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How to replace your 4.6L & 5.4L spark plugs

 
  #181  
Old 02-14-2006, 03:18 PM
PhilcoPGM
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Racerguy says 5/8", so it's gotta be that size. But a question for Racerguy>>> Have you ever heard of a plughole that's got so much sand debris down it, that you can't even get a socket on the plug's hexnut? One time, trying to change plugs, the socket kept turning and turning, and not gripping the plug. I thought, oh no,the plug's broken. Looking down the tube with a mirror, I could only see a small piece of metal, and it confirmed that a plug was broken, and I didn't do the previous tuneup...it was the dealer. So here I thought a mechanic broke a plug and never said anything...boy was I wrong! I took it back in to the dealer and they cleaned it out, extracted the plug, and put another plug in it. But they never told me why this occurred, only to have it happen again. Besides water dripping onto the top of the engine, what else may cause "water in the hole", Matie! AAARRRRR!!
 
  #182  
Old 02-14-2006, 04:39 PM
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I don't think I've seen that much sand in them before. You must be special
I've had rocks in the plug holes before though. I have no idea how they got there. I've had a couple that I've actually had to break the porcelain of the plug so I could get the rock out. And it's never a hole that's easy to get to lol
If there is any water on the top of the engine I think that as the engine cools down the water is sucked into the hole. Once there is a bit of water in there it condenses and then when the engine cools down it sucks more in. I'm no scientist....that's just my theory.
 
  #183  
Old 02-25-2006, 06:56 PM
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I have a problem with my #7 on a 4.6 in a 2000 f 150 the cop keeps going out.What can I do to prevent this from happening.
 
  #184  
Old 02-25-2006, 07:07 PM
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Hi and welcome to the forum

How many miles on your spark plugs?
Any sign of water in the plug holes?
Are you using Ford COPS or some cheap knockoffs?
 
  #185  
Old 02-27-2006, 09:24 AM
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Another question for dwcasey - When you replace the cop, are you replacing just the coil, or are you replacing the spark plug as well?
 
  #186  
Old 03-03-2006, 12:37 PM
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How to replace your 4.6L & 5.4L spark plugs

Thanks for the instructions, they were great and I was able to change the plugs in about 15 min/per plug.
 
  #187  
Old 03-03-2006, 07:11 PM
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Hi and welcome to the forum

And you're welcome.
 
  #188  
Old 03-06-2006, 12:01 PM
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I have to give respect to everyone here who managed to change the plugs on the 5.4L engine. I tried to change mine yesterday and after spending about an hour just to get the first plug out, have now given up. So to all who have completed this task I salute you!!

It sucks because the one plug I got out is in bad condition, all rusted up and the electrode is almost gone completely. The truck just passed 100K so I wanted to save some money and change them myself, not only did the old plug prove a bitch to get out, because of all the rust and crap on the thread it took ages to then get the new plug in. Several times I had to put it in, screw it down until it stuck, take it out and clean the thread, apply more grease/WD40 and repeat until plug went in.

I am now trying to find a shop nearby that can change the remaining 7 for me. Not happy as I have never had any problem changing plugs on any previous vehicles. Hoping that a shop does not charge too much to replace them.
 

