Cononski-the motor only has 67,000 miles so i guess uve talked me out of it!
also,
your very knowledgable and i was wondering what gears you would recommend with my 351w E4od and 33s... i never really go over 60mph
ive done some research and im almost set on 4.10s but id like a little more "gear" i guess over stock

 

Yeah get 4.10's, that won't quite get you all the way back to the stock final drive ratio but the 5.8 won't have any problem pulling it. Also don't forget to recalibrate the speedo or you'll be pushing the truck way faster than you think.

 

sounds good! i can run my stock carrier with "thick" gears and save some green too...

ha i have all these parts in my shopping cart, but i cant commit to checking out

thanks again

 

ok now i have some Q's upon some more research
if i get the crane 444232 cam and 1.7 rockers what will the specs be conanski? or anyone else that knows? im just not sure how to do the math.

and also if i run gt40's like BRAY09, could i get a fuel pressure regulator and turn up the fuel pressure. and run pacesetter LT's? idk if the ports are different
also....
a loooonnnngggg ago myth i have always heard is if i run open headers it will burn up my valves. is this true?

 

The GT40's use the same manifold/headers as the stock heads so yes to the LT question. I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator that i bumped up the pressure to about 40-42 psi at idle. I really dont need it this high as i do not really spin the motor past 35-4000 rpms.

If you do go this route, i would suggest getting this so you can keep an eye on the fuel pressure and where you have it set at. the adapter goes in the schrader valve port on the fuel rail and has 2 extra 1/8" NPT fittings so you can run a fuel pressure gague in the cab or something.

I believe the lift was under 0.500 or something or other. someone will chime in with what it is. I used stock springs and they are only good to about 0.500 lift and i have not had a problem so i know it is under that.

 

thanks BRay09. i know for a fact that im buying pacesetter LT's and the crane 444232 cam, and maybe the 1.7 rockers. do you think i should take they time to swap the gt40s? and then have to mess with the fuel pressure... do you think its worth the hp gains over just cam/headers?

 

The only time I see I may have to mess with the fuel pressure is when the motor gets over 35-4000 rpms. The motor will still make power up there But it leans out some, probably more than it should. I would put the gt40s on it

Fwiw, I swapped the heads back to stock e7 last year because I thought I was selling the truck and let me tell you, I regret it. Still is more powerful over stock but there is really no comparison.

 

gotcha.. i just dont know if its worth all that since its going in my 4x4... unless i could definitely keep up with some obs powerstrokes

 

The only way you'd ever keep up with a powerstroke is with a powerstroke. Or a high dollar 351w or 460. The motor you are building will probably put out as much if not more HP than an idi 6.9l or non turbo 7.3. The 460 on the other hand can probably go hand in hand with the best of em though. But you'd never get the mileage with the gas motors with tht much power vs the powerstrokes.

I have the motor i built in my 89 4x4 F250. I went with a rebuilt .040 over 351w block with the 1.7rr in GT40 heads, crane 444232 cam and lifter set and a set of flowtech longtube headers with cherrybomb extreme dual exhaust (no cat either). May have stated that already. But mine is definatly pushing the limits of the SD set up, but its a great motor now (even before the build) and i wouldn't go back on my decisions. Even for a minute. It'll smoke the tires (stock) from a stand still and not even have to apply break. I pull with it sometimes here at the county fair and everyone askes if i have a 460

 

i hear you. but obs 7.3 powerstrokes dont make as much power stock as a superduty. plus they weigh at least 3000 more lbs than me. i know they have loaaaaddddsss of torque but im pretty sure i could keep up with a stock pre-99 powerstroke. idk about one with a chip/injectors but a completely stock powerstoke vs. 351w gt40s crane 444232, 1.7 rockers.... only one way to find out i guess. haha


yea im really dreading the fact that i have sd... almost enough to carb and stroke the **** out of the 351w. or just sell it with the 5.0 and get me a diesel. i wanted to go 4bt (4 cylinder cummins) in the f150 but its too much work/$$ to keep an e4od in it.

