Well got #4 changed out and all is well.

I went to the parts store and got a GearWrench spark plug socket that was mated to a 4" extension. The socket had a swivel base and was magnetic so this helped me not loose the socket in the spark plug well. I used that along with a universal joint and another 4" extension and was able to remove and reinstall fairly painlessly. I actually used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with 3/8 adapter for install so I could be right up and down on the plug...didn't wanna snug it up off to the side...wanted a good straight feel for what I was tightening down.

As far as the hoses, I wash shifting them all kinds of way to make room. Even unplugged the coil and injector next to #4 and spun the injector sideways for clearance.

Not a real bad job, just time consuming. All in all, I replaced 3 COPs and plugs and the Expy is running like a raped ape!

Many thanks to all!!!!!

 

hello i just got my first truck.. 2001 ford f150 v8 5.4 has 155,000 was a one owner.. truck is in good condition everyone that see's it says i did good.. it also runs good.. i got the truck like 3 weeks ago.. i put a k&n air filter in it.. got a flowmaster muffler weldded on.. just got the oil changed.. my question is should i change the spark plugs? i dont kno when the last time they were changed? should i wait till i kno i need them or just change them now? im new to trucks/cars.. also is there anything else i should look into changing? thanks guys!

 

Started on doing the spark plug and COP change today, will finish it tomorrow. I've read about 14 ft-lbs here and there for the spark plugs, but also read 28 ft-lbs. Is there a consensus on what it should be? The NGK plugs recommend between 18 and 24.
Also, is there a torque spec on the 7mm bolts for the COPs?

Thanks.

 

Pull one plug out and see what condition it is in. After removing the COP blow out the area the plug is in and squirt a LITTLE rust penetrant in and let it soak for awhile. if you don't have a socket made specifically for this job duct tape a spark plug socket and extension together. When first removing just turn the spark plug 1/8th of a turn then tighten and loosen till it becomes easier to turn then spin it out all the way.

 

I put a little antiseize on the lower threads only and put them in at what felt good to me. I wish I had taken the installed torque but I have installed spark plugs since I was a kid. Me personally wouldn't go past 20ft.lbs. doing it my way.

 

..There seems to both sides of whether to use anti-seize or not. Just me personally, I used a very little dab on a few of the threads when I did mine at around 100k. I would have to day 20 ft lbs is what I used. I checked them when I did my intake a few weeks ago, and they are all still in there good! 137k on her!

 

got my 2001 ford f150 about 3 weeks ago.. it was a 1 owner.. seems to be well takin care of.. it as 154,000 on her.. i changed the air filter.. changed the oil.. my question is should i wait till i NEED new spark plugs or chnage them asap?

 

I recently got a 2003 F150 with 251000 miles on it. The only reason I changed my plugs and COPs was because I was having a misfire issue. I would say that if I didn't have that issue, I wouldn't bother changing my plugs just yet. The truck I bought also had one owner, and look to be well taken care of.

I think the 5.4's can go through quite a lot of wear and tear, and I personally wouldn't bother until you have an issue.

 

Racer, I don't know if you are still reading this or not, but a BIG THANK YOU is in order.

Hi, I'm a new member, and I became a member solely because of this thread.
I have an '02 2v 5.4L F-150 with 175,000 miles on it.
I have owned this truck since it had 67,000 miles, and have never done a spark plug swap due to all the horror stories.
Over the passed 4 days, the truck has started stuttering in high gear around 1,500RPM. I asked my bro-in-law who's worked on cars for decades, and he said I should probably get around to changing out those plugs, and see if that is the problem. They clearly needed to be done anyways, so I had no reason to argue the point. He warned me of the problems these aluminum heads have had, so I was again hesitant.
So, I started my search for the best tips/tricks/tools for the job, and I found this thread. It finally gave me the courage I needed to up and do this myself.
I had read another experience where the guy let his plugs soak in a penetrating oil overnight, so I figured I'd go that route since I have no idea how old these plugs are. They very well could be factory installed plugs... I know... I'm very ashamed of myself. But if they are, geez does that speak highly of the truck, am I right?

