I am new to the site and I am in the market for a new to me truck. I have came across a 1983 F150 4x4 with the 4.9 300 L6 and a 4 speed straight. In pictures, it has a good straight body minus the typical rust I have noticed on most of the older trucks I have seen. I was hoping I could get some imput or pointers on what to look for specific to the model year and engine. I am not ignorant to basic mechanical knowledge but far from a skilled one. The asking price is 1500 but I am pretty sure I can lighten it down a bit. I am meeting him this afternoon to take a look personally. Thanks for any help you might have.

Marty

 

Are you talking about the one in Lexington??The one on clist doesn't look too bad. Usually they rust over the wheel wells, and openings. Check floor boards. 300 is a good engine. Rear spring hangers hold dirt and will rust through as well as rear top shock mounts. I'm just N of you near Stuart. Aside from checking brakes, ball joints and other mechanicals, thats about it.

 

As a reference, I paid $700 (too much) for the non-running '82 F150 described below with no rust and a fairly straight body and bed.

Last week there was a '81 SWB non-running on a lot for $400, but it did have rust awa lots of other prob's. But, I'm STILL kicking myself that I didn't buy it.

 

Yeah thats the one! Thanks for the tips, I will add checking the springs and top of shock mounts to the list. I am going to look at it in about an hour so I hope its all he said it is. If so I will be driving it home. It surprised me you knew which one I was talking about. Anyways, i will post more after I have looked at it. thanks again!
Does the price seem fair?

 

Prices seem higher in NC and VA than in NY. Don't have the salt rust problems present as in the North -even though NC has been spreading a brine mixture on the roads for a few years now. But go for $1000 and see.

 

Kinda depends on your area. I would say if I could get him down around a grand I would probably do it if the truck ran well with no issues. Trucks this old are hard to find without any rust or anything like that.

 

I will do that(offer a $1000) besides he said he hasn't had any other lookers yet and its been on for a few days. Every truck I have looked at around this price and year has had too many problems i.e rear main seal leaking and/or obvious wreckage, high miles that weren't disclosed. I am trying to be patient but I need another ride asap! I know not to expect a lot for 1500 but I cant afford to throw it away

 

Thanks again everyone I really appreciate the imput!!

 

Let us know how you make out.

 

I went to check it out. I was impressed, the body was in good shape with minor rust only a small ding in the front driver fender and the grill insert is gone, the engine ran fine like a champ really, the the interior is in good shape. I offered him a 1000 and thats what he took. I drove it to the store3 miles away, shut it off and put some petro in the tank. Get back in and it wont start, the solenoid was making a racket and thats all it wouldn't turn over. So I go to the parts store get a replacement and replace. Now it won't turn over but the solenoid is quite as well as everything else. First couple of turns the dash lights lit up but that was all that happened. No dash lights no head lights, nothing so I reluctantly had to leave it in the store parking lot because my girl and her kid were with me and I had to get them home. Rough night. Trying now to figure out why it would just die all of the sudden. I am going to replace the battery and ground wire which is corroded(already planned) and check fuses. Any other suggestions of what I could try?

 

Congrat's! But, it sounds to me like the battery is dead. Why is a big question. Driving it 3 miles should have charged it up enough to turn over - assuming the alternator is working. My bet is that it isn't.

But, that could be due to the belt, or the alternator, or the regulator. Mine threw the belt, or broke it, before the alternator itself failed, and that took the regulator.

 

Most of the time this is just dirty terminals. I have owned a lot of older fords, and had the same type of thing happen (many times actually). Starts and runs all day long running errands all over town, then stop for gas before heading home and no start. Clean the posts and clamps before you do anything else. Then have the battery tested. They like to fail rather abruptly if they have been sitting for a long time. Then move on to the alternator, voltage regulator, solenoid etc., no-start can sure be inconvenient but don't let it spoil the mood! You got a nice truck! The 300 is a great engine

 

Thank You! I am really excited to get her running again I may change the regulator and alternator tomorrow as well its only about 65 bucks more. I am frustrated though. I wish it could have made it home. Oh well, guess I will have to wait and see what tomorrow brings. Thanks for the help!!!

 

The solenoid clicking is a sign of a dead or weak battery. Also could be bad connections. Was it already running when you went to see it?

 

The battery was in need of replacement which the seller told me. He said he charged it earlier in the day it started fine when I got there I had to leave and come back to pick it up with another driver. It started fine when I returned. I guess I just thought it may be more than the battery because it was only 3 miles down the road and it had just started and I tried to jump it off with my car several times. I know however from past experience a dead battery can do crazy things, alternators too. I am taking a new battery on return and a new ground cable, it is frayed and corroded before the clamp. I am still confused as to why it couldn't be jumped off though.