is 2.5 big enough pipe or should u go bigger like 3"....i think this is a good point to make cuz they sell exhaust kits everywhere for varying prices.... we no what the good tune up will do so coupled with the proper exhaust there could be gains on the mpg front.

 

Sure, if you buy a one-off-the shelf kit. But you can build a nice little box to utilize a larger filter element and eliminate under hood temperatures screwing with your air charge. $30 in materials (minus filter). And intake charge temperatures dropped, rwhp went up, and gas mileage went up (marginally). Not only does the above setup utilize a large filter element without heatsoak, it is a direct shot into the upper intake plenum (e.g. less friction) than the stock plumbing.
Here is an example of one https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...and-cheap.html
Careful. While, in general you are correct. There are some caveats to that statement. These same folks will also tell you to get shorty headers, which are a complete waste on these trucks. Only the off the shelf CAI kits with massive heat soak issues should you avoid (which is all of em! ). The true exhaust bottleneck is at the Y pipe and the ancient catalytic converter technology. A new Y-pipe and a high flow cat and stock manifolds will put more power to the wheels than a shorty headers using the OEM y-pipe and cats.
The truck does respond well to intake improvements, just not how they come from K&N. Especially the MAF powered trucks.
We have dyno tested this ad nauseum when we put together my intake. Unfortunately, the kits I've seen all utilize an open filter element. Build a box around any other higher efficiency filter, and you will see improvements as is found in a true CAI. I have seen the dyno's before and after with my setup. A +10whp/8ftlb gain through a torque converter, transfer case, gears and tires is no laughing matter on these under-powered trucks. My only worry was hydro lock and debris issues at the time we built it (2007). Since then, not one hiccup. In general, you are correct. But be careful what you suggest for folks. Some guys are competent enough with their hands to build a similar box. I have seen two other folks from this forum (Chris89, and Ronny) build this same box from my pictures. Both gentleman were very happy with their results.

To the OP, ditching the stock exhaust (especially the Y-pipe) system including manifolds, is your best bang for buck option for adding performance to the 5.0 or 5.8. The Y-pipe and cat setup is especially restrictive. And if you keep your foot off the throttle afterwards, you may gain some mpg's.

Great point! A MAF powered 5.0 will show a significant gain when the exhaust is set up properly. However, the SD 5.0 truck with stock manifolds will not show anything.

The 5.8 is a completely different animal however. Especially with the runner design on the intake. To me it seems the intake runners should be swapped from the 5.0 to the 5.8 based on their current design...but that's another argument. The 5.8 can and will show great gains when the intake charge is actually improved. This works for SD and MAF controlled 5.8's...unlike the 5.0.

If they are built right (and it does not cost a lot of money folks..) there is much to be improved on the intake charge for SBF truck motors especially. Unfortunately, we are given the raw deal with the off the shelf kits.

 

thats good to know. i would love to add a similar set up and will probly do so tis spring... im gonna completely rebuild my exhuast so i guess this is a great answer for the OP

 

A 3" single is IMO the best set up for our trucks.
Our trucks are unfriendly to duals with the fuel tank set up, not impossible by any means, to run nice duals, just easier and cheaper to run a 3" single.

 

I didnt see any mention of the air horn removal,but that alone will give a good boost to the seat of the pants feel, and is free.

 

Thanks FTE fans.
SO far I have gathered this solid info from around the web and you.

-Underdrive pullies (I have these on my 351 performance built MarkVII)

-Remove baffles from bottom of factory airbox - or custom CIA.
(THinking some kind of PCV with rubber hose - 2 into 1 pipe with large K&N over in the fender, since it is SD, that is simple and have done this on SD stangs)

-180 degree thermostat (this was a reccomendation, not sure what is in it now)

-3" cat-back

-Electric cooling fan

-bump timing up 3-4 degrees, along with tune up (plugs/wires/cap/rotor)

-ditch the air pump with short pully, plug off EGR - or like I have done on stangs, fool the EGR with resistors

-Ditch the BADifolds for some LT headers...why not shorties?


The pullies, E fan, air pump delet always have a seat of the pants effect on the 5.0 Stang throttle response and feel, I only feel it will do the same here.

I hope to put 34/35" tires...35's rubbed at full lock on my 89 no chassis lift, and I assume they will do the same again here, but not scared.


1)So, tell me more about "Leveling kit" vs 2" susension lift...are they the same thing?
2)What is a 6L upgrade?

Lastly, again thanks for the info.
Oddly enough my MarkVII has a 351 intended built for a truck...is is bored out to a 358, wild cam, and has 400M (modified) motor rods in it, makeing it a LONG ROD motor. The guy who built it said they used to do this for more torque (Lincolns are heavy) and there was PROOF the upgrade did a lot for MPG.
I do not have any intention of modifying my current 351 in the truck...but hmm.....

