warped brake drum no one cuts big truck??
#16
try your local international dealer, well around here they are cheaper anyway. I know they are high no matter what but there is no way to fix a warped drum.
if they cut it to round it will have to be rebalanced and that is more than a new drum!
easy way to check if it really is warped, "without a dial indicator" is to measure the drums inside diameter in a cross pattern with a framing square.
also to note if the groove around the ridge is more than 3/8" from the ridge surface to shoe contact point, and the dot checks you, you will see a big fine also the same fine for drum diameter.
you can try the truck bone yards to look for a decent used drum but those 8 lug md drums are hard to find because very few spec trucks that are odd from the fleet very rare to see them at all, they weren't popular.
if they cut it to round it will have to be rebalanced and that is more than a new drum!
easy way to check if it really is warped, "without a dial indicator" is to measure the drums inside diameter in a cross pattern with a framing square.
also to note if the groove around the ridge is more than 3/8" from the ridge surface to shoe contact point, and the dot checks you, you will see a big fine also the same fine for drum diameter.
you can try the truck bone yards to look for a decent used drum but those 8 lug md drums are hard to find because very few spec trucks that are odd from the fleet very rare to see them at all, they weren't popular.
#17
thats a little better answer but what is dot going to do?? pull my wheel and drum off and check?? lol and if your thinking those little holes that just for measuring clearing with feeler guage. it's only back brakes. 90% of brake power is up front. I think i'm just going to put it back on the way it is. brake pads are brand new.
Can i sand the warp out of the brake pads??ha ha!!
Can i sand the warp out of the brake pads??ha ha!!
#18
#19
#20
no sir, at least 60-80% "that's on juice brakes and air" of the braking power on trucks this size and up starts at the rear! remember the load brakes before not after always on big trucks! it sound like you going to spend that dough any way with a busted drum on one side, but check the bone yards you might get lucky, also if you have portable torch set up with rose bud, you might have saved that one drum by heating it and throwing cold water on it might have broke the rust bond to the hub.
fyi, if the drum won't come off that's a fine too, improper up keep or improper equipment or both if they wanna f you around! and that dot fine starts at around $1,500 and could get a lot worse real quick I've seen drivers whine and the more they do it the more they make it, LOL!
fyi, if the drum won't come off that's a fine too, improper up keep or improper equipment or both if they wanna f you around! and that dot fine starts at around $1,500 and could get a lot worse real quick I've seen drivers whine and the more they do it the more they make it, LOL!
#21
hard to manhandle a 90lb drum. last i heard hearting then cooling fast shrinks or crack stuff.
brake spring boke stretched cause pad to act like wedge i got it moving but it would come off 1/3 then get stuck. mayb if i had someone help me prop the pad up. but oh well.
i posted these before but u can see the pads are like new. spring stretched and let one side of bottom pad hang down jamming up the drum and prevented it from coming off. i was wacking it with a hammer in different places and spinning the drum. then i noticed a fine crack from hitting it. so i went ahead and busted it off.
brake spring boke stretched cause pad to act like wedge i got it moving but it would come off 1/3 then get stuck. mayb if i had someone help me prop the pad up. but oh well.
i posted these before but u can see the pads are like new. spring stretched and let one side of bottom pad hang down jamming up the drum and prevented it from coming off. i was wacking it with a hammer in different places and spinning the drum. then i noticed a fine crack from hitting it. so i went ahead and busted it off.
#22
#23
it's the steam effect heat makes the rust break bond water helps push the rust out. and you don't heat it red hot, just where the drum and hub meet then hit it with the water it won't crack the drum I have done it on many a stubborn truck. yeah broken spring get ya every time though!
the drum looks ok to be turned from that angle take a tread depth gauge and check the shoe wear surface to the outer ridge depth. and use the framing square trick if you do not have a dial indicator rig. to check for out of round or egg shape/warping also check for the hair line cracks in the drum as long as they do not go all the way across and it's not out of round and as long as the drum wear depth is not more than 5/32 it is serviceable, just when the shoes are gone the drum is too. but the code book says 3/32 but if the drum is serviceable see above I say why change it now.
