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TUX: FE Finally Gets A Makeover

 
  #76  
Old 04-06-2011, 11:17 AM
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That's odd that more than one person has had the same problem with the same oil leak in the same problem, especially with everything all ready milled perfect. Sounds like it just a piece of crap product and switching that out might solve the problem. That's just weird though that the same gasket would have the same leak on two different engines, sounds like a quality control issue.
 
  #77  
Old 04-06-2011, 02:27 PM
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Ceet, I know and feel your pain all to well. You are going through the exact same thing that I went through.

I used a machine shop on my engine that had no knowledge/quirks of FE's and ended up having to redo everything. I had probably 2k miles on my engine when I pulled it out due to lots of issues. I ran steel shim head gaskets as well, only mine had cross leaks between every cylinder on both sides and it was pressurizing the cooling system and blowing out all my coolant going down the highway. Then the people I had redo my heads did a terrible job and all valves were leaking and guides were trashed.

I am sitting in my FE for a little over 5k now with stock heads, for that amount I could have bought eddy alum heads and done a stroker now (or close to). Its amazing how much poor machine work can cost down the road. I went to Rob @ Blue Oval after I realized mine was trashed and he got it straightened right up and it runs AWESOME now. Just wish I knew about him before. He gets all my work now. I had him deck my block and mill the heads and said screw steel shim gaskets and used reguar felpros. To me it was worth losing a little bit of compression to up the reliability and dependability of the truck/engine and to keep me from going to the looney bin if something else happened or went wrong. LOL

Rob will get you squared away I'm sure, it just sucks he isn't closer. Good luck, I am going to keep watching this thread.
 
  #78  
Old 04-06-2011, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HOTWRENCH View Post
I feel your pain I have a 390 in my 65 Bird that has the same problem. I used the same head gaskets that you did and have an oil leak on the left head in about the same place that you do. I retorqed my heads and added 10 lbs to the final torque. This slowed the leak to almost nothing. I also have a noisy valvetrain issues , when the engine is cold its quiet no noises , when fully warmed up it sounds like a set of solids that are adjusted right. I've tried longer pushrods and finally went to adjustable rockers it sounds the same. What cam are you using? I wonder if my lifters are the hi rev type , which I am told will sound like solids when warmed up. I ordered stock lifters when I bought my cam kit. I am going to pull my heads soon and change to the Fel Pro 1020's and hope it helps. Good luck with your engine.
WOW, well thank god I'm no the only 'idiot' who used thse POS gaskets. My cam is the Crane 344342 kit. I too am switching to FP 1020's.


Originally Posted by Burg460 View Post
Ceet, I know and feel your pain all to well. You are going through the exact same thing that I went through.

I used a machine shop on my engine that had no knowledge/quirks of FE's and ended up having to redo everything. I had probably 2k miles on my engine when I pulled it out due to lots of issues. I ran steel shim head gaskets as well, only mine had cross leaks between every cylinder on both sides and it was pressurizing the cooling system and blowing out all my coolant going down the highway. Then the people I had redo my heads did a terrible job and all valves were leaking and guides were trashed.

I am sitting in my FE for a little over 5k now with stock heads, for that amount I could have bought eddy alum heads and done a stroker now (or close to). Its amazing how much poor machine work can cost down the road. I went to Rob @ Blue Oval after I realized mine was trashed and he got it straightened right up and it runs AWESOME now. Just wish I knew about him before. He gets all my work now. I had him deck my block and mill the heads and said screw steel shim gaskets and used reguar felpros. To me it was worth losing a little bit of compression to up the reliability and dependability of the truck/engine and to keep me from going to the looney bin if something else happened or went wrong. LOL

Rob will get you squared away I'm sure, it just sucks he isn't closer. Good luck, I am going to keep watching this thread.
Yeah I went through a ****ty machine shop who didn't know anything about FE's, too, on my 352/390. Screwed all kinds of things up. Main caps in wrong places, cam plug installed backwards, ****ty valve job, never said anything about how ****ty umbrella seals are and that I should have him machine for new seals which would have only cost around $75.

Rob at Blue Oval Performance is the man! He's helped me a lot! He watched my video this morning and gave me some more good advice.

I just ordered the Ford Racing Head Gasket set, ARP head bolts, and steel reinforced valve cover gaskets. This weekend, it's on like donkey kong.
 
  #79  
Old 04-06-2011, 07:41 PM
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Good deal man, I'm glad you got remotivated. I got my fingers crossed for ya that everything works for ya.
 
