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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #16  
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I know regearing would be the way to go for the bigger tires but that's not in the budget, main focus is getting the truck together. I drive a 300 every day with 3.08s and 32s so I'm not expecting gobs of power I just want to move a little better than my 95 with the details mentioned does.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 11:08 PM
  #17  
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I still say gears. Gears. Gears. Gears. Gears.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 11:38 PM
  #18  
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If I had a 300 with 3.08 gears, and 32inch tires I would want an automatic or a granny gear otherwise I'd kill it all the time. I guess the 300 is the perfect motor for gears like that, but 3.55-3.73 is the way to go in my opinion.
I would say a 4bbl intake with a big 2bbl would make great torque, but I don't see why a small 390 cfm 4bbl wouldn't do the same. Make sure your engine is in good running order before you throw all that power at it. I made the mistake of over carbing my high mileage motor with a weak cylinder. It runs way better than it did, but I just could not get the 4bbl to run right(bad bogs), and neither could some very experienced Q-Jet guys. The problem was my motor is not strong enough anymore for a Q-Jet It now has a 21?? 2bbl off of a 390, but I have yet to drive it. I learned my lesson to stay small for now. Good luck.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by newrider3
I'm still not quite sure where this notion comes from.
As lacking as the stock head is in the flow department, you should be wanting to do everything you can to improve the flow.
A full port and polish job will most definitely include matching the manifold ports to the head ports (or "gasket matching").
So why not at least port match while you have the manifolds off (I did) but aren't quite ready to tear down the head completely?
An eighth of an inch of port sticking up into the path of flow between your intake manifold and intake valve isn't going to help your power whatsoever (and this was consistent for each port when I did my swap).

Just my 2cents.
Makes sense to me. I have yet to P&P my head. I just know that in all my inquiries and the posts that I've read, it's been recommended against. I believe it had to do with having a negative impact on the low RPM performance of the head, moving it up into an RPM range that was less usable for the 300.

Originally Posted by F250-Restorer
AB: You should PM the moderator and ask them to put that post in the 'T's & Tricks' sticky. Unless you'd like to post another thousand times.
Lol, I'm used to posting the same pics a dozen times. But that's a good idea.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:17 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by newrider3
I'm still not quite sure where this notion comes from.
As lacking as the stock head is in the flow department, you should be wanting to do everything you can to improve the flow.
A full port and polish job will most definitely include matching the manifold ports to the head ports (or "gasket matching").
So why not at least port match while you have the manifolds off (I did) but aren't quite ready to tear down the head completely?
An eighth of an inch of port sticking up into the path of flow between your intake manifold and intake valve isn't going to help your power whatsoever (and this was consistent for each port when I did my swap).

Just my 2cents.
Port matching is good, but unless the gasket perfectly matches the ports, etc. gasket matching might actually make things worse. Beyond that, there's not much gain to be had fiddling with the ports unless they're badly mismatched. And on a 300 there just isn't enough room for there to be big mismatches. Unless, maybe, you're stuck with a really poor casting.

Gaskets are seals, not porting templates.

Ninety percent of the improvement from porting involves the area near the valve seats. If I'm paying someone to port heads I want them to spend their time where it makes the maximum improvement.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:05 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BaronVonAutomatc
Ninety percent of the improvement from porting involves the area near the valve seats. If I'm paying someone to port heads I want them to spend their time where it makes the maximum improvement.
10 percent is 10 percent. And if I can do it for FREE, I'll do it all day long.
Sure, I'm planning to do a proper port and polish at some point. But that is more time and effort than I have to spare until it is time for a full rebuild.

You don't want to just go hacking away at the ports based on the fit of the gasket. I checked and re-checked the gasket shape against the manifolds before I did anything, and this showed me that the manifold ports were symmetrical and the exact same size as the gasket. The head ports were significantly misshapen and smaller than the manifolds. So, really, you are port matching.

