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Hello I'm new to this whole site stuff . Here is my issue with my 06 ford f350 king ranch will not start . my truck has a compustar remote start on it along with mods done to it its studded n deleted n has the electric stock fan removed and has the mechanical fan on it with bullet water pump KC stage 2 turbo n injectors n air ride suspension n winch on front . this is what happened I remote started my truck when getting to leave work n struck started fine drove home about 40 minutes n shut off truck came out the next morning and tried to remote start truck n it sounded very weak so I jumped in truck n put key in n foot on brake so it did not attempt to try auto starting again . when I turned the key is clicked at starter solonid and I hooked up my jumper pack to my batteries that are only 2 months old n truvk clicked again I checked connections and tried a third time to start it and got no clicking or anything so I figured it was starter I removed the starter n it had corrosion on one terminal n i took the entire starter apart n cleaned it out n reassembled it and bench tested starter n it worked perfectly put it back in truvk n turned key and truck started fine I turned it off after 20 minutes n restarted truck n it started I did this about 5 times over 2 hours n i left truvk at home n tried to start the truck 3 days later and I got nothing at all all gauges work just no crank . I went and bought a brand new ford motercraft starter for 6.7 diesel n installed it n after I installed it tried turning key to start n got nothing at all i checked all fuses n relays and seem good checked starter relay n i got power where I should n have 12 volts to side of relay when turning key but dont seem to be getting ground I jumped starter at passengerside battery from yellow / blue wire n truck starts so I drove it to get fuel n on my way back my trans temp was higher then normal n speedometer stop working n tow/ haul light startred flashing when I got home it started flashing pullimg into drive way . I'm lost where to look or check I looked at wiring for fan n egr n all look good no breaks or cuts in wiring n im pulling my hair out trying to figure out whats wrong and I looked on internet n been on this site several times looking at other members post n i just hope someone can help me with this issue that im having and I do greatly appreciate any and all help n advise that anybody can give to help me out I give you all thanks n appreciation in advance to everyone
I dont have a scan gauge tool to check codes but with my live wire its showed trans temp was -66 replaced the trans temp sensor and did complete transmission fluid.changd n. Checked battery cables on driver side n replaced the fuseable links cuz they we're we're all corroded in had oxidation all over them sorry place them I checked all the other wiring checked the fusible links on a passenger side and I got codes for the trans temperature and Rain Rain selector out of out of range or something like that but ill check codes with my act live wire tuner n ill let you know n post them I did order another pcm on Tuesday just waiting for it to get delivered n its programmed to what my orginal pcm numbers exactly so I hope that fixes issue with starting with key what else could or should i check sir
SCT is a VERY poor code reader. IMO using it for troubleshooting is a waste of time.
Get ForSCan or Torque pro, otherwise all you will get for help will be guesses.
PCM's rarely go bad. Good chance you wasted money there.
You could have a bad transmission range sensor, but that is why I asked the "backup lights" question. An answer would help us help you .................
I've been busy working and did not get to work on my truck till today and i fixed all grounds under hood by checking and removing them all cleaned them and reinstalled them and I put a new pcm that was programmed to my vin n code off my old pcm and I installed it and my truck still will not crank over with key and i believe I did check the correct ground grounds at the pcm pin 10 n pin 11 black / white strio wire and i had ground I checked continuity from thoes pins to negative battery cable and i got continuity. I was not sure about reference voltage at fan connection if I had to have truck running or just have the key on ? I tried starting my truck n nothing but all gauges work and when i put in reverse the light come on and work I even tried starting in neutral and i get nothing at all .im at a total loss now dont know what to look for or where to go from here if anybody has and idea or had issues like this n may know please let me know I greatly appreciate it very much .i don't know why pcm will not give the ground for starter relay im lost I hope someone can help me or point me in the right direction to go next ...btw if I jumper the starter with the wire by blower motor it starts right up n runs fine just will not crank or turn over with key
The fan "reference voltage" is 12 volts. It is provided with the key on (key in the "run" position). It is the Brown wire with Light Green stripe at the fan connector. It comes from PCM connector 1381c. Power to run the fan comes through the red wire and that is fed from the same fuse that the PCM draws power from (fuse 2.22). Supplied from the CJB.
You never posted any code numbers - even from the SCT. Is your OBDII port getting data from the PCM?
I assume you are talking about C1381a (left plug) when you checked the PCM ground circuit pins 10 and 11. Since there are 3 connectors, please always specify which connector when you talk about pin numbers (I just hate assuming things).