 

@ Staveys150 I am actually planning on doing mostly the same to my 92 F150 4x4 also. I am currently in the process of getting a 351w to do the swap, should have it within the week. YAY! I won't be home for a few months yet, so I might check back in at that time and see how your project is going.

Have you read the "Project Fiery Redhead" by Four Wheeler? There are 14 parts to this story... yes 14 parts. Get online and read them, good for motivation.

@ BRay09 You are running true dual exhaust or a Y-pipe into single? having no cats doesn't cause any problems? What other sorts of things can be "bypassed" or eliminated?

If one cannot find a complete GT40 Intake for the 5.8, then what do you guys recommend... having the stock intake machined at a machine shop, or is there a different intake that is recommended?


(Not trying to sharp-shoot or hijack you Staveys150.)

Thanks

 

I am running a custom y-pipe into a magnaflow 2.5" DI to 3" Single out to a ehxhaust dump to a 3'' single in to a dual out muffler. Not having cats does not cause problems.

You can remove all the smog stuff off of the top of the motor and either remove or use the smog pump as an idler pully. Remove/cap off vacuum lines that arent needed and leave the TAB/TAD selinoids electronically plugged in.

 

You don't need a different intake to get gains from this motor, the stock intake flows a lot better than most people think and can be improved by opening up the port exits in the lower where they meet the heads. If you still want to "upgrade" the intake then look for an Edelbrock Performer(not the truck version) or it's copy the Professional Products Typhoon, they are actually a little better flowing than the GT40.

 

lmk how it goes! are you doing some mods to the 351w before swapping?

 

Originally I was just gonna put the Crane 444232 in it, new gaskets, and long tube headers. I was also going to go thru the trans with shift kit and would like a new torque converter. The other thing was the axles. A lot of guys recommend 4.10, I have been leaning towards 3.73 but they all tell me that If I am gonna do it then I should go all the way and have no regrets. I use my truck as a daily, city, highway, mud, snow, more mud, and work truck, and lots more mud. I am thinking that 3.73 would be good due to all the on-road driving but not sure maybe 4.10s.

My brother told me that you can safely bore up to .060 over with no problems and that the 351w is very rebuildable with lots of wall space.

I have a co-worker here who worked for twelve years in a machine shop who says to never stab a used engine into a vehicle without going through and rebuilding it first. Of course he recommends port/polish of everything especially heads. The engine I am getting has been sitting out for two years now, so not sure what condition it is in.

So now after reading your thread and with all the very in depth info from the other guys, I am probably going to do the same top side build as you and BRay09 plus new springs and possibly new fuel pump or regulator. I am gonna leave it as a Speed Density and see how she works. I don't know how much pain in butt it is to convert to MAF and if it would even be worth it. Hopefully the bottom side of the engine is in good condition, otherwise I might go all the way and get new bearings and what nots.

The price tag started at $300 and is quickly growing. The driveline is the main things I want to do on my truck (to start with). Eventually (not now... driveline first) I would like to recondition the frame rails and crossmembers and start replacing rotted bushings.
Farm Show Vol.34, No.4 "Spray Foam Strengthened Pickup Frame" This guy took his 89 Ranger frames and crossmembers and sand-blasted all the rust off, re-painted them, and then filled the inside of the rails with Great Stuff Polyurethane Foam Sealant. Wierd. He did this many years ago and said that there is still no rust, the truck is a lot stiffer, and he can haul more weight. So interesting to me that I might try that.
Before doing such a thing though, I would need to make up my mind if I am gonna do a suspension lift or not. I was reading that articles on the Fiery Redhead and really like the 4-inch lift kit they did and how they went through the TTB front end. It looks really nice.

Sorry, I get long winded and excited. Long story short is yes I am going to do work on the engine and trans and exhaust. then axles gears. the previous owner already put Warn hubs on so I don't need to do hubs, then suspension and steering. If I do lift the truck then I might go for a different size wheels... I am running 31x10.50-15s but would like something a little more narrow and maybe a little taller so that I can cut through mud and snow instead of float on top of it.
Everything is price dependant of course... so most of this dream sheet may not happen.
The engine trans and exhaust is a for sure deal right now though.