Yesterday outa the blue the window roller on my sweet truck decided to stop working.

Felt it kinda wobble when I rolled the window down, like the gears were slipping. Then it just quit working altogether.

See a pair of screws on the inside of the door panel behind the handle and I assume these hold in the roller assembly but I'm reticent to go tearing into this till I get some advice. (Working blind up inside the door panel sounds like a kind of nightmare to me).

Anyone tried to tackle a window roller?

Thanx y'all for the width,
m

 

Are you talking about the roller(s) that run in the track/channel at the bottom of the window? Or the regulator, the gears that move the arms?

 

ALBUQ I guess he fixed it. My question: which way does the open channel on the bottom of the glass face? Toward the inside of the cab or to the door skin?

 

First lorolr, if that's your ride I'm positively drooling. Been thinking of maybe parkerizing my truck (can hide so many flaws under that kind of finish).

Meantime, sorry for not responding to Albuq's note--somehow I didn't get notified that anyone had responded to this thread.

Turned out it was the roller handle itself that had failed; the little gear-spaces or whatever they're called inside the cup of the handle seem all wallowed out.

The splines on the handle-roller axle (again, sorry I don't know the real names for all these parts--who'd have thought to call the inner guts of this thing a "regulator?") anyway the splines seem to be still deep and intact so till I replace the handle I just found a tiny vise-grip whose teeth exactly fit into those splines.

And lorolr to answer your query (if I understand you correctly) the "open" side of that little axle on the end of the arm that actually raises and lowers the window and slides back and forth in the channel at the base of the window frame faces OUT towards the skin of the door.

Thanx y'all,
g

 

Thanks gus..After I re-read the post it sounded sarcastic..didn't mean it that way. I'm actually trying to figure out which way the open side of the channel on the bottom of the glass goes. Toward the inside of the cab or toward the door skin? It's been so long (5 years) that I can't remember. I'm putting in the large side glass with no wind wing and don't want to do it twice. Bill

 

Will try to take a pic of the base of the window frame (since the panel's open and it's exposed) and get it on here tomorrow.

 

BA-7023240-A .. Window Roller-Nylon, includes clip / Takes 2 per side / Obsolete

The clip retains the roller to a pin on the window regulator, then the regulator w/roller fits into the window channel (has a front/rear section, why 2 are listed per side).

These are notorious for breaking, usually the window falls down into the door / Note: Open channel faces inwards.

Fits: 1953/60 all trucks / 1952/58 Ford Passenger Cars / 1955/60 Thunderbird.

Available from Dennis Carpenter @ $5.50 each.

 

So is that 5.50 each set, or would that be 11 bux for two of them?

(Only ask 'cause I've found these for 2.50 each, so unless Dennis Carpenter's are made of platinum . . .).

 

thanks gus

 

(sigh) I spend 25 minutes researching this jazz, then post it and all you do is complain about the price. What the part costs is irrelevant to me, cuz I do this jazz an an FYI for FTE members...for free.

 

We are currently dealing with this issue after a fresh restore of our '56. My thought is that the extra stress of new felt liners (and multiple roller clip removals/reinstalls) has worn the spring clips excessively. This, along with having to really slam the doors due to new door rubber, which ultimately causes the regulator arm to pop away from the roller assembly.

I've ordered new roller assemblies to get replacement retaining clips, but even so, the installation is something I don't look forward to, as the regulator arm must be fully seated against the roller in order to install the clip, but of course doing this while supporting the roller and compressing the spring with the washer is nearly impossible with the available space.

Any tips on making the re-assembly process more sure-fire? (and not overly spreading and weakening the retaining clip in the process)?