Notices
1997 - 2003 F150 1997-2003 F150, 1997-1999 F250LD, 7700 & 2004 F150 Heritage
Old 11-12-2014, 05:54 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: Electrical Guides
Print Wikipost

How to replace your 4.6L & 5.4L spark plugs

 
  #76  
Old 02-19-2005, 11:34 AM
Modoc ED
Modoc ED is offline
New User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Alturas, CA
Posts: 21
Modoc ED is starting off with a positive reputation.
I posted above that I had had my plugs changed at 59,274.3 miles and I just want to follow the post up with the following information:

The Emissions Control Lable under the hood specifies that the correct gap for the spark plugs is .052-.056. Since I kept the old spark plugs, I checked the gap on them and the gap varies from .060-.065. To me anyway, this just reinforces my belief that the Ford 100,000 mile tune-up is a gimmick. If the plugs were as much as .009 over recommended maximum gap at 59,274.3 miles then what would they have been at 100,000 miles?

Vorteck Engineering recommends that with their Super Charger that you increase the spark plug torque by 30%-35% and change spark plugs every 40,000 miles. I happen to think that that is good advice for any engine whether it has a super charger or not.

Yes, Ford says their plugs can go 100,000 miles before changing them but I wonder how many "blown plugs" could have been avoided by changing the spark plugs at a 35,000 to 40,000 mile interval?

Anyway, that's my 2-cents.

Modoc ED
 
  #77  
Old 02-28-2005, 09:00 PM
Kevdadi
Kevdadi is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 69
Kevdadi is starting off with a positive reputation.
Gentlemen:

My truck doesn't throw a Check Engine Light/code, but I suspect there is a bad coil and I'll say why... maybe one of you all could relate your experience.

PROBLEM:
When I start the truck, the 5.4L idles a bit high (like 1200 or so rpms) for maybe 20 seconds. During that time of "warming up." there is a distinct misfire; really more pronounced during that time, but is also noticeable on occasion otherwise.

ANSWER:
??? At least I have managed to purchase one replacement coil, but I've just hit a wall as to which one (s) bad.

Earlier, a guy posted that he found even the bad coils to retain the same resistance as the good ones; so does the test I have posted in my gallery work or not? How would you find the "missing link?" My idea may be time consuming in playing "musical coils" until the right one works best, is there any other way besides buying all 8 new coils? These are expensive
 
  #78  
Old 03-01-2005, 12:22 PM
Kustomkote
Kustomkote is offline
New User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 14
Kustomkote is starting off with a positive reputation.
I was the one that mentioned the resistance check before. The problem is that when the top of the coils crack it gives the spark a place to go other than to the plug but usually the route to the nearest ground is too large so the plug is the path of less resistance. When the compression pressures rise in the cylinders, So does the resistance across the plug gap and the spark will jump through the crack to ground. So long as the the coil is getting rid of it's charge, The PCM thinks it's going to the plug. So the only way to check it is to look for the coil with the cracks which are very hard to see sometimes. The resistance check works but only if there is a short. I've found that these COP's usually go bad because of cracks. Sometimes exchanging one COP with the new one and trying it and then going on one at a time through all 8 is the only way to go!! Sorry
 
  #79  
Old 03-05-2005, 09:04 PM
Splen
Splen is offline
New User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 1
Splen is starting off with a positive reputation.
Talking

RacerGuy and all who commented or made suggestions on this thread, I would like to thank you all for the help you gave in changing the spark plugs and COP on my Ford Expedition 5.4L. Wow, this is the first time I've worked on my EXP. Actually I've never removed a spark plug in my life until today.

Back in December, I had a misfire on #4 which cost me a wee bit over $500 with a diagnostic check, labor, 8 spark plugs, and 1 COP. A big ripoff of course at Firestone. Being a female, not knowing much about SUVs, I put my trust in them. Then 2 weeks later, in early January, the same thing occurred again, both times, during really bad rain storms in Southern California. This time I refused to take my SUV back. Instead, I found this site, went in search of a bargain on COPs, which took over a month, but I had patience. Found a bargain last week, paid only $165 for brand new OEM COPs, took all of them out except #4 which had already been replaced.

Wow, you weren't joking about #7, #8...but I got them out eventually, took about 2 hours to get all 7 COPs out yesterday. I put them back in today, the #7 COP was loaded with wet sand/dirt...muddylike. When I pull out the spark plug.....a shocker....It was covered in slime...uck...saturated in muddy slimmy dripping gunk.

Well, I didnt' have a car vac, so nothing like my trusty household vacuum, to suck all the dirt/sand from the other plugs, and a thick paper towel to clean on #7. Then I greased (DiElectric) and put everything back together. I was so excited when it started up, then took it for a test drive around the city. No noises, no engine light on, and a wonderful smooth ride
 

Last edited by Splen; 03-05-2005 at 09:08 PM.
  #80  
Old 03-06-2005, 12:25 AM
Racerguy's Avatar
Racerguy
Racerguy is offline
Post Fiend
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 12,674
Racerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to behold
Welcome aboard Splen

You're welcome. We've got a great bunch of guys and gals on here that like helping out where they can.
Good to hear another success story.
You sure didn't pick a very easy engine to work on for your first spark plug change but maybe that makes the success all that much better
Stick around and join in on here. We've also got a California chapter, further down on the main forum page. You might find some people there from near where you are.
 