When I talked about the PCM ground, I wasn't talking about the control module ground circuit, but with your described electrical wiring issues, checking these grounds was a good idea.
ForScan codes might pick up a sensor or actuator that is possibly dragging down your PCM power (so that it does not apply the necessary grounds), so you really need a good troubleshooting tool. Good troubleshooting should help avoid spending more money unnecessarily.
That said, you can still do some tests without ForScan to prove or disprove that the PCM ground is involved. Clearly your starter is working, power cable is good, and the solenoid wire is good from the passenger battery to the starter.
So have you checked for voltage AND ground at the starter relay? Maybe the relay itself is an issue, or maybe the wiring from the relay to the starter connector is an issue? Could also be the wiring from the PCM.
The starter relay is #307 in the Central Junction Box (under the dash). Time to do a few tests:
Voltage (12v-13v) should be present on starter relay contact "30" at all times (from fuse 113).
Contact 85 should get voltage when the key is turned to start (comes from fuse 31 - 15A). This is the White wire with Pink stripe.
Contact 86 is the PCM applied ground when the key is turned to start. This is the Pink wire
The starter relay control wires come to the CJB at connector C270f (power to pin 85) and connector C270f (ground to pin 86).
I can post a diagram to show the CJB connectors if you need it.
The starter relay ground comes from the PCM connector C1381a (left plug), pin #4 - Pink wire
Good afternoon sir yes I am sorry i left out some details about what i posted sir . you are correct when you said i checked plug (A) at pin 10 - 11 and it had ground and ill check reference voltage at the fan plug as you described I did check the 307 relay I do have power at the pins you stated I should but im not getting the ground in that circut sir . I did not have any code info but I checked and codes I get are code for egr cause I have the truck deleted n studded and i get a code for. My glowplug module cause I purchased one from Napa and i think it was for an older powerstroke cause it does work I just think it was or not one for a cambus system to read data sir . the other thing is I have an ABS light and it was not on before all this happening the front wheel bearing assemblies are both only about 6 months old and n my speedometer worked and when the truck did not start with key I noticed the speedometer did not work I replaced the rear differential sensor and it still does not work . you said a scan gauge 2 would be helpful also sir ill go purchacse one today and check out if there are any other codes in the pcm and i can post them or what other scanner is pretty good that will help out with this. I just dont have 2500 to buy the FORD VCM3 MODULE N THEN THE PROGRAM LICENVECE AT THIS TIME SIR . I TRIED TO BUY ONE ABOUT 4 MONTHS AGO BUT THEY WERE ON BACK ORDER AT THE TIME OR ID HAVE ONE . ALSO I DID NOT MENTION THAT I CHANGED THE ELECTRICAL FAN CLUTCH ASSEMBLY ON TRUCK TO A MECHANICAL CLUTCH FAN SIR . ILL RUN TO AUTOZONE AND GET A SCANGAUGE 2 AND PIT IT ON MY TRUCK AND SEE WHAT CODES I CAN PULL FROM THE PCM ILL INSTALL MY ORGINAL PCM IN MY TRUCK TO SEE WHAT CODES ARE IN IT CAUSE AS I POSTED I PURCHASED A NEW PCM AND AFTER EVERYTHING WHEN TRUCK STILL DID NOT START I TRIED MY NEW PCM MODULE TO SEE IF THE TRUCK WOULD START AND IT DID NOT START WITH THE KEY BUT IT STARTS IF I JUMPER THE 307 RELAY CIRCUT . SO IM RUNNING TO AUTO ZONE N BUY A SCAN GAUGE 2 NOW
I wouldn't recommend a scangauge2 for anything except watching engine parameters when driving. It is not a very good troubleshooting tool. That is why I recommend ForScan (full version for a Windows laptop) or ForScan Lite or Torque Pro. The full version is best IF you have the laptop to install it on. I don't know how in the world you picked a Scangauge recommendation out of what I posted. In fact I said that it was a POOR code reader.
If you re-read what I wrote, I also didn't recommend ANYTHING that costs $2500 either. We are very aware of the cost of things in MOST of our recommendations.
ForScan full version is free and ForScan Lite is a $6 download. Torque Pro is maybe $10. A functional OBDII adapter can be had for $40 (BAFX brand works and is inexpensive), or a top end one for $140 that might be faster with data transfer. Crazy when the poorer tool (ie ScanGauge) is $160 ish. The OBDII adapters that work are BlueTooth ones for Android devices, WiFi for iOs devices, and USB for the laptop (I would just spend the money for the OBDLink USB adapter if you have a laptop).
