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Old 11-12-2014, 05:54 PM
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How to replace your 4.6L & 5.4L spark plugs

 
  #646  
Old 08-20-2016, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by josh1095 View Post
Ok, manual says 14lbs and i'm reading people going up to 28(!)lbs.
What's the deal here? I am about to do this in 12 hours. So far i've seen a general consensus on NOT using anti seize, i can understand that. I've read that there are as little as 3 threads in the head for the plug. 28lbs going on 3 threads of soft aluminum scares me.
I think i might set it at about 17 or 18, my hands will tell me when. But the angles are so fn crazy in there that getting an accurate torque on some plugs will be extraordinarily difficult i assume.

What's the deal with the torque values, that's my question. Any ford TSB about this?

2004 EB expedition (5.4 2 valve)
The plug will break before you strip the threads.
Tested for the breaking point on the early 4 spark plug thread heads - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 
  #647  
Old 08-20-2016, 05:55 AM
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How much experience do you have with Ford mod motor plugs?

Maybe the plug will break before the threads strip. This is probably a true statement. The problem has nothing to do with stripping threads when putting them in. The problem comes when taking them out. If they are over torqued with no anti seize and especially if removed while the engine is not dead cold, you will have a high chance of stripping threads upon removal.

If you don't belive me, start cranking the plugs into these heads as if it were an old iron head motor of some sort, and tell me how it works out for you when removing them.
 
  #648  
Old 08-20-2016, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MBDiagMan View Post
How much experience do you have with Ford mod motor plugs?
Enough experience to know that 14 pounds isn't enough.
I also own my own Time Sert 5553 kit because the last guy thought it was enough. He was wrong.
 
  #649  
Old 08-21-2016, 09:00 AM
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So you are able to know the torque value used for the previous plug installation? Which instrument did you use to determine that?
 
  #650  
Old 08-21-2016, 11:34 AM
josh1095
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I had mine done yesterday. I came out to see him put a plug in. He was an ex ford mechanic so he's done literally hundreds of these. He strongly recommended against anti seize and said he doesn't use a torque wrench. I followed up by feeling roughly how much pressure he had applied and i'd say, using my hand as a gauge, it was between 20 and 25.
He said that he never uses the 14lbs.
So we'll see. He was a great dude and i've done a LOT of work on a lot of cars but my back isn't what i used to be. $200 for all 8 plugs/COPs was a deal for me.
She's running so smooth now.
So unfortunately i don't have an exact torque number for y'all. I can just say what i felt and it was def more than 14.
Thank you both very much for your expertise and suggestions
 
  #651  
Old 08-21-2016, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MBDiagMan View Post
So you are able to know the torque value used for the previous plug installation? Which instrument did you use to determine that?
The ejected spark plug was a pretty clear indicator.
Also, speaking to the last installer who confirmed the torque value he used seemed pretty conclusive to me so I'm not sure what more evidence you would ever require.

I had a 1997 F150 4.6 that went over 315,000 before I traded it off.
I did multiple spark plug changes on it, no issues with a higher torque value, it never ejected a spark plug. I saw and heard it running last week, still going strong with even more miles on it.

Even if your mistaken premise of difficult removal were the issue, I would much rather have the issue in my own driveway right next to my tools, refrigerator, and AC instead of out on a highway somewhere road tripping across America. So your argument is invalid since you even said:
Originally Posted by MBDiagMan View Post
The problem has nothing to do with stripping threads when putting them in. The problem comes when taking them out.
The only problems with ANY Ford modular engine spark plugs is that people put them in too loose and leave them in too long.
Too loose, and they could eject.
Left in too long, and they corrode and build up deposits that booger up the threads upon removal. Installation torque has very little to do with removal unless you get up over 5X the Ford spec of 7-14. And I haven't seen anyone ever recommend anywhere near 5X torque value, only around double @ 28-30.
It is due to misinformation like you are spreading that scares people out of doing a sensible routine maintenance interval and leaving the plugs in too long. I have met and talked to far too many people that own and drive these trucks for hundreds of thousands of miles that say the same thing; "install them tight enough and change them early enough and you will never have a spark plug problem."
30 lbs ft & 50,000 miles and you will never have any spark plug problems.
As much as I love buying trucks cheap from idiots that ignore maintenance and wait to sell low after the plugs blow out I would rather everybody enjoyed their truck for as long as possible and quit blaming Ford for their own maintenance mistakes.
 
