2 1/2 hours from start to finish, couple of busted knuckles and several prayers later...Out with the old in with the new. New versus old plug in the photo. Original plug on right had 127K miles on them.

 

Welcome to the forum Vines
It looks like you got your money's worth out of those.

 

45 minutes to swap the plugs on a 5.4L, wow that's amazing. It was 45 minutes on my 78 Bronco, but not this 2004 Expedition. With a couple other things thrown it was 12.5 hours from start to being finished cleaning up. Now I had to go to the dealer, the parts store and the hardware store, make dinner for the kids etc, but crap this is insane. I twisted 2 extensions in half(1 amazingly was Snap-On), broke 1 elbow/swivel, broke a spark plug socket and broke 1 COP bolt. Took an hour to get the remainder of the COP bolt out, thank goodness it was on the #1 cylinder. The passenger side rear plug was a nightmare and where I broke all the tools.

I still can't believe how hard it was to get the plugs to break loose.

I miss the positive lock feel of normal plug wires being seated on plugs, that seems to be completely gone with the COP's.

I also spent over an hour trying to figure out why there was an uncapped/disconnected vacuum line. Turns out it's a vent line for the IWE. Sad thing is that I never noticed it before, but today it was laying on the steering column.

Every time I work on this thing I miss my 78 Bronco more. I love Ford trucks, been driving them for 22 years, but I can't say I much care for this one at least from a standpoint of working on it. Hey designers, the plugs belong on the side of the heads, please put them back there.

 

4 hrs from pull tab to pull tab, no broken plugs, bolts, sockets or extensions. Originals except for #4 which this is the second COP/plug in 5-6 yrs had 152k on em. Thanks to Racerguy and all those who went before me...

 

1st Irrelavent: I had my truck at the ford dealer yesterday for new treads (245/75R16 Goodyear wrangler duratracs )

2nd Relavent: While there I asked what labor only would cost to replace my plugs (not really having the time right now). I was specifically instructed not to take them in, after all possible damage "the shop guys" could do would cost anywhere from $600-3500. As of right now they are ***** deep in a 4.6L like mine and the owner is going to be out over $800.

So, Ill be making time soon to get this done. I just want to say thank you for opening up this thread. I tell ya a 400M in a 79 F50 with an engine bay that could fit 2 of me with the hood down is tons easier then this. Thanks, hope my input is useful.

Boomer

 

Taking the front wheels off to lower the fenders a foot seems so obvious but an overlooked aid to this miserable job. After spending and entire day, I have only been able to replace #1 and #5 - the two easiest ones. It seems no amount of wiggling and tugging will release the other plug caps. I also found that CoPs are on later models, not on the '98 F150 4.6L engine. I have the misfire codes on #4 and #8 and I can hardly even see those caps let alone wiggle them. Is there some kind of tool? I used a channel lock on the first two but there is no apparent way to maneuver a channel lock to any of the other plug caps. #5 came out fairly easily as it was entirely submerged in probably spilled engine oil. Those two plugs came out readily and the center electrodes worn down to the porcelain and the gap was huge. I'm hoping for some tips to get the other 6 plug caps loose. Lowering the front end sure is a help but still I am not making progress. When I quit last night I was able to get an oil squirt can nozzle in beside the cap and got engine oil into all but #4 and #8. I have 123k miles and other than changing oil, oil filter and air cleaner element and w/s wiper blades and front brake pads, no other work has been needed. But now, with the CEL on and OBD codes for misfire on #4 and #8 I have to get them replaced. This thread is so old I wonder if I'll see any response.

Thanks
--Paul Franz

 

Paul F: my empathy ... dunno about a 4.6 l ford but I read all threads before starting , I went slow, vac, blow, vac, blow out all spark plug holes. The mechanic before me used silicone hence, easy to extract and reuse the boots It sounds like your boots (caps?) are cooked on, hence, plan on replacement and use silicone grease for next time. Use wobbly extension and swivels and piece of hose to extract and reimplant with antiseize. Don't move fuel rails. Don't drop small parts into the engine. Save old plugs and sequence and check for irregularities.
Ed P

 

Last night I fashioned a hose extension on a small hand pump oil squirt can and was able to jam the metal squirt point down beside the boot caps and then pumped solvent down in beside. I now have 6 of the 8 plugs replaced. Still have the two worst ones #4 and #8. Those are very hard to get hold of and now with solvent on them they are slick and really hard to grip. I'm trying to find pliers that will fit in such a small place to grip and wiggle the two back caps off. Of course, those are the two throwing the OBD codes. I did put silicone lube on the boot caps and anti-seize on the plug threads so in another 10 years it will be easier for someone. Hopefully not me.

 

Paul: ok, so now I'm curious as to how the last two plugs look. Be patient. I tied some of the vac tubes and wires back to allow my big hands better access. Ed

 

Well after the 2nd full day of trying everything I could think of to get the rear two cap boots off (#4 and #8) I phoned up Bellevue Auto Electric and have an appointment for the morning. They would have done it for $80 plus taxes. Had I known that, I wouldn't have wasted all that time. I can't recall admitting defeat before on any auto repair job but this was nasty. Sweat dripping off my brow onto my glasses didn't help. That fight sure made changing the oil and topping off air in the tires seem like a reward. I was pretty happy that after all the tugging and twisting there wasn't a new misfire problem. At least it runs smoothly even though it is throwing the misfire code. Probably right at the very end of plug life on #4 and #8.

Thanks for the tips guys.

--Paul Franz

 

...maybe someone who can answer my question will see it or get an email about it. I'm changing the plugs and COPS on my 2001 F150 4.6L. I had to pull the fuel rail on the driver's side to get at #7. In the process, the #6 injector pulled from the manifold. There is what appears to be a ceramic 'cup' sitting in the bottom of the injector port. This 'cup' is cracked in half, and I'm guessing it needs to be replaced? If so, are these 'cups' available individually (where?) or do I have replace the injector? Thanks.<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- / message -->

 

replacing spark plugs in a 5.4 are not as difficult as people say they are! I am 17 years old and i replaced mine in under an hour it just takes patience and multiple joint extensions. The only difficult ones are 1 and 8 so don't sweat it just take your time and anyone can do it.

 

Got all 8 plugs changed on my 2001 with a 5.4.....124k on them.........the cop on #8 has been replaced before.........put a bit of antiseize on the new motorcrafts, and the truck runs alot better......had a misfire on #2.....and when it didnt misfire, it ran ok.....but the new plugs made a difference.........probably will never put plugs in it again, I'll probably sell it before then.......maybe. took me about 2 2 1/2 hours all together.....take your time, and dont rush it......had to pull up the fuel rail on drivers side....to get #7 and #8.....maybe didnt need to, but I did.

 

I think your talking about the plastic cap on the injector? It directs the flow of fuel. If it cracked like mine were it is not hard to fix but needs to be done. I went to my local parts store and got a injector kit (2 orings, the plastic divider peice and the cap for 5 bucks per injector. But they need to be done or you will just waste fuel with them not spraying properly. just pop of the old ones (not very easy but they do come of) and put on the new ones.

 

I am kind of scared to try and replace my plugs and COP because i have heard horror stories about these being a 2 piece plug and that they can seperate very easy on trying to remove them. Is there any truth to this or is it a mechanic just trying to scare me enough so that i will pay him the big bucks to get the job? Could anyone please help out?