yep the more they weigh the more they have turn smoothly i.e. balance, drums on big trucks just like tires have heavy sides and light sides even on one tons the drum will have balance holes drilled in it, but I was talking about trying to round an egg shaped drum it would be off balance afterwords.
as for getting the drum turned most shops won't they want that new drum money plus most shops do not have the machining capabilities they once did sad to say but mechanics have been demoted from engineers to tune up's oil change and brake job parts replacement. very few i ever worked with could trouble shoot any thing, and always had more blots still left in the pan than on the truck, LOL.
looks like you just need a used drum to match the busted one and a couple of new hard ware kits, or just go ahead and do the whole thing, your buck.
before I busted my back when an eaton 10spd"about 2000+lbs. of tranny" fell off a loose jack "left by the night shift, where I (once) worked" I used to do curls with the rear drums on break ah to be in good health again!
the drum looks ok to be turned from that angle take a tread depth gauge and check the shoe wear surface to the outer ridge depth. and use the framing square trick if you do not have a dial indicator rig. to check for out of round or egg shape/warping also check for the hair line cracks in the drum as long as they do not go all the way across and it's not out of round and as long as the drum wear depth is not more than 5/32 it is serviceable, just when the shoes are gone the drum is too. but the code book says 3/32 but if the drum is serviceable see above I say why change it now.
yep the more they weigh the more they have turn smoothly i.e. balance, drums on big trucks just like tires have heavy sides and light sides even on one tons the drum will have balance holes drilled in it, but I was talking about trying to round an egg shaped drum it would be off balance afterwords.
as for getting the drum turned most shops won't they want that new drum money plus most shops do not have the machining capabilities they once did sad to say but mechanics have been demoted from engineers to tune up's oil change and brake job parts replacement. very few i ever worked with could trouble shoot any thing, and always had more blots still left in the pan than on the truck, LOL.
looks like you just need a used drum to match the busted one and a couple of new hard ware kits, or just go ahead and do the whole thing, your buck.
before I busted my back when an eaton 10spd"about 2000+lbs. of tranny" fell off a loose jack "left by the night shift, where I (once) worked" I used to do curls with the rear drums on break ah to be in good health again!
#24
damn that sucks.i hope u got compensated. i bought a new drum for the busted one it was $220. anyway to reuse the pads?? ha ha. this stuff adds up $220 for a drum. $75 for pads. girling wheel cylinder $350 or loaded backing plate is $$$$$
i bought the truck not running. missing front right caliper, master cylinder was missing, somone replace the engine because original cummins engines say ford on the tag. this one just says cummins
i bought the truck not running. missing front right caliper, master cylinder was missing, somone replace the engine because original cummins engines say ford on the tag. this one just says cummins
#25
good luck with it girling brakes suck expensive and hard to work on, what model cummins is it? i've got a '47 2 1/2 ton with the 'ol flatty and can't find it grind 4spd i just re did the whole brake system with a remote reservoir dual master cylinder and 1/4" stainless lines and tube nuts from summit. yeah one of the moments when your life goes before the eye, nope just a few blown out discs and a few inches shorter on a bad day.
#27
You have found out how expensive the Ford brakes are
Lucas Girling brakes are the worst schit on the planet, only Ford used it and it is very very expensive to repair. You can barely get parts for it now.
The biggest problem you can't change the axle out from a International that uses standard juice brakes with wheel cylinders because you won't have a emergency brake.
Lucas Girling brakes are the worst schit on the planet, only Ford used it and it is very very expensive to repair. You can barely get parts for it now.
The biggest problem you can't change the axle out from a International that uses standard juice brakes with wheel cylinders because you won't have a emergency brake.
#28
#29
You are really stuck with the problem, it plagues many people with the older F Series Fords. A rear axle out of a Freightliner FL60 Lowpro should work aswell if it has juice brakes.
#30
well i imagine i could take the e brake set up out of the international and install it in the ford?? i don't see why not?? i imagine the e brake on a IH must have a hydraulic master cylinder??? i think i saw a pic of the IH e brake.it is on the yoke of the rear end.
i had an old nissan ud and still have a old isuzu nrr and they had brake on drive shaft and it worked off a cable.
i had an old nissan ud and still have a old isuzu nrr and they had brake on drive shaft and it worked off a cable.