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How to replace your 4.6L & 5.4L spark plugs
#301
I bet this has been asked on this thread, but there is way to many to read threw, so here it goes. Does anybody have trouble getting the boots onto the plugs all the way. I can get my front two all the way down so the rubber is flush with the head, but i cant get any of the others down no matter how hard i push. there like one notch from being sealed tight against the head.
#302
I had one that was hard to put on, I put some grease on the outer edge of the boot too. (there are "Ribs" on there) That helped it slip in better.
Not too sure if it could happen, but check inside the boot. Look at the connector that connects to the tip of the sparkplug. has the connector been crimped/distorted? Also make sure it is in alignment.
Take an old plug and see if it will slip into the boot and make a solid connection. (you don't have to remove the current plug) just do it off to the side.
Not too sure if it could happen, but check inside the boot. Look at the connector that connects to the tip of the sparkplug. has the connector been crimped/distorted? Also make sure it is in alignment.
Take an old plug and see if it will slip into the boot and make a solid connection. (you don't have to remove the current plug) just do it off to the side.
#303
Originally Posted by BURNSTOUGHFORD
I bet this has been asked on this thread, but there is way to many to read threw, so here it goes. Does anybody have trouble getting the boots onto the plugs all the way. I can get my front two all the way down so the rubber is flush with the head, but i cant get any of the others down no matter how hard i push. there like one notch from being sealed tight against the head.
#304
I get so many e-mail notices to this thread. We all have so much fun with these plugs. I took 18 hrs the 1st time (went to bed for 9hrs) but I had one hell of a problem getting #4 boot off. I made the the mistake of putting after market plugs back in and replaced them less than 6 months later with Motorcraft plugs and went for new wires to. Only 2hrs this time. The #4 had a new wire from the 1st battle. 98 extcab/w/8ft box and 338000km. Any ideas why She screams when it is minus 20 and stops after warm up. It doesn't happen when its warmer.
#305
#306
Originally Posted by Racerguy
It looks like it's getting to be time for me to clean out a bunch of posts to shorten up this thread again eh?
I've done that a couple times already but we keep getting more questions and tips
I've done that a couple times already but we keep getting more questions and tips
#308
#310
I just change my spark plugs today on my 2002 5.4 wiht 66,000 km (41,000 mi). They where all tights except #3 plug that came out easily. Maybe more milages and a blown spark plug????
I know it is not very much milage but I dit it as preventive maintenance after reading all the post concerning those blown spark plug.
I know it is not very much milage but I dit it as preventive maintenance after reading all the post concerning those blown spark plug.
#312
Replacing 5.4L Spark Plugs
Replaced my 98' F150 5.4L spark plugs today with Motorcraft AGSF22WM (or SP-479) plugs. I suggest staying with Motorcraft only !
The plugs were pre-gapped to .053" which was perfect.
I started by removing the throttle body cover, plastic intake duct, and power steering bracket holding the reservoir.
Beginning on the driver's side - I found it necessary to remove the fuel delivery rail from the injectors because the two rear plug coils 7mm bolts were too close to the rail to access with a socket or wrench. This made the attack angle on the sparkplug holes easier as well. The spark plugs were previously installed by a Ford Dealer, and they tightened the plugs too much and without anti sieze compound. I blew out the holes with an air gun and applied WD40 in the holes before attempting plug removal. Some of the plugs needed to be partially run out, then back in once to make the removal safely without stripping threads. I was careful at the angle of my tools using force.
The fuel delivery rail retained three of the o-rings inside the rail cups so I had to remove them and re-install them on the injectors before re- installation.
Also the rear injector came loose from the intake manifold and had to be re-installed before putting it back together . Then I accidently dropped one of the injector o-rings down into the engine and had to go to the Napa store.
This caused me some moments of anger - and there were some foul words eminating from the garage. At this point I was considering having the dealer finish the job.
Moving on to the passenger side, I left the fuel delivery rail on.
The rear two spark plugs are very difficult to access and securing back some electrical and hoses helps alot to have an open access to the rear area.
These two back plugs require some long extentions and 3/8" u-joint to remove the 7mm coils and spark plugs themselves. The angle with using a u-joint and extentions was too dangerous to apply much force on the spark plugs . I felt the possibility of breaking the top off these two spark plugs was too great so I slid my long 3/8" flex-ratchet in to break these two loose and tighten them .
I can't stress enough - Be very careful how you remove and install these two rear passenger -side spark plugs !! If you break them off or strip the threads on them it'll cost you dearly !!
It is for these reasons I do not recommend the average weekend mechanic attempt changing spark plugs on the 5.4L engine .............
If you do replace the plugs - make sure you put anti-sieze compound on the threads and carefully tighten the spark plugs with the 3/8" extention and plug socket very straight in the holes.
If you make good money at what you do for a living - then pay the Ford Dealer to do this job - then THEY have to fix it when the plug blows out of the hole a month later !