Anyways, I started the tear down this evening after reading Racer's words of wisdom and now have the COPs off and Blaster soaking in the very bottom of the bore holes.
That #7 COP bolt is a sunuvugun with that fuel line protrusion right above it. I had to scrounge for 30 minutes for a 7mm wrench, then had to bend the ends in order to get down in there. (only time I've been happy to have a crappy Japanese wrench)

I did find oil in the bottom of the #7. Not a bunch, but it was enough to form a small ring around the plug, and some is on the very tip of the COP boot.
Is that a problem I need to look into? My bro-in-law said it might be a gasket seeping oil. Could it be causing my stuttering problem, if the oil is getting up into where the plug sets in the boot? Can it affect the conductivity?
Is there any way to prevent oil creeping into the boot again, assuming it continues the slow seepage? I intend to add dielectric grease upon reinstall.

Sorry for the long first post.
This looks like a great forum with some very knowledgeable members, and that can be hard to come by sometimes. I'm trying to soak in as much as I can.

Thanks for any help/advice you can give.
And wish me luck on the plug extraction/install tomorrow!

EDIT: Plugs are done! All were reasonably worn, except for one. The one in that #7 was almost perfect. I mean I had to double-check that I hadn't already changed that one out. It was clean, no fouling or black marks. Even the tip was still flat and faceted. Not pointed like the others. I took a pic of them all because it shocked me to see that. Anyways, all plugs are done and COPs are back on.
I did inadvertently break a vaccuum line's old rubber seal back near 3 and 4, but taped it back and the idle returned to normal.
Purs like a kitten now. Need to get her out on the road to test the stuttering.

Thanks again for this thread. So much easier with these instructions.

 

I have 240k on mine, and I'm considering whether to change the plugs or not. I'm leaning toward leave it alone, but I do like preventive maintenance, and being able to choose when I replace something, opposed to having to work something into my schedule in an emergency situation. Thankfully, I have two vehicles.

Thanks for your thoughts on this. I think I'll just do the O2s that are wigging out on me for now.

 

Oh man...I just replaced COP's and sparkplugs on my 1999 w/5.4L. What a PITA that was! I took the fuel rail off and as many hoses, wires, etc. out of the way that I could and still didn't have that much room. Who designed the engine??? It still took me the good part of 4 hours to finish. I was taking my time not to screw anything up.

I've never had such a hard time changing something as simple as sparkplugs.

Anyways, now that its done the rough idle is gone and she purrs when I put the pedal down. Worth the tune up and she was due for the maintenance. Glad I won't have to do that again for another 100K.

 

I just had my 2005 f150 fx4 5.4l with 116K miles serviced and they changed the plugs. It has been idling rough and feels like it misfires with a cel code coming on. I took it to midas and the tech said that plug #2 was not sealed and it was letting air into the combustion chamber. How would this be fixed... Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

First of all Midas probably isn't a shop I would trust to do mechanical work on my truck.
The only way air could be leaking into the cylinder is if the plug was blown out of the threads or the plug core was blown out or partially missing.
I'de suggest having a real automotive mechanic diagnose the problem and if the plugs were just successfully changed the COPs are the next suspect

 

you need to go elsewhere for serice, the combustion chamber is never going to be in a vacume state its either under pressureized or partially pressureized if the plug was loose, then it would allow combustion pressure to leak out, not air leak in. Because you are not familiar with the basics of how an engine runs I would suggest a dealership look at it for you.

ken

 

Just got done changing the plugs in my 02 5.4, The worst thing about changing them is you have to reach way back from the front of the radiatior. I don't know what the engineers were/are thinking? The older trucks had the engines up towards the front and were easy to work on. Not the newer SD's. Anyway it took about an hour and a half t get to the plugs and get them out. The worst was the passenger side rear. But with not rushing it, they all came out nice. Put in the new ones, just waiting for 6 more boots to come in at Auto Zone. They had 2 in stock?? Kindof hard to think it would pay to only keep 2 in stock. lol Anyway, it should only take about 1/2 hour to finish up when I get the rest of the boots. Then it's battery shopping time, battery has 60% life in it, leave the dome light on for about 5 mins. and it won't start.