  #80  
Old 04-06-2011, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by HOTWRENCH View Post
I feel your pain I have a 390 in my 65 Bird that has the same problem. I used the same head gaskets that you did and have an oil leak on the left head in about the same place that you do. I retorqed my heads and added 10 lbs to the final torque. This slowed the leak to almost nothing. I also have a noisy valvetrain issues , when the engine is cold its quiet no noises , when fully warmed up it sounds like a set of solids that are adjusted right. I've tried longer pushrods and finally went to adjustable rockers it sounds the same. What cam are you using? I wonder if my lifters are the hi rev type , which I am told will sound like solids when warmed up. I ordered stock lifters when I bought my cam kit. I am going to pull my heads soon and change to the Fel Pro 1020's and hope it helps. Good luck with your engine.
This isn't the engine you made from the parts I gave YOU, is it?

If so, those lifters are certainly "anti pump-up". Which means, they are going to (and did) make more noise than normal. Not to mention, the stiff springs, and wild cam profile.

If you're not talking about the stuff I gave you, never mind
 
  #81  
Old 04-06-2011, 09:16 PM
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Just a thought on the head gaskets. With it being milled and the thin gaskets maybe the bolts are bottoming out?? Try studs? if your running a hydraulica cam (sorry did not look at what cam you are running) with adjustable rockers, I have heard of issues like that. I always ran non-adjustable with my hydraulic cams. Also watch what oil you are running if you cam is flat tappet, most normal oils of today are lacking the zinc that this old flat tappet cams need. Engine sounds good other wise!! Don't feel bad i ran in to a bunch of issues when I went to redo my old 390. Now I built a nice 418
 
  #82  
Old 04-06-2011, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jchamp429 View Post
Good deal man, I'm glad you got remotivated. I got my fingers crossed for ya that everything works for ya.
Thanks man. I got too much money into this 428 to give up. Yet, at least.

Originally Posted by polcat View Post
Just a thought on the head gaskets. With it being milled and the thin gaskets maybe the bolts are bottoming out?? Try studs? if your running a hydraulica cam (sorry did not look at what cam you are running) with adjustable rockers, I have heard of issues like that. I always ran non-adjustable with my hydraulic cams. Also watch what oil you are running if you cam is flat tappet, most normal oils of today are lacking the zinc that this old flat tappet cams need. Engine sounds good other wise!! Don't feel bad i ran in to a bunch of issues when I went to redo my old 390. Now I built a nice 418
I'll check bolt depth when I have it off. I don't wanna shell out the cost on the studs. I just bought ARP bolts. I am running Brad Penn oil in the motor. No worries on the zinc. I also ran the "break-in" oil. I rememeber seeing your videos runnin at the track, WHAT A SCREAMER! Got any recent vids???


I can't get past all the engine noises and problems to actually hear how good it sounds, yet. But thanks!
 
  #83  
Old 04-07-2011, 03:09 AM
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I only mentioned the oil hole lining up because I remember putting a 360 together and the new head gasket had the darn oil feed hole off a good bit.

And not to be stating the overly obvious, but really good grade 8 washers are cheaper than studs if bottoming out is a problem :-)
Yeah you can use washers, my old 149 detroit used to take huge spacer/washers that were not much wider than the bolt and we torqued them down pretty tight.

Good luck,
Drew
 
  #84  
Old 04-07-2011, 10:12 AM
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Engine

Krewat -- No thats not the same engine , the one I got from you is almost ready to be installed in my 68 fairlane. I know Iv'e asked you before and misplaced my notes do you still have those cam specs? If you do please send them to me. Do you still want the rest of that 59 4wd chassis and cab?

Have A Great Day-------------Hotwrench
 
  #85  
Old 04-07-2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by HOTWRENCH View Post
Krewat -- No thats not the same engine , the one I got from you is almost ready to be installed in my 68 fairlane. I know Iv'e asked you before and misplaced my notes do you still have those cam specs? If you do please send them to me. Do you still want the rest of that 59 4wd chassis and cab?
I do have those cam specs, I will get them to you ASAP as soon as I get down into my office in my basement again

As for the '59, YES YES YES. Thanks. I am trying to get together with my brother and hopefully soon (next few months) will come by.
 
  #86  
Old 04-07-2011, 08:59 PM
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NO Ceet no recent vidoes lately. Money has been tight have not had that many oppurtunities to go the track. Have been having some tunning/ drive train issues. Finding a good match. I had a 3500 stall so had a killer sixty foot but no top end power. Recently changed it. Went to at 2200-2500 stall and 4.22 gears. And bought a brand new 950 built by Pro-systems. Made some decent runs after I dialed it in some [email protected] BUT when I would take off from the light it would fall on its face. So after talking to the guy that built it, found out the carb had air restrictors in the air circuit on the secondaries. Removed them and now can't keep the truck straight ALOT BETTER. Jsut not had time to go to the track to try it out. BUt figured it should run some 12 second passes again now. OH an that 106 was on a 100 degree day here in Texas
 
 
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