"Don't try this at home"
The plugs were pre-gapped to .053" which was perfect.
I started by removing the throttle body cover, plastic intake duct, and power steering bracket holding the reservoir.
Beginning on the driver's side - I found it necessary to remove the fuel delivery rail from the injectors because the two rear plug coils 7mm bolts were too close to the rail to access with a socket or wrench. This made the attack angle on the sparkplug holes easier as well. The spark plugs were previously installed by a Ford Dealer, and they tightened the plugs too much and without anti sieze compound. I blew out the holes with an air gun and applied WD40 in the holes before attempting plug removal. Some of the plugs needed to be partially run out, then back in once to make the removal safely without stripping threads. I was careful at the angle of my tools using force.
The fuel delivery rail retained three of the o-rings inside the rail cups so I had to remove them and re-install them on the injectors before re- installation.
Also the rear injector came loose from the intake manifold and had to be re-installed before putting it back together . Then I accidently dropped one of the injector o-rings down into the engine and had to go to the Napa store.
This caused me some moments of anger - and there were some foul words eminating from the garage. At this point I was considering having the dealer finish the job.
Moving on to the passenger side, I left the fuel delivery rail on.
The rear two spark plugs are very difficult to access and securing back some electrical and hoses helps alot to have an open access to the rear area.
These two back plugs require some long extentions and 3/8" u-joint to remove the 7mm coils and spark plugs themselves. The angle with using a u-joint and extentions was too dangerous to apply much force on the spark plugs . I felt the possibility of breaking the top off these two spark plugs was too great so I slid my long 3/8" flex-ratchet in to break these two loose and tighten them .
I can't stress enough - Be very careful how you remove and install these two rear passenger -side spark plugs !! If you break them off or strip the threads on them it'll cost you dearly !!
It is for these reasons I do not recommend the average weekend mechanic attempt changing spark plugs on the 5.4L engine .............
If you do replace the plugs - make sure you put anti-sieze compound on the threads and carefully tighten the spark plugs with the 3/8" extention and plug socket very straight in the holes.
If you make good money at what you do for a living - then pay the Ford Dealer to do this job - then THEY have to fix it when the plug blows out of the hole a month later !
"Don't try this at home"
#313
I'd like to thank everybody who contributed to this guide on spark plug replacement. I succesfully avoided a $280 dealer charge this weekend and swapped in new plugs after 110,000 on the originals in my 2000 5.4L 4x4. Everything went great thanks to the tips offered here. I was surprised how good the old plugs still looked!
To re-enforce some tips already given:
1). Use lots of PB blaster and let it sit for awhile before you remove the old plugs.
2). Buy the swivel head 7mm socket and wobble extensions.
3). put somthing comfy down over the fenders and grill. You're going to spend a lot of quality time there.
4). I'd probably pull the front wheels if I were to do it again soon.
5). I loosened the fuel rails but did not have to pull the injectors.
I don't like the way you can't feel a firm "snap" when you put the COPs back on. There's no positive indication you've got the spring properly seated on the plug until you fire it back up and she runs smooth.
To all you profesional Mechs who get to do this on a regular basis, you deserve every penny you make on this job!
Thanks again!!!!
To re-enforce some tips already given:
1). Use lots of PB blaster and let it sit for awhile before you remove the old plugs.
2). Buy the swivel head 7mm socket and wobble extensions.
3). put somthing comfy down over the fenders and grill. You're going to spend a lot of quality time there.
4). I'd probably pull the front wheels if I were to do it again soon.
5). I loosened the fuel rails but did not have to pull the injectors.
I don't like the way you can't feel a firm "snap" when you put the COPs back on. There's no positive indication you've got the spring properly seated on the plug until you fire it back up and she runs smooth.
To all you profesional Mechs who get to do this on a regular basis, you deserve every penny you make on this job!
Thanks again!!!!
#315
My thanks to everyone who posted a reply on replacing their plugs Awesome Thread!!
I Have 99' F-150 Ext. Cab 4X4 5.4L, 116,700miles.
I'll be the first to admit I bought my plugs and thought I'll change them out one evening after work(No big deal right). Bought the plugs, got home, popped the hood and "What the #*$$ " I couldn't even find them (no laughing now).
A friend at work introduced me to this site and afer reading twenty some odd pages of tips and such for this post I was able to change them out. The cool thing was because of this "Thread" I wasnt surprised about any part of the job. Thanks Guys & Gals for all your replies
I Have 99' F-150 Ext. Cab 4X4 5.4L, 116,700miles.
I'll be the first to admit I bought my plugs and thought I'll change them out one evening after work(No big deal right). Bought the plugs, got home, popped the hood and "What the #*$$ " I couldn't even find them (no laughing now).
A friend at work introduced me to this site and afer reading twenty some odd pages of tips and such for this post I was able to change them out. The cool thing was because of this "Thread" I wasnt surprised about any part of the job. Thanks Guys & Gals for all your replies