06 Ranger 2.3L starts hard cold
#1
06 Ranger 2.3L starts hard cold
Hi, first time here and have a question for you Ranger owners.
My 06 with 2.3 starts hard when it's cold at times. If I leave it sit overnight and in the morning it cranks over good but wont start unless I push the gas pedal down. It doesn't do it all of the time, it didn't act up today but may in the morning. Once it starts it runs great. Any ideas?
Thanks
My 06 with 2.3 starts hard when it's cold at times. If I leave it sit overnight and in the morning it cranks over good but wont start unless I push the gas pedal down. It doesn't do it all of the time, it didn't act up today but may in the morning. Once it starts it runs great. Any ideas?
Thanks
#3
Welcome to FTE.
Could be a number of things, so we need some more clues & as 03 MAZ B23 suggested, most autoparts stores will scan the computer for trouble codes at no cost, if the CEL is on, or your having problems.
You shouldn't have to mess with the accelerator to have it start. So if you have the CEL lit, which means computer trouble codes are stored, or pending trouble codes are stored, that might not have matured & turned the CEL on yet, they could provide good trouble shooting clues, so post All code Numbers found.
If you don't have any trouble codes stored in the computer, you'll need to do some more trouble shooting & give us some more clues.
From the symptoms you've posted so far, an acting out IAC = Idle Air Control, probably belongs on your suspect list, as it's a common problem part when it carbons up, or wears. If it's sticking & not opening on a cold start, it'll cause start problems. It's on the intake air tube, just ahead of the throttle body. One electrical connector & a couple of small bolts hold it on. So maybe pull & clean it with a plastic safe spray cleaner like CRC QD, or MAF sensor cleaner & see if things get better. Cleaning the IAC might not last, it didn't for me, but was a good trouble shooting step.
Or maybe it's a fuel pressure problem. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to test it, try cycling the ingnition switch from Off to Run 4-5 times, without cranking the engine. Then try cranking the engine & if it immediately starts & runs, suspect a fuel delivery problem, like low fuel pressure from a clogged fuel filter, or maybe a weak fuel pump, leaking fuel injectors, or maybe low voltage to the fuel pump from a faulty electrical connection, or low voltage from a weak cell in the battery. Most autoparts stores will do an electrical system check up & load test at no cost, so you could have them do that, when they scan the computer.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
Could be a number of things, so we need some more clues & as 03 MAZ B23 suggested, most autoparts stores will scan the computer for trouble codes at no cost, if the CEL is on, or your having problems.
You shouldn't have to mess with the accelerator to have it start. So if you have the CEL lit, which means computer trouble codes are stored, or pending trouble codes are stored, that might not have matured & turned the CEL on yet, they could provide good trouble shooting clues, so post All code Numbers found.
If you don't have any trouble codes stored in the computer, you'll need to do some more trouble shooting & give us some more clues.
From the symptoms you've posted so far, an acting out IAC = Idle Air Control, probably belongs on your suspect list, as it's a common problem part when it carbons up, or wears. If it's sticking & not opening on a cold start, it'll cause start problems. It's on the intake air tube, just ahead of the throttle body. One electrical connector & a couple of small bolts hold it on. So maybe pull & clean it with a plastic safe spray cleaner like CRC QD, or MAF sensor cleaner & see if things get better. Cleaning the IAC might not last, it didn't for me, but was a good trouble shooting step.
Or maybe it's a fuel pressure problem. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to test it, try cycling the ingnition switch from Off to Run 4-5 times, without cranking the engine. Then try cranking the engine & if it immediately starts & runs, suspect a fuel delivery problem, like low fuel pressure from a clogged fuel filter, or maybe a weak fuel pump, leaking fuel injectors, or maybe low voltage to the fuel pump from a faulty electrical connection, or low voltage from a weak cell in the battery. Most autoparts stores will do an electrical system check up & load test at no cost, so you could have them do that, when they scan the computer.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
#4
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jayellcowen
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
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04-18-2019 05:15 PM