride height. That's one of the few engines that outweigh the big 6. It's a swap I would like to do someday, once the 300 is worn out, but that may take a long time.......

 

Wow. Seems like Moog should change its advertising then. The 822 seems to be just too much spring for most applications!

Thanks for all you info and advice on this Erik, I appreciate it.

 

I'm sure the 822 springs would be better suited under a 4x4, or supercab. Big block and heavy front bumper/winch would also be pretty much needed as well. Combine all 4, and they would be perfect.......

 

I had them once also...hated them! Found a low mileage 4*2 to pull the springs from and haven't looked back. I used those beasts for a couple of years, then torched them to drop the front end (collapsing the first couple of coils).

Good job on the switch.

Kenny

 

OK, I finally parked my truck on a level concrete surface and measured with a tape measure: my truck is actually now completely level with full gas tanks. So I can report that, at least for me, Mood CC820 springs worked great: they leveled my front end with the back end, just like "leveling spring" kits are supposed to do.

My truck just looks awesome to me now, with its level body and brand new bigger deep tread tires! It's like a different truck, I love it!

 

Pictures, Pictures, Pictures. Before and after, if you can.

 

Speaking of pics, maybe I can get a couple this afternoon. I got a before pic I'll post at the same time.

Just for reference, I have ~5" gap between the fender lip and front tire, which is a 235/75-15. Used to be about 2-3" less. The rear is ~3", with a 31x10.50-15.