The EGR valve 12V power circuit ties into the PCM Power circuit. So does the GPCM. They could easily be causing you your troubles. You could try unplugging them (EGR valve and GPCM) to see if you could get cranking again, but that unplugging only helps if the issue is in the component (ie not in the harness). It would be good to try anyway since sometimes the electronics in those components fail, and you have codes (posting code numbers is a help to us). Even with a mechanical fan clutch, the wiring harness could have a short and still cause your issues
Of course it could always be the remote start acting up (electrical issue) ................
EDIT - Other common causes of what you are seeing are shorts in the ICP wiring or connector, or in the EBP sensor or connector (or in the engine harness circuit for these sensors). They can pull down the v-reference circuit voltage or interfere with the PCM ground. You can also try starting with these disconnected, but again, this helps only if the sensor is the issue (and it often is).
good morning sir I waa not able to get a scan gauge anyway sir so im sorry if i jumped the gun but anyway i do have a laptop to download either one of them scan tools to i have a laptop n the only thing i hace on it is a vcds program to read data for my 08 vw golf .
my laptop has windows 10 and i checked how much avaible storage it has and how much I used and i have only used 32 GB of storage and there is 432GB of storage free on my laptop so wherr can i purchase a obd2 connector with USB to hook my laptop to sir ? Im looking for the full version of forscsn now to down load sir ?
The PC version (full version) of ForScan is the most powerful and does the injector "click test" among other tests, like commanding the VGT actuator. With the full version (PC version), you do not need the license for troubleshooting - only for advanced programming (which is not necessary).
I removed and upluged the remote start frim wire harness n my egr is removed from my truck n I have the fan clutch wiring n the egr wire harness pulled back away from everything n i have it tied to by the fuel filter bowel . when you revered to the GPCM what does that mean sir ? I don't have any 5 volt reference at the electric fan clutch plug sir i got no voltage there but have the 12 volts going to the fan plug . i also checked for 5 volt reference at the exhaust back pressure sensor and i do have 5 volts reference there as described . I looking for forscan full version to down load sir now .
You can unplug the black and green connectors to the GPCM as a trial. Try cranking with the connectors unplugged. Not looking for a start, just seeing if the key will crank it.
I suggested unplugging the ICP and EBP sensors because the occasional shorts in these sensors sometimes drag down the 5V reference voltage ......... but ALSO if the 5V power is feeding directly to the "signal return circuit", you could also have a cranking issue (even if the reference voltage circuit retains close to 5V). The "signal return circuit" is the PCM ground circuit .... and you do not want a power source shorting into that circuit. Just measuring the reference circuit voltage at the sensor is not a thorough test, better to just disconnecting the sensor and see if it can crank. Again - this test is ONLY for a bad sensor. Inspect the connectors thoroughly when they are disconnected.
Another test is to unplug the MIDDLE PCM CONNECTOR and see if the engine will crank.
Lastly, the PCM ground signal for the starter relay is from connector C1381a at pin #4 (pink wire). You can see if you get continuity to ground there AT C1381a when trying to start with the key. If you do, then the wire to the starter relay could be bad, or maybe it is an issue with the CJB itself.
Good afternoon sir I did get to download the PC version of forscan full version to my laptop and ordered the usb- obd2 connector and it got delivered today . im at work but when i get finished at work ill head home and try to hook up and run scan sir ill let you know it wil be about 7-8 pm till i get home after work sir n ill let you know what the scan shows n what issues are there n then hopefully it will help with my issue sir n help you point me in right direction that you very very much sir ill post the scan data for. Truck n post it up so you can see ...
Good evening sir i got my usb cable n downloaded FORScan to my pc laptop n did the firmware update to the obd link-ex so so it's all updated with current program software sir I ran a scan and it came up with a lot of stuff and not sure where to go from the information I got with codes cause like i said i have the truck deleted and fan was changed over to mechanical clutch fan and it keeps giving me a code for my trailer brake module injector test came back good n transmission test tcm at first it saidcout of range but thats cuz i did not hit the brake pedal n the cruis buttons when it said to so i reran that test n that came back good no errors n the ic test came back good so not sure what to do or look for next sir ...
If you have any ideas where I should look next that would be great and i did get a two month licence for FORScan and I loaded it so you know just not sure where to go I'll look and see any updates when u have time sir thank you very much for your time and the helpful advise you given me so far I do greatly appreciate it sir .....
10-22-2022, 01:17 PM