Last edited by Racerguy; 03-06-2006 at 12:21 PM.
  #189  
Old 03-06-2006, 02:22 PM
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Hello Naiku,
Sorry to hear you've had such a rough time getting the COPS and plugs removed and installed. I just sold my 1998 F 150 truck after 198,000 miles, and although not an expert on that vehicle (at least in the beginning) after you've lived with a truck that long you get really acquainted with its needs, its flaws and just lunge forward until one becomes almost intimately aware of the problems and solutions. In conjunction with this great site and professional guys like Racerguy and his peers and their professional input just about any task we face could be resolved on our own and with a bit of luck and prayers to the man above.
I am now the owner of a new 2005 F150 (4,000) miles currently. I just changed my oil for the first time starting out with Mobil1 synthetic and Mobil filter. What a pain changing the oil first time out of the gate. Needed a cup type filter wrench with an extension, and the oil spills out the built-in plastic spout through the front bumper area and makes a mess. In time, I'll figure out a more efficient way to do this. Now about your difficulty getting the COPS off. Maybe because you waited so long things started to rust, I don't know. More importantly, I don't have a solution to your problem so that you can do the change yourself. I can only suggest doing it more frequently; like at 50,000 miles.
Let this post be the cornerstone for all input for removing the COPS, replacing the COPS, replacing the plugs, testing bad COPS, etc.
Maybe Racerguy can get this going and everyone jump in and reflect your experiences. I for one have a 2005 F150, and I'm guessing Naiku has a 2000?
What tools are best? I heard wobble head extensions are a must. I don't want to be in Naiku's position, and there's a lot of guys who can really benefit from good input here. Thanks in advance.
Philip
 
  #190  
Old 03-06-2006, 02:42 PM
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Hey Philip, you are right mine is a 2000 F-150. I would have done the plugs sooner but have only owned the vehicle since November last year. Even before starting to try and remove the plugs myself I had decided (from reading on sites like this) not to leave them in for more than about 30k miles.
For me personally it's crazy to leave plugs for that amount of time (I am used to changing mine every 20k or so back in the UK). I would still like to change them myself, but just don't have the time to go through and do them, so it looks like this time its going to the shop (especially knowing how worn my old plugs are).
 
  #191  
Old 03-06-2006, 06:26 PM
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Naiku,
And although the plugs may last a very long time the efficiency of them sparking to full capacity is very low...and gas is too expensive. The aluminum heads the sparkplugs get tightened into are fragile also. I heard only to use 13 pounds of torque. With that little torque the plugs in my estimation won't stay tight for a very long time;for as long as 50,000 miles or more; so I feel its best to ignore all of Ford's sales publicity of longer maintenance intervals for the more commonsence approach of better fuel efficiency.
I used to change my old plugs on the 98 F150...a pain, yes...knuckle scratching and bleeding is guaranteed. But at least I know it was done correctly each step of the way. Dielectric grease on electric contacts; antisieze on the threads, and all 8 plugs get replaced, even the ones behind the firewall. And all the sand gets blown out of the tubes before the plugs are extrracted to keep the compression chamber clean of grit.
Philip
 
  #192  
Old 03-10-2006, 10:46 PM
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I'd like to thank everyone who's contributed to this thread. I just got a 2000 E150 Club Wagon last month (haven't even made the first payment yet!) and I had the 1 & 5 coils go out on me a couple days ago. I grabbed a set of Motorcraft plugs and 2 COPs at Autozone and swapped the two I needed to get me by until the boots come in from Advance (better price the Autozone).

She runs great again and it doesn't seem like it'll be too hard of a job, just a little time consuming. It looks like I can do the 1-2-3-5-6-7 from the front and I'll only have to pull the dog house for 4-8. These Mod motors are easy after wrenching on 3rd and 4th gen F-bodies. Haha.

Thanks again everyone, my new tow vehicle is just about ready to go again
 
  #193  
Old 03-10-2006, 11:21 PM
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Welcome to the forum nape

What do you tow with your van?
 
  #194  
Old 03-11-2006, 10:27 PM
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Hopefully, my '90 Firebird that I run with NASA. The first date is Easter weekend, so I'm glad these failed now and not then. It'd be hell towing 150 miles home on 6 cyls. I think the van will be able to handle a 2800lb car on a 1200lb Featherlite AL trailer that my buddy is letting me borrow. If not, it'll be time to do some more research here on helper springs.

I'm going through the driver education program with it right now and hope to have my competition license by the end of the year.

I don't want to clutter the thread, so here's a link to the race car (sorry don't have one of the van yet): '90 Firebird
 
  #195  
Old 03-11-2006, 10:36 PM
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Do you have to have your competition license to race just certain classes or any NASA races?
I race a stock car at our local track.
 

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