 

Shorty headers do free up the exhaust a little, but will show Very little increase in tq, sometimes reducing it.
a leveling kit will only lift the front of the truck to match the rear, so the truck will look level.
Removing the air pump and plugging the egr will be a waste of time. It will likely only cause headaches and hurt the value of the truck, plus it is very unlikely you will see any gain in power.

 

1. Shorties are a waste. The bottleneck is the stock Y-pipe and cat setup....downstream of the manifolds. You can have the baddest shorty headers in the world... and they won't do a lick to help the exhaust issues downstream. Long tube headers with a new Y-pipe or don't even bother.

2. Underdrive pulleys work well. Nothing spectacular. I have the FRPP set on my truck for several years. Don't expect any "wow" factor.

3. OEM thermostat. Do not change to a 180*. Your engine coolant sensor will not be happy. More harm than good possible with this swap.

4. NGK plugs gapped to 0.055" and quality 9mm wires. You should be able to get your timing at 14-15* BTDC. If you want to run 89 or higher octane fuel, you can get the timing up even higher without knock. FWIW..I'm at 19* on iron E7TE heads and 91 octane. Just for comparison...with motorcraft plugs I can't pull more than 15 or 16* timing without knocking...even with 91 octane.

5. EGR and Air pump delete will not add any power....unless you have a vacuum leak in the system currently. Been there...and dyno'ed that. As a matter of fact, you may lose a smidgen of MPG efficiency by removing the system. Remember, your truck is tuned to breathe that regurgitated air. Just check the vacuum lines and the EGR solenoid for leaks. Local pick and pulls will give you an entire egr system for $50 or less.

6. If you want 35" tires to fit properly. You will need at least 3" of lift minimum. Rough country makes two very well built kits for our pickups for very cheap. They also properly line up your radius arms with brackets, so that your steering geometry is not thrown out the window in the guise of lifting your truck. IMO... some of the high end lift kits are quite dangerous to drive in. You know the saying..a poor performance part may leave you stranded... but suspension issues kill people.

7. You haven't mentioned gears. If you're running 35" of tire, you may need to consider a bump to 3.73 or 4.10 or you may be very disappointed in the low end grunt even if the 5.8 is breathing great.

8. Intake modifications do make quite an impact on the 5.8 system. That is, if you actually improve upon the current system. This is especially true, if you allow the 5.8 to exhale better with a full header and exhaust system.

9. What about brakes!!?!? When you lift your truck and add larger tires, your braking ability greatly diminishes. A caliper fresh up (lube pins, clean and check piston), stainless lines in the front, a set of slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads tied in with a brake flush and your passengers will need a helmet when you put the left pedal to the floor. All that... and it may cost you $200 total.

I am speaking from my experience on SBF powered trucks and the mistakes I've made. Hope this helps!!

Mike

 

super thanks.
I always use NGK, learned about their quality with cycles/ATV's many years ago...two stroke guys know plugs

I did say 35"...but I think I made a mistake...I might be talking about 33" that I had on my 89...I will have to call my new owner and ask what I had on there. They were just left overs from the local 4x4 club members. They rubbed at full lock.

 

I forgot to mention... the 180* thermo. is an especially bad idea with a PCM controlled transmission (e.g. E4OD, 4r70w). If your PCM can't get itself squared away in loop, your shift strategies will get sloppier and sloppier...AKA limp mode. Don't do it.

And old pushrod Ford motors love the NGK plugs!! As do my 2 stroke outboard comrades.
They are a kickass spark plug for sure. I was shocked that I gained almost 5* of timing (and quite a bit of *pep*) by switching from Motorcraft (aka..autolite) to NGK. Nothing else changed. Same Chevron 91 octane.

 

You raise a good point on the tstat, my MarkVII has a 160 in it, and only after getting the motor running, and smelling fumes for miles, AND pulling codes, did I find it was not going closed loop.....due to....not at temp.

But the EEC has to see 180, and I guess a 180 is still not close enough?

 

Run the OEM thermostat. If I recall correctly, it's a 195* thermostat.

A not at temp SBF with the E4OD or 4r70w will cause more frustration than a poor running motor not in closed loop.

 

Yes run a standard 195*fail safe stat.

 

Unless you have a custom tune , then you can run what ever you want , some guys say they can get away with the 180 ? but i would use the 195 like above to stay in closed loop...Lew

 

My apologies for thread jacking, but which NGK plugs? Copper?

I'm also going to be working on my new to me Centurion soon, same engine and trans, so I'll be paying particular attention here. Mr. M, thanks for the info!