  #652  
Old 09-06-2016, 11:02 AM
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one of the biggest problems ive seen is guys use too thick diameter of a socket, the socket body binds into the head and it feels to the installer that it is tight. i have a long *** snap on deep reach socket, it is also very thin i diameter compared to the chicom **** they at harbor frieght. better tooling equals an easier too achieve quality job.
 
  #653  
Old 11-05-2016, 05:31 PM
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OK guys, started to replace my plugs on me 05 F150 5.4l and the first one went perfect, the second one, well not so good. the threaded part of the plug came off just fine however leaving the rest of the plug in place. 3rd one same thing only the plug came out only without the ( ok Im tired and at a loss) part where the spark is. Help Please...
 
  #654  
Old 11-05-2016, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by klove76 View Post
OK guys, started to replace my plugs on me 05 F150 5.4l and the first one went perfect, the second one, well not so good. the threaded part of the plug came off just fine however leaving the rest of the plug in place. 3rd one same thing only the plug came out only without the ( ok Im tired and at a loss) part where the spark is. Help Please...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...NQKXKX2KHWLCPZ
 
  #655  
Old 02-08-2017, 03:37 AM
Stanislaw
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Ok so to keep this thread alive...
I'm doing plugs on my navigator 98 (so one part plugs, unbreakable)...
However, noticed, the bolt that holds cylinder 6 COP in place is broken (no head on it), and it sticks out from the hole only about 10mm or even less...
No space to approach with even small pipe wrench, the bolt is too thin to drill a hole in it to use regular 'unscrewer'... What to do? Any ideas? The COP is now badly loose, bouncing on the rubber boot, and causing misfires - that's for sure..
 
  #656  
Old 05-24-2018, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Stanislaw View Post
Ok so to keep this thread alive...
I'm doing plugs on my navigator 98 (so one part plugs, unbreakable)...
However, noticed, the bolt that holds cylinder 6 COP in place is broken (no head on it), and it sticks out from the hole only about 10mm or even less...
No space to approach with even small pipe wrench, the bolt is too thin to drill a hole in it to use regular 'unscrewer'... What to do? Any ideas? The COP is now badly loose, bouncing on the rubber boot, and causing misfires - that's for sure..
A few years ago, I found one of these tools at Harbor Freight:
Amazon Amazon
Here's the exact one, item# 94640: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...exH6L3DEr1NXrw

It might not be a perfect answer, but it works on the same idea that a pipe wrench does. The harder you push on the ratchet, the harder the round 'wheel' on it pushes against the stud to grip it and transmit torque to unthread it. However, with such a small stud (M5x0.8 threads), it might not be able to grip sufficiently to remove it. When I was facing this on my 97 Expedition back in 2016, I ended up taking the truck to a shop because I didn't feel comfortable trying it. Fortunately, They got it out. Afterwards, it would be a wise decision to get some stainless steel bolts for the coil mounts. I'll be doing so later today for mine.
 
  #657  
Old 10-22-2018, 11:31 AM
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Replacing plugs 2nd time

Ok I am about to change out my plugs and they have already been replaced before with the newer SP 546 Motorcraft plug. Do I need to worry about them seizing and breaking or can i just ratchet them out?
 
  #658  
Old 10-22-2018, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Bergen View Post
Ok I am about to change out my plugs and they have already been replaced before with the newer SP 546 Motorcraft plug. Do I need to worry about them seizing and breaking or can i just ratchet them out?
5.4 3valve ? I would still use the carbon cleaner to disolve the carbon so that the threads do not get damaged as you remove the plugs. basically carbon will foul on the threads and the aluminum will gall and destroy the threads in the process. and not sure about the 3V engines, but eh 2V's everybody needs to think about this, the little springs in the boot between the coil and the plug are prone to corrosion, if they get any rust whatsoever replace them as they will cause misfire where the coil itself is fine.
 
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Old 10-22-2018, 12:35 PM
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Sorry, Yes it is an 05 - 5.4 3 valve, plugs where done at 96 K along with #5,6, and #8 COP's, truck has 119,800 on it now and got a P0304 code misfire # 4, pulled the COP and took a pic of the top of the plug and it looked like possibly there was arcing, replaced with new COP didn't pull plug and truck runs fine. I did not do my plugs originally as I did not research to see how to pull them if they broke( my brother had told me horror stories of his 03 ) so I had them done at the Ford shop. With only 24K on the plugs I really wasn't planning on changing them yet but if the misfire was due to the plug instead of the COP I wanted to be prepared and If i change 1 plug I would change them all.
 
 
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