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I would also recomend an aftermarket deep trans. pan, more fluid less heat, and im sure we can all admit if we were ever gonna pull something like that having one of those would be n the back of your minds.
Guys, thanks for all of the great input. I feel a lot more knowledgeable about the OD and lock operation (although in reality it is probably just a bit more knowledgeable). I'm towing this rig to Carolina Motorsports Park in South Carolina on Friday (less one track car) for the LeMons race so I won't have a chance to do the gage before I tow. Hopefully understanding when to OD and when to not will be helpful. A good flush and supplemental cooler are on the short list (DND58's post has freaked me out).
I'll do a search, but if anybody knows of a solid DIY thread on installing the temp gage and/or cooler please drop a link. The gage is in the cluster, but I'm not sure if the sensor is in the box-o-parts or if I need find and install a sensor.
I would also recomend an aftermarket deep trans. pan, more fluid less heat, and im sure we can all admit if we were ever gonna pull something like that having one of those would be n the back of your minds.
Oh great, more parts to add to my tow vehicle needs list. I planned for extensive parts, safety equipment and labor time with the track cars, but keep adding trailer service and upgrades and F350 service and upgrades to the list. It's all good, but it keeps piling up.
The good news is, I bought a 2002 7.3 instead of a 2011 F350 so I have lots of unused cash reserves .
ih8rainnc, I didn't mean to freak you out. Just saying the factory gauge is not reliable for temps, especially for towing as heavy as you do. Mine rarely moves. Even cold start in summer, gauge shows in normal range while aftermarket starts out cold and will move around depending on conditions. Before I installed aftermarket gauges, I had the factory gauge close to where you described.
Not sure what gauges you have, but here is link to some install instructions. #14 shows tranny temp probe connection.
Guys, thanks for all of the great input. I feel a lot more knowledgeable about the OD and lock operation (although in reality it is probably just a bit more knowledgeable). I'm towing this rig to Carolina Motorsports Park in South Carolina on Friday (less one track car) for the LeMons race so I won't have a chance to do the gage before I tow. Hopefully understanding when to OD and when to not will be helpful. A good flush and supplemental cooler are on the short list (DND58's post has freaked me out).
I'll do a search, but if anybody knows of a solid DIY thread on installing the temp gage and/or cooler please drop a link. The gage is in the cluster, but I'm not sure if the sensor is in the box-o-parts or if I need find and install a sensor.
When I posted to get a 6.0 trans cooler I should have been a little more clear. The 7.3 trans cooler is mounted low in the front and should be removed completely (per BTS transmissions). I was told that it will restrict the flow if it is conjunctions to the 6.0. The 6.0 mounts in front of the fan (instructions are on this forum) and air is pulled through it whether at idle or flying down the road. with the 7.3 mounted low in the front, there is no air flow when at idle or going at slow speeds. The 6.0 is 2-3 times bigger and with the fan air flow, you will not need or want the 7.3 on the front to cause other problems (per BTS transmissions)
I think that you were burning up your trans by going to fast with the OD off. Leave it on, except for lower speed hills and curves, get the 6.0 cooler and This should also take care of NOT needing an after market deep pan. The 6.0 will take care of keeping your tran temps lower
Is this a dedicated tow vehicle? It it is and it were mine, I would put some 4.88's in the rear and take some of the strain off of the motor/transmission. Sure, the motor/tranny will be screaming at 65, but it won't be in a struggle to pull. Extra cooling will certainly help but you get to a point to where you are only masking the real problem of improper gearing for the weight that you are dealing with. Good Luck!!!
Not trying to start an argument, but I remember reading here that someone (could of been Mark, don't remember) said that a deeper or larger capacity trans oil pan is NOT the way to go. Just because it holds a larger capacity it will still get hot and take longer to cool than our standard capacity pans. The real solution is cooling the existing fluid that’s there. An additional or supplementary cooler is the best bet to keep the fluid temp within reasonable limits. The weight your pulling, steepness of the grades and your right foot (along with other factors) all factor in to the temps of the fluid. I’m not a transmission expert, but I spent my money on a Tru-cool centered in front of the turbo intercooler and all’s good. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
Not trying to start an argument, but I remember reading here that someone (could of been Mark, don't remember) said that a deeper or larger capacity trans oil pan is NOT the way to go. Just because it holds a larger capacity it will still get hot and take longer to cool than our standard capacity pans.
I've heard that before. If you just had a larger pan, no additional cooling, I think that could be true, but it also takes longer for the ATF to heat up since there's more of it. The heat will dissipate quicker in the larger pan since there is more surface area to cool it, and fancy little 'fin's built in. Best is to start with improved cooling, and if that isn't enough, then consider a bigger pan.
I have both a 6.0L trans cooler and a extra big pan and I probably do the worst work for an auto trans. I pull heavy loads (~20K lbs) at very slow speeds through fields. So far I haven't gotten it above 150* when I'm working it hard.
To the OP, get that trans temp gauge hooked up!! Is the wiring there, just need to hook it up? Or do you have to run the wires yet?
I would think that 4.88 gears would be a little much especially if wanting to tow at 65 or 70. Your mpg would suck and engine would be screeming.My truck with 3.73 and 305/55/20 nittos at 70 runs around 2000-2200 rpm. I'm sure with 4.10 gear ratio it would be 2500-2600.
Here are My RPM's at various speed with my 1999 F-450 with 4.88's. I realize that mine is a ZF6 manual and not an auto. To be sure there can't be that much difference in the manual and auto final drive. It pulls the 16,000lb. double stack like it's not even back there. It gets around 12mpg empty(driving very conservative. Never really calculated the mileage towing, I just feed the tank when it's empty. I didn't buy this for mileage, I bought it to effortlessly handle the load.
55-2050
60-2250
65-2450
70-2650
This is why I asked in my previous post about the truck being a dedicated tow vehicle. My 450 is definitely not a daily driver...lol.
I don't exactly remember all the numbers on the 2005 EX. V-10 with 4.30's but I do know that at 60 the engine is turning 1950.
Keep in mind that turning more RPM loaded doesn't necessarily equate to worse mileage. I guess you have to ask yourself this, are you cruising with the load or are you pushing it with the load.
miller_feed... If you're turning 2600 rpm at 60 with 4.10's, you have a serious tranny problem.
I didn't note the RPMs that time. I'll make sure I do on the next trip.
I have no idea if the wires for the tran temp gage are run. I haven't looked. If I have time tomorrow at the track I will try to hook things up if they are there.
Thanks for the insight on the coolers. I'll start my research.
Yeah I don't know why Ford even put a tranny "gauge" on the truck, that's a "lie o meter" if I ever saw one. Once it gets to operating temp it barely moves and definitely not enough to reflect a dangerous teperature.