4bbl towing
I would say a 4bbl intake with a big 2bbl would make great torque, but I don't see why a small 390 cfm 4bbl wouldn't do the same. Make sure your engine is in good running order before you throw all that power at it. I made the mistake of over carbing my high mileage motor with a weak cylinder. It runs way better than it did, but I just could not get the 4bbl to run right(bad bogs), and neither could some very experienced Q-Jet guys. The problem was my motor is not strong enough anymore for a Q-Jet It now has a 21?? 2bbl off of a 390, but I have yet to drive it. I learned my lesson to stay small for now. Good luck.
As lacking as the stock head is in the flow department, you should be wanting to do everything you can to improve the flow.
A full port and polish job will most definitely include matching the manifold ports to the head ports (or "gasket matching").
So why not at least port match while you have the manifolds off (I did) but aren't quite ready to tear down the head completely?
An eighth of an inch of port sticking up into the path of flow between your intake manifold and intake valve isn't going to help your power whatsoever (and this was consistent for each port when I did my swap).
Just my 2cents.
As lacking as the stock head is in the flow department, you should be wanting to do everything you can to improve the flow.
A full port and polish job will most definitely include matching the manifold ports to the head ports (or "gasket matching").
So why not at least port match while you have the manifolds off (I did) but aren't quite ready to tear down the head completely?
An eighth of an inch of port sticking up into the path of flow between your intake manifold and intake valve isn't going to help your power whatsoever (and this was consistent for each port when I did my swap).
Just my 2cents.
Gaskets are seals, not porting templates.
Ninety percent of the improvement from porting involves the area near the valve seats. If I'm paying someone to port heads I want them to spend their time where it makes the maximum improvement.
Sure, I'm planning to do a proper port and polish at some point. But that is more time and effort than I have to spare until it is time for a full rebuild.
You don't want to just go hacking away at the ports based on the fit of the gasket. I checked and re-checked the gasket shape against the manifolds before I did anything, and this showed me that the manifold ports were symmetrical and the exact same size as the gasket. The head ports were significantly misshapen and smaller than the manifolds. So, really, you are port matching.
I feel it was well worth the couple hours I spent on it, and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again on another engine.
Can U tell me which "granny 4 speed" that is/was? W/33" & 3.55 I'd like to get a sense of yer meaning. Will look up the 4 ratios if U tell me the transmission.
Again, the original post wuz about "a 4V or not".
You have to remember, I don't tow a lot, I don't drive hard, and I'm not an overly flashy guy. If you are those things, a 460 is probably better
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
No bud, don't go to the trouble...
U mentioned a stock crew cab w/300 but not yr. Is the transm original, I'll look it up that way.
If (BW) T19 I figure that evolved outta the T18 (just syncro) which I think came from the (NP) 435, so 19 had 3 options:
4.02 2.41 1.41 1
5.11 3.03 1.79 1
6.32 3.09 1.68 1
We aren't talkin bout it here (cept towin) but all had 6.96 Reverse. But 33"/3.55 sounds interesting. May B the 2V (or even 4V) might B "it". But these motors have power @ 1500 -2800 so I still don't get how to help this fella in carb choice.
So I'll juss sign off "Still learnin" (esp w/carbs for Tq not HP).
As far as torque, I believe that smaller intake runners help torque. The problem is that they limit upper RPMs because they can't physically flow enough.
Anyway, the motor is best in lower revs, no? I could B wrong but higher don't get tq or hp. Power band is 1500 - 2800 RPM w/this one. I got the 250/4.1 (300's lill' bro. It has 240 tq @ 1600, 155 hp @ 3600) another low rev/hi grunt I 6 engine.
I bet that 250 would be fun in a pipe mud / sand buggy..
EDIT: Hey Chad what's that 250's bore and stroke if you know?
250's bore and stroke:
3.68" X 3.91"
Some of the 'hot' motors are called 'square' (ie equal on both sz.).
They R usually 4 cyl tho. Nice thing about a sq design? good power in any gear @ any rev.
Sound familure (4.9)? Yepers, 240/300 evolved outta em (1st wuz the 144 - answer to the VW bug invasion on Amer. auto industry. Grew to 170 (oem in the bronk, gettin tired tho) 200, 250 [Aussie's put the cross flow head/intake on em n raced the heck outta em] all 'small six'; then on to yourn 'the bix six'). 250's only small six w/a bell to take all the standard FSB trannys.
We share the same internal balance (no added weights needed) fly wheel but that's it. Wish it had the intake U guys got.Just gotta get a job so I can put it in bronk (needs some prts 2 get there). I got another 4 sale - anyone?...
Thanx 4 your interest (it IS listed in THIS forum n why I joined ya'll).
That's really cool. So I wonder if the 250 is easier to fit in vehicles than the 300 is? I bet the 250 would make a really neat project engine..
sz: 10 1/16 high, top of pan to top of block, weight: 420 lbs. Way,way shorter than that train engine of a motor the 300 is. I'd hafta move the fire wall or radiator to stick the 300 in. Wish I could, like it ALOT, beyond my skill, time, tools, money, etc (but plenty do it!).
Hey, U get the sno like the rest of us? Gunna B some dangerously hi H20 tables in West by God if so!