I feel it was well worth the couple hours I spent on it, and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again on another engine.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:28 PM
  #22  
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teds74ford-
Can U tell me which "granny 4 speed" that is/was? W/33" & 3.55 I'd like to get a sense of yer meaning. Will look up the 4 ratios if U tell me the transmission.
Again, the original post wuz about "a 4V or not".
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 06:24 AM
  #23  
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I will have to crawl under and look when I get to work (where I keep my crew) but I think it is a T18. Both the T18 and the 435 have a 1:1 4th gear ratio, so cruising is the same, but the T18 has a 6.32 1st vs the 435 having a 6.68 first gear ratio.

You have to remember, I don't tow a lot, I don't drive hard, and I'm not an overly flashy guy. If you are those things, a 460 is probably better
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:37 AM
  #24  
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From: Lawrence Swamp
Crawl under?
No bud, don't go to the trouble...
U mentioned a stock crew cab w/300 but not yr. Is the transm original, I'll look it up that way.
If (BW) T19 I figure that evolved outta the T18 (just syncro) which I think came from the (NP) 435, so 19 had 3 options:
4.02 2.41 1.41 1
5.11 3.03 1.79 1
6.32 3.09 1.68 1
We aren't talkin bout it here (cept towin) but all had 6.96 Reverse. But 33"/3.55 sounds interesting. May B the 2V (or even 4V) might B "it". But these motors have power @ 1500 -2800 so I still don't get how to help this fella in carb choice.
So I'll juss sign off "Still learnin" (esp w/carbs for Tq not HP).
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 06:38 AM
  #25  
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It's a 78 crew. It was a forest service truck, so it is VERY stock. Govt doesn't swap anything.

As far as torque, I believe that smaller intake runners help torque. The problem is that they limit upper RPMs because they can't physically flow enough.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 07:06 AM
  #26  
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From: Lawrence Swamp
OK, so it's a T19 then?
Anyway, the motor is best in lower revs, no? I could B wrong but higher don't get tq or hp. Power band is 1500 - 2800 RPM w/this one. I got the 250/4.1 (300's lill' bro. It has 240 tq @ 1600, 155 hp @ 3600) another low rev/hi grunt I 6 engine.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 10:46 AM
  #27  
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Dadgum Chad. That 250 is amost a clone of the carb'd 300's. Your 250 actually makes more horsepower than the EFI 300's!

I bet that 250 would be fun in a pipe mud / sand buggy..

EDIT: Hey Chad what's that 250's bore and stroke if you know?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #28  
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From: Lawrence Swamp
250's bore and stroke

Originally Posted by 6CylBill
Hey Chad what's that 250's bore and stroke if you know?
Billyam!

250's bore and stroke:
3.68" X 3.91"

Some of the 'hot' motors are called 'square' (ie equal on both sz.). They R usually 4 cyl tho. Nice thing about a sq design? good power in any gear @ any rev. Sound familure (4.9)? Yepers, 240/300 evolved outta em (1st wuz the 144 - answer to the VW bug invasion on Amer. auto industry. Grew to 170 (oem in the bronk, gettin tired tho) 200, 250 [Aussie's put the cross flow head/intake on em n raced the heck outta em] all 'small six'; then on to yourn 'the bix six'). 250's only small six w/a bell to take all the standard FSB trannys. We share the same internal balance (no added weights needed) fly wheel but that's it. Wish it had the intake U guys got.

Just gotta get a job so I can put it in bronk (needs some prts 2 get there). I got another 4 sale - anyone?...

Thanx 4 your interest (it IS listed in THIS forum n why I joined ya'll).
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #29  
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Chad that stroke is LOOOONG, especially for a 250! That's nearly the same size stroke as a 300 (3.98''. Or is that the bore?)

That's really cool. So I wonder if the 250 is easier to fit in vehicles than the 300 is? I bet the 250 would make a really neat project engine..
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 08:18 PM
  #30  
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From: Lawrence Swamp
bore 1st, stroke 2nd.
sz: 10 1/16 high, top of pan to top of block, weight: 420 lbs. Way,way shorter than that train engine of a motor the 300 is. I'd hafta move the fire wall or radiator to stick the 300 in. Wish I could, like it ALOT, beyond my skill, time, tools, money, etc (but plenty do it!).

Hey, U get the sno like the rest of us? Gunna B some dangerously hi H20 tables in West by God if so!
 
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