  #81  
Old 03-06-2005, 02:26 PM
xallxforxchristx
xallxforxchristx is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 205
xallxforxchristx is starting off with a positive reputation.
Do you recommend replacing the cop when you replace the spark plugs? I am planning on replacing my spark plugs next week over spring break and was wondering if I need to do cop's too. I know the #4 plug and cop have been replaced...they went out on us during vacation about 3 years ago next week. My truck is about to roll over 100,000 (probably will on the drive back from school next week) and to my knowledge only the #4 plug and cop have been replaced, so I decided it might me a good idea too go ahead and replace them while I have the time. Sorry if my question has been asked before, I've read a little into this thread, but not much do to time constraints and studying. Thanks for the replies.
 
  #82  
Old 03-06-2005, 03:03 PM
Racerguy's Avatar
Racerguy
Racerguy is offline
Post Fiend
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 12,674
Racerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to beholdRacerguy is a splendid one to behold
My opinion about COPs is "if it aint broke dont fix it".
As long as you're just doing routine maintenance and not trying to fix a misfire I wouldn't replace them.
Unless of course you've got money to burn
 
  #83  
Old 03-07-2005, 07:18 PM
xallxforxchristx
xallxforxchristx is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 205
xallxforxchristx is starting off with a positive reputation.
I was looking at the Motorcraft website a minute ago and noticed that there were both standard and platinum spark plugs. Which one do y'all suggest for normal maintenance?
 
  #84  
Old 03-08-2005, 04:26 PM
Kustomkote
Kustomkote is offline
New User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 14
Kustomkote is starting off with a positive reputation.
Platimum last much longer than the regular ones
 
  #85  
Old 03-08-2005, 04:54 PM
xallxforxchristx
xallxforxchristx is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 205
xallxforxchristx is starting off with a positive reputation.
about how long is much longer in mileage terms? I'm looking online at AutoZone and the only plugs I can find that they sell are the standard ones...anywhere else I should try that would have platinums (other than of course the dealership)?
 
  #86  
Old 03-08-2005, 11:29 PM
Kustomkote
Kustomkote is offline
New User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 14
Kustomkote is starting off with a positive reputation.
I've been using Bosch Platinum plugs for about 15 years and they usually last about 60,000 miles of hard driving. Don't waste your time with the plugs with more than one electrode.
 
  #87  
Old 03-11-2005, 07:58 AM
xallxforxchristx
xallxforxchristx is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 205
xallxforxchristx is starting off with a positive reputation.
Do you apply the di-electric grease to the out side of the boot or the inside? This is the only step that I am really unclear about. If someone could please try and answer this before 5 o'clock tonight that would be very helpful. Once I make the drive back from school today, I am going to let the truck cool down and then dig in and have some fun
 
  #88  
Old 03-12-2005, 10:41 AM
xallxforxchristx
xallxforxchristx is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 205
xallxforxchristx is starting off with a positive reputation.
Alright, well I didn't get any replies from that last post, but once I pulled out the COP and boot, it became apparent where I'd need to apply the grease, so I figured that out. I still have a few questions though. When you replace the spark plugs, do you remove anyother accessories etc that surround the engine and spark plug area? I found that even with the extensions and swivels that some still were really hard to get at. So far, I have changed out 2 of the plugs (5 and 6) started on 7, but could not get the bolt that holds the COP out b/c part of the fuel rail was blocking the way. I ended up having to screw the bolt back in and just go to bed cause it was 4am and my parents were getting really frustrated and couldn't sleep b/c they told me this morning that they really didn't want me undertaking this task and that I should take it too a mechanic...which I finally convinced them that I am not going to do. Another problem that I ran into is that when I go to torque the spark plugs, my spark plug socket ends up clamping down tightly to the spark plug and thus does not come out whenever I pull back the extensions leading me to just back the whole thing back out I finally ended up just screwing them in with the vacuum hosing and trying to tighten it with that the best I can. I was wondering if I should superglue the long extension that I have to the spark plug socket...this would hopefully solve the problem of the socket staying in the hole, although it would mean that I'd be out an extension. Any ideas on what I should do? I want to get them torqued correctly and I don't feel that the hosing got them tight enough, I could be wrong though. I did fire up the truck with the 5 and 6 plugs replaced and it ran okay, no misfiring, I just want to make sure that I do this job right, so I'm sorry for the long post, but any advice that y'all have would be very helpful. I've read through this forum many times, but anyother advice would be helpful. I will be finishing up this job on Wednesday when I get back from a fishing trip, hopefully I'll have some good advice to follow when I get back. Thanks guys.

oh, I was probably going to try and take the fuel rail off when I start back up since that one bolt was obstructed by it, I know it doesn't have to be done, but it might make it easier. What kit do I need to buy at O'Reillys or Autozone to take the fuel rail off correctly?
 
  #89  
Old 03-12-2005, 04:58 PM
Kustomkote
Kustomkote is offline
New User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 14
Kustomkote is starting off with a positive reputation.
You apply it to the inside of the boot. Over time the rubber of the boot will almost melt to the plug and this makes it very hard to remove without ruining the boot. It also helps to keep moisture out of it.
 
  #90  
Old 03-14-2005, 03:14 PM
Kustomkote
Kustomkote is offline
New User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 14
Kustomkote is starting off with a positive reputation.
If you're using a spark plug socket then take the rubber insert out of the inside of it and that should take care of the socket sticking on the plug. As for the COP bolt a 1/4 inch drive socket wrench with a universal and an extension usually works. I have found a few though that I did have to pull the bolts for the fuel rail on that side and pull it to the side a little. Some of them are so tight that a quarter of an inch makes all the difference.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: How to replace your 4.6L & 5.4L spark plugs


Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.