Everyone really seems to make it a point to get the Motorcraft. Too many issues when using Autolite/Bosh etc. Stick with the proven plug on this one. It is too time consuming to swap them out later and for the extra $1 per plug.....it is worth it in the end....

 

I was wondering about a proven effective model #. Theres so many different types of Motorcraft plugs. Want to change the boots too.

 

I only have 2 things to add in helping with this project.

1. Perform spark plug changes with a very cold engine, less likely to strip the soft threads in aluminum heads when engine sits overnight. Use torque wrench when installing new plugs @ around 15 ft/lbs (better double check this in your shop manual).

2. I bought a special tool kit for this purpose. A 3 piece 5/8 in. extended universal spark plug socket set. Unique design includes 5/8 in. spark plug socket, universal joint, and extension in one piece. Allows for ultimate access while staying securely attached to the drive tool. Includes 4, 6, and 11 in. lengths in a blow mold storage case. Spark plug stays in magnetic socket when removing/installing spark plug.


KD Tools 3 pc. 5/8 in. Extended Universal Spark Plug Socket Set.
Sears item #00942274000
Mfr. model #KDS41740
$37

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00942274000&ver tical=TOOL&subcat=Sockets&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

 

http://www.motorcraft.com/catalog.do

 

Going to change the plugs within the next 30 days and I was wondering what rubber hose size I should use to spin the plugs in with?

 

You talking about your wife, or your truck, or both!

 

I just used a scrap piece of fuel line. I think standard fuel line is 3/8" ???
Try and get one about 12" long. Sometimes you will be making it into a kind of "S" shape. My brain is not working well, I know I mentioned it when I posted my results a few months back.

 

Just joined the DIY 5.4 spark plug club. 98,700 on the odometer. Have some tips though. I did my plugs in order 1-8, and I totally recommend wearing gloves. Latex are good for keeping your hands clean, but I sliced the @#%^ out of my thumb on #8 trying to break it loose on the oval holes on inside of hood. I did use penatrating oil. Not fun and added hours to my finishing time. I wish I invested in some mechanics gloves. I would recommend keeping your hands clean just in case you have to do emergency first aid on you greased up thumb.

Also my dad invested in a (I'm gonna say) 22" 3/8 extension that totally helped on the drivers side since they are a straight shot. A 7mm swivel socket or 1/4" swivel joint will help with #7 COP screw, it is cramped. The passenger side on the other hand is the opposite. The plugs were awkward on that side and I recommend a 3/8 swivel joint for the #4 spark plug. 6" and shorter extensions and combinations of them will work for removing the plugs. The COP screws are easier on that side.

I had a major problem with sand in the plug holes especially in the #7 and #8 plug holes. I had to keep removing the new plugs in these holes and clean them off over and over to rid the seat and threads of dirt. I did use compressed air but alot of it was caked in there. Used the shop vac and there still was sand in there (although my shop vac has seen better days). I don't know an easier way to get the sand out but at the time that was my only hope.

My truck has had a spark plug repaired before because of a blow out. The other plugs were originals and when I was tightening them I went no further than a few creaks then I stopped. I used anti-seize and silicone for the plug boots. Don't force the COP screws when tightening them, I put a small crack on one of them but it was still secure. I was going to change the boots but they had no cracks in them. Hope everyone uses these tips, they would have helped me, but your mileage may vary. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.

 

Thanks for the tips

 

Lance,

You didn't mention what size motor and vehicle year you changed the plugs on.

 

It's on my profile, 1999 5.4
Haven't driven it enought to calculate gas mileage, but throttle repsonse has increased.

 

Lance,

I had a 1998 F150. It was a good truck. I've changed plugs thruout it's lifetime. I sold it with 198,000 miles on it to a friend. In time you may want to clean out the throttle body where it gets gummed up with tar, but seems more like ashphalt blacktop (no kidding). There's a post to do that somewhere here. Other than that enjoy the truck. I now own a 2005 F150.
Hope to gain insight as to what tools are needed to do that plug replacement.
The motor's a 5.4.

 

I purchased a 5/8 ford deep plug socket with a locking extension from Cornwell. This combo worked beautiful. The locking extension allowed me to start and tighten the plug then pull the socket out.

 

You know I wanted to do that but I was so ready to just button her up I just said oh well. That throttle plate was deceiving though as the front looked semi-clean, but I twisted it back and lo and behold, gummed up. I didn't know if all that would get stuck somewhere either, like in the IAC or something. I feel like I'm putting on a show everytime I pop my hood because my whole street it seems like has to peek over.

 

Thanks to all who have contibuted advice to this thread, I worked up the courage to attempt this on my 97 4.6L with 154k. I got the plugs and wired from directfordparts.com and found the deep snap-on socket on ebay.

All it took was the socket, a 3/8 universal joint, 3 socket extensions and about 2.5 hours of my time. I did not have to remove the fuel rail. The previous owner used autolite plugs and they were pretty worn. Most gapped over .60. I put dielectric grease on all the new plug wires and cleaned the injector contacts before applying grease to those connectors as well.

150 mile later and it still runs great. I did not use anti-seize and the the plugs were not loose so I continue to hope that I won't experience the blow-out problem.