Hi,
I posted this once before.I have a fuel leak and it's dripping on the valve cover. But have found that I have metal tubes and only one rubber tube connecting cylinders 1 and 3. It looks like the rubber tube was cobbed together poorly with 4 band clamps on the last tube towards the front for cylinders 1 and 3, it is leaking at cylinder 1. Also the tube is 1/4 inch instead of 3/16 inch as I have been advised. The metal tubes are tight and not leaking. I have ordered a kit from Rock Auto and am pleased that they had exactly what I need but I am confused. Everyone was telling me about rubber tubes when mine are metal. I will have lots of extra tubes I guess, unless I have really screwed up and orederd the wrong thing entirely. Kit is pictured with instructions below.Can I get away with using the hose from the kit temporarily and do I have to do all the steps they spell out? Also it's incredibly hard starting and needs a bit of starting fluid after sitting for a few days. This is bad. Could it be related ? Thank you. Joe

<TABLE class=text border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="95%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top rowSpan=2 width=301>Fourteen Step Reconditioning Process

• Clean & degrease injector
• Resistance test
• Remove external components
• Ultrasonically clean
• Reverse / Back Flush
• Spray pattern test
• Leak down test
• Flow rate test
• Polish injector
• Clear-coat injector
• Lubricate injector
• Install new components
• Package and seal injector
• Final inspection

Core Return Policy
</TD><TD vAlign=top width=890>
******** language=javascript1.1> document.write('');*********> </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width=890>Why you should replace all of your injectors at the same time.
All injectors receive the same signal from the ECU to either "open" or "close", and for how long to stay open. If you have a 6cyl vehicle and all the injectors are flowing different amounts of fuel, some cylinders will be running lean and some may be running too rich because they are getting one generic signal to all injectors. So.... If all 6 injectors are cleaned and flow tested to OEM specifications, they are going to be flowing the same amount of fuel. When the ECU tells the injectors to open or close, and for how long, then the engine and each cylinder is going to receive the correct amount of fuel because all 6 injectors are flowing the same amount of fuel.
On the contrary....If one injector is replaced (which flows to OEM specs) and the other 5 injectors are dirty, restricted, or just flowing a different amount than the "clean" one, you may get the same condition as described in the first scenario above. The remanufactured injector may be performing correctly, but it may not necessarily solve the problem.
For optimum performance and efficiency, all injectors must flow the same amount of fuel, and have good atomization of the fuel droplets.
</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width=301>

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>







<TABLE class=text border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="95%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top rowSpan=2 width=301>Fourteen Step Reconditioning Process

• Clean & degrease injector
• Resistance test
• Remove external components
• Ultrasonically clean
• Reverse / Back Flush
• Spray pattern test
• Leak down test
• Flow rate test
• Polish injector
• Clear-coat injector
• Lubricate injector
• Install new components
• Package and seal injector
• Final inspection

Core Return Policy

</TD><TD vAlign=top width=890>
******** language=javascript1.1> document.write('');*********>
</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width=890>Why you should replace all of your injectors at the same time.
All injectors receive the same signal from the ECU to either "open" or "close", and for how long to stay open. If you have a 6cyl vehicle and all the injectors are flowing different amounts of fuel, some cylinders will be running lean and some may be running too rich because they are getting one generic signal to all injectors. So.... If all 6 injectors are cleaned and flow tested to OEM specifications, they are going to be flowing the same amount of fuel. When the ECU tells the injectors to open or close, and for how long, then the engine and each cylinder is going to receive the correct amount of fuel because all 6 injectors are flowing the same amount of fuel.
On the contrary....If one injector is replaced (which flows to OEM specs) and the other 5 injectors are dirty, restricted, or just flowing a different amount than the "clean" one, you may get the same condition as described in the first scenario above. The remanufactured injector may be performing correctly, but it may not necessarily solve the problem.
For optimum performance and efficiency, all injectors must flow the same amount of fuel, and have good atomization of the fuel droplets.

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width=301>


</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

The picture of the kit should be correct for your application (83 with 6.9L). However, all that text there is completely irrelevant and has to do with an electrically controlled engine. Our engines are completely mechanical.

The return lines should be rubber lines like in the picture, connecting to the plastic caps. The older engines (6.9 and early 7.3) used 3/16" lines and caps as in the picture. Later 7.3L engines used 1/4" line and caps of a slightly different design with offset connections for the lines.

A picture of your setup would help us tremendously. It sounds like either you're in the place looking for help, or someone really didn't know what they were doing with that engine. There are many good posts on here about the correct way to fix return lines.

 

Hi,
Thank you.
Should I take out the metal tubes and replace them with the rubber ones in the kit that I ordered? Why are there metal tubes instead of rubber ones to begin with?
(I wonder if it is really hard starting because of the metal tubes,instead of rubber tubes).
I don't have a camera that I can easily take a picture of the thing,-film only. I tried in lieu of this to describe what I saw and was surprised by as precisely as I could. Could these metal tubes be in any way original equipment? I now have my doubts, but why would someone go to the trouble of putting in metal tubes if rubber ones were easier and less expensive? It doesn't make sense. Now I am really puzzled,but grateful for the help and apologize for the lack of a picture. Help!
Joe

 

Hi,
I just called a good local diesel shop and talked to one of the guys. He said these return lines should be 3/16 inch rubber and can't fathom where the metal lines came from. He said to just take the metal lines off and replace them with the rubber ones, and to lubricate the T's and o rings. This sounds right to me. I don't have a clue about the metal return lines and neither did he so I will try to proceed with caution. I never did this before but am going to do all the work on my truck from now on as suggested by the members of this forum. If there are suggetions or comments I would appreciate them. Thanks. Joe

 

You can see some good images of the setup in the following pictures (from another member! Thanks Charleslincoln!)

6.9L Injector Leak2 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

6.9L Injector Top | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

In this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ctor-leak.html the original poster thought the return lines were steel as well put they ended up just looking the part (painted rubber) His (pictured in the above links) was an original equipment setup as I suspect maybe yours is. As you said, why would anyone do those with steel lines?

And yes, the rubber line that came with the kit is what is supposed to be there!

 

Also, check out the stickied threads at the top of the forum about the glow plug system. Hard starts can be a combination of many factors. Leaking returns lines are one piece of the puzzle, glow plugs are another important piece. Especially in cold climates.

Cruickie, thats a good point about the lines. Stock should be painted gray like the rest of the engine, and they do sorta look like metal if you go by the color.