I too have had this problem in the past and have found that doing a dry run assembly with a spark plug into the boot while everything is in front of you on top of the engine has allowed me to see what problems I may have with the "fit". This includes makeing sure that the boot connector is properly functioning and connecting to the sparkplug. When needed squeeze the connector a little if needed to produce a tighter fit.

 

I was informed by several mechanics that there is a service bulliten from Ford stating that the thickness arround the sparkplugs (on 5.4L) is pretty thin. If you mistakenly crossthread or don't torque your plugs there is a good possibility that you could shoot your plug off the block.

Are these mechanics stating the truth or just... ?
Thank you.

 

Everyone makes it sound like a nightmare. I'm fixing to do mine, but now I'm a little intimaded by what everyone else has said about theirs. I will let you all know how it went.

 

I guess it is true. The heads are aluminum and if you strip them or cross thread them, they can shoot out. There is a lot of force with compression.

I found this post to be one of the most useful posts so far. I had to do my plugs on the 4.6 with wires. I started on the passenger side since it seemed more accessable. The #4 plug closest to the firewall was a Bit@h! It took 1/2 hour to pop it off. I dug in my tool box and found a tool I picked up somewhere years ago. It turned out to be my savior. I had a pair of "long" needle nose pliers. They are about 10" long. But the tip is on a 90 degree bend. There is about 1" from tip to the bend. This worked so well to grab the wire, twist and pull. the hardest part of the entire install was getting access to grab the boots on the wires.
If your bumming around a tool shop , see if you can find some. I only paid a few bucks. It is a generic brand. I know there is a spark plug boot puller, but I'm not too sure how well it works in these tight spots with stubborn boots.
Anyway, on the passenger side, it seemed easier to unplug the fuel injector connectors. I did not bother removing the fuel rail.
The very first post in this thread is super accurate.
I don't know if anyone stated the fuel line size. but it is 3/8" fuel line. Get a piece about 12" long. You can use it for a few things.
1) when you unscrew your plug, it did not seem to stay in the socket. It stayed in the champer which is like 6" deep. take the fuel line and push it in the chamber it will easily grab the plug.
2) use it to start the new plug to prevent crossthreading with socket.
3) use it at the end of a shop vac to suck out debris. I would break loose an old spark plug and then suck out the chamber. Once the plug was out, I shop vac'd again.
Hope this additional info. helps .
Good luck to all..............

 

that's why i had the dealer do it...expensive, but I don't have the patience...I would've broke more crap...especially when i threw the wrench.

 

Welcome to the forum brickdog

Replacing the plugs is intimidating to start with but you'll probably find that after you're done it wasn't all that bad.

Thanks for the tips 97

 

You bring up a good point Rob.
Not everyone has the patience to do every job.
Or sometimes the skills, or knowledge or tools or just the desire to do it.
That's not a bad thing......if everyone did all their own work some of us would be out of a job

 

I'll tell you what, I don't know what the shop rate or time allotted for a complete spark plug change is , but I give you Ford mechanics credit. I did one, and I am sore. I'm not a big guy and I can flex quite well. But contorting my hands to pull the boots and trying to get leverage on the tall vehicle...forget-about-it.
I'm sure it is a pricey job, but I am also a cheap-o and usually prefer to do things myself. Knowing what I know now...I still would have done it myself. It did take me about 2 1/2 hours. (That damn #4 plug)

 

This isn't a brag - in fact it is something I would really have rather not experienced - but due to a problem with a new set of spark plug wires, a separate problem with the heater hose above the plug leaking (two different times), and what may be turning into a fuel injector malfunctioning, I have had that #4 plug in and out more times than I want to remember, and more than any other plug in the truck. Once you get the hang of it, and have the exact socket(s), wratchet(s) and extensions you wish to use... well, it's still a pain in the ***. I still come out bleeding sometimes, but it does come out in a shorter amount of time.

Geez... next time I'm getting a diesel.

 

I put the di-electric grease on the boot, so I would hope if I had to remove them, they would come out easier next time. I also put a bit of silicone on the outside of the boot on the "ribs" to allow it to release better.
Hopefully I will not have to ever again though. That was my biggest obsticle...the boot. The plug removal was bareable.

 

did you replace the boots?
The mechanic at the stealership recommended it and i tend to go with what they say vs the service advisor....they were $11+ each but figured i might as well go for it.

 

No, I just replaced as they were. I figure I'd hope for it being bad plugs first.
I did not know you could just by the boots. Mine looked o.k, not that the eye will catch the minor problems.
I remember old school wire sets where you would have to crimp etc. I sucked at that and could never get them done well. I then always bought the "Already crimped" wires. It was worth the few bucks extra.....

 

Well I just finished my plug change. 99 F250 SD. I was quite the job. Not really hard but time consuming. Getting the rock and muck out of #3 on the pas. side took at least an hour as I could not even get the socket on the plug. I was starting to wonder if there was even a plug there. The toughest were the #3 on each side.

I think these plugs were original as the smallest gap was.086. I have some pics in my gallery if anyone wants to take a peak.

 

nice pics....you must be happy as heck that those rusty things didn't snap off!

 

You got that right. Suprisingly they came out quite easily. Lots of WD40 down the hole and lots of air to get all the crap out. I backed all the plugs out of the head about half a turn then a shot of WD40 and let them sit for a while blew the crap out and the rest is history.

I was suprised at how much junk gets down the holes, including small rocks.