Its just that you can get so much better.

When asking for help with stereos everyone needs to answer these 3 questions.

Whats your budget?
What music do you listen to?
Can you build a subwoofer box?

 

I built some sub boxes a while back there is a formula for the box size to get the rite
back pressure for the speakers to preform rite. should find it on line.
I put them in a ext cab s10 with a good amp ,tweeters ,mids all with good wires
the subs had big wires with gold plugs.
This was years back listening to rock
MY EARS ARE STILL RINGING AND I CAN'T HEAR VERY GOOD. Low frequncy sound will hurt your ears with high db
Don't rattle your brain.

 

i know this post is kind of old but i have two ten in kicker comps running off of an 250w clarion amp and i was wondering if i could get the dimensions for the box so i can build one with it

 

Guess your the guy that commented on my video on YouTube.

Do you have a bench seat? You want ported or sealed box? Amp is small for 2 comp 10s.

 

I currently have 2 10s behind the bench seat of my 85 reg cab, they hit real nice, and no issues with rattling surprisingly. i found a good mounting point for the amp is to bolt it directly to the back wall of the cab (i just used self-tappers) running a 600 watt amp with 4ga directly to the battery, 2 6" sony xplods in the doors, and a dual head unit ($50 at walmart) for the low budget system i'm running i'm amazed with the sound quality. Just make sure the amp has enough room to breath and that the cones of the subs don't hit the back of the seat.

 

Yea i have benched seats and i know im about to get an 1800 watt amp and ported

 

If I remember right, Kicker has the specs for all their subs on their site. Just got to know what model sub you have. For most Kicker 10 in I think it was .5-.75 cubic feet per sub. If you go ported, what are you tuning the box to? Sealed is usually easier and more forgiving for the beginer.

 

okay then i mighht want to go sealed

 

An 8" bazooka doesn't really fit. I massaged the rear of my cab to get it to work without having to have the seat too far forward. It sounded really good. The amp died and I built a 2-10 box and used a cheapy pepboys sub/amp kit.

I had pictures somewhere but that was many computers ago. Basically it was two boxes with a common back and bottom that left a space in the middle. That's where I put the amp. It sounded great in the cab but definitely wasn't something you'd hear a mile away...

I want to say the amp only had 40 or 50w per channel RMS.

Unless you're trying to win awards, box design isn't critical. Make sure you don't have any leaks as they can whistle and just make it as best you can. My boxes were small for the subs I used and they didn't need big boxes to begin with. I would also go sealed as the calculations are easier. With a sealed system a smaller box will have a punchier sound but not as much volume as a proper box with the same amp.

8's or 10's work good with a modest amount of power to round out the sound system. You can get high level adapters but I've always used aftermarket radios with low level line outs. If you really want hard hitting, shake everything base that you can hear a mile away, rip out the bench and put in some buckets and run the sub between the seats.

 

the thing is i know my subs can hit hard and they arent in the correct box ans with an 1800 watt amp i know they will hit harder with the proper settings and a good box

 

There was no way for me to make a "proper" box for my 86. So you do the best you can and go with it. It still sounds great. I'm absolutely positive if you had a proper box it would be better.

In addition to interior volume there is a ratio between the height, width and depth. So even with the proper volume if the ratio's are off you could loose quality and volume.

When I was a teenager it was cool to build systems that could bounce silver dollars off the roof but now that I'm in my 30's I just want a system that has a nice full sound with good overhead. The one thing I hate most is when you crank it up and it starts clipping.

 

Hmmm okay i hear where you are coming from is there anyway you can send me the specs to the boxes im 17 and i want a good system that you can hea routside the truck and really good inside but not to the point qhere someone can hear me down the road

 

Well my cousin has my 86, so I can't get actual measurements but I did some quick measurements from my 87 F250 RC which should be the same. Here's a quick drawing. I would make it out of cardboard first and test fit it. You will likely loose a click or two from your seat; I lost the rear most click on my 86. Also, you'll have to remove the cardboard divider from behind the seat and position your sub(s) to clear. The biggest issue is mounting depth. There is 4" or so, but using 3/4 MDF you'd have a little more than that top mounted, maybe as much at 4-3/4". The lower you mount the subs the more mounting depth you have and 8's would give you more room than 10's.

I would make the box 24" long and use a single Rockford Fosgate R2SD2-10 sub. Get a 400w peak amp that can either do 2x2 ohms or 1x4 ohms. The amp should produce ~80-100w per channel RMS or 200w RMS total.

Alternatively, two 8" JBL GTO804's in that same box with a 2x200w RMS amp (800 Peak) would work. The JBL's work in VERY small boxes. They only need .3 cu/ft. They are also a more efficient speaker but overall this combo will be more expensive.

First thing is to build a template box out of cardboard. I've included the approximate outside dimensions. Make sure it fits and adjust accordingly. Then build the regular box out of 3/4 MDF. You can get a 4x8 sheet at home depot for $35 or so... You'll have plenty to make multiple boxes or to mess up a few times with cuts. The angle cut is going to be the hardest and when I did it I made the 3 other sides, screwed them together into a "C" shape and eyeballed the rest.

Oh, and you'll need to make side covers or end caps for each end of the box to seal it up. The box will be 24" wide inside and 25.5" outside.

At about 26" wide you can mount it to one side or the other and mount the amp on the other side.

Both systems will sound great in the cab. It's personal preference which one you go for. Some people need to see speakers in pairs...

Also, if you look at other speakers or if you have some, make sure the mounting depth is ok and check the recommendations for box volume. 24" wide = ~ .75cu/ft, 36" wide = ~1.1cu/ft and 48" wide = ~1.5cu/ft. At 48" wide you will start to run out of room for an amp and may have to mount it under the seat.

Oh, and one more important thing. Your cuts don't have to be perfect but should be close. Seal everything up with silicone calk as best you can but, and this is important, allow the silicone to cure for at least 48hrs before you put your speakers in. The silicone fumes can and will eat the rubber from some speakers. They say 24hrs, I say at least 48. Test fit everything first, then calk it up and wait 2-3 days, then put the speakers in. Don't forget to silicone speaker wires in before you seal everything up.

 

Also, I would say that a box like that will be the best you're going to do with a regular cab and a bench seat. Either get a Supercab or loose the bench seat and go with buckets and a sub center console. Then you can get a nice big 12" sub and not worry about mounting depth or volume as a center console box can easily have 1 to 1.5 cubic feet of interior volume and not be in the way. I'd even make a top to it that has drink holders and such.

Once you don't need to worry about the size of the sub you can get some that'll take real power and thump hard.

The system I described above will sound great. You have a limited amount of space in the cab and it will hit hard enough to make your ears hurt. Outside you'll hear it but as you move away the thump will decrease quickly. 2 8's or 1 10 just isn't going to be able to make enough thump to hear from blocks away.

But who cares, it's annoying anyway. I just worry about what it sounds like inside.

I wouldn't do it exactly like this but here's a couple center console type sub with buckets.
http://team-diesel.com/Truck/CenterC...lass%20036.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0001_large.jpg

 

Size (IN.,CM) 10, 25.0
Impedance (OHMS) 2, 4 or 8
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK/RMS)* 300/150
Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m) 86.2
Frequency Response (Hz) 30-500
Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 5-1/16, 12.8
Mounting Cutout (IN.,CM) 9-1/8, 23.1
Min Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 1.0, 28.3
Max Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 2.4, 68
Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 1.25, 35.4
Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 1.75, 49.6

here are the specifications for the sub do you still think that the box specs will work