1994 E-350 7.5L 460 - Page 3 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



1968-2013 Full Size Vans Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

1994 E-350 7.5L 460

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #31  
Old 02-24-2014, 05:52 AM
USMC1968's Avatar
USMC1968 USMC1968 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 135
USMC1968 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks again guys,

Frozen_Joker, I have replaced the fan speed switch that is in the dash, that was the last thing I replaced. It looked a little cooked...hmm I wonder if the wiring was damaged? But then why would it work intermittently? I will check the grounds to see if any rust might be causing this.
Thanks for all the responses. I will check it out again today.

Semper Fi

1994 E350 460 Callista Cove 28' RV
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 02-24-2014, 11:39 AM
Frozen_Joker Frozen_Joker is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Fenton, MO
Posts: 438
Frozen_Joker is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
The diagram is accurate. All of the Fords I have worked on for 40 years have work the way the diagram says.
To each their own good sir. I will take my experience over whatever the Ford manual says any day. If something happened that contradicted what the book said would happen to me, then I am going to roll on that.

I was unaware if you had or not. And you are positive its good? There is a possibility of a nasty wire behind the dash somewhere. Never can fully rule that out. Lol.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 02-24-2014, 04:47 PM
USMC1968's Avatar
USMC1968 USMC1968 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 135
USMC1968 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks guys I will start the task of checking everything for continuity, etc. I just have to get me a good multimeter, my old one died. Thanks for your time and suggestions!

Semper Fi
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 02-25-2014, 08:38 AM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 10,251
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by USMC1968 View Post
Thanks guys I will start the task of checking everything for continuity, etc. I just have to get me a good multimeter, my old one died. Thanks for your time and suggestions!

Semper Fi
I have an Ideal #61-310 where one of the LCD fields won't display the full number---its yours free if that's of interest? I might even have a set of cheaper leads to send long too.

PM me.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 03-10-2014, 04:55 PM
USMC1968's Avatar
USMC1968 USMC1968 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 135
USMC1968 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ok, so I finally had time to mess with this again. I pulled out the Blower motor resistor. How do I check it to see if it actually is bad? The thermal limiter is pretty black but do not know how to properly test it.
Thanks!

Semper Fi
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 03-10-2014, 05:12 PM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 10,251
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
See Post #20 by SubFord---there's a complete schematic showing test points and values.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 03-10-2014, 06:03 PM
USMC1968's Avatar
USMC1968 USMC1968 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 135
USMC1968 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks JWA, I did see that but am not 100% certain how to translate it into actual hands on testing. I wanted to test the resistor while it is out of the truck if possible. Thanks again

Semper Fi
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 03-11-2014, 05:10 PM
USMC1968's Avatar
USMC1968 USMC1968 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 135
USMC1968 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ok, so I tested the items discussed in this thread by following this tutorial Part 2 -How to Test the Blower Control Switch (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).
When I took the blower motor switch out to test I found another harness in there as well (the one on the left). What is this one for? Anyway, it looks like from my testing that the switch is bad, there was no continuity on some of the settings. The resistor tested fine. But what still perplexes me is that sometimes it would work just fine, then quit. Could the harness/pigtail be going bad? The original switch had some burn marks on it.

<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/13092502344/player/b4159bcc0d" height="500" width="375" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 03-12-2014, 06:27 AM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 10,251
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
At this point I'm not 100% clear on your skill level to follow a schematic and interpret the findings as to which component or circuit is giving you the problems. Please know that's not meant to be an insult at all!

The intermittent operation suggests the switch----its not an uncommon problem.

IF the connector for the front only blower looks melted or discolored replace it. Along with the switch these seem to be subjected to high amp loads and tend to fail at some point. NAPA etc have replacement pigtails specifically for that need---give them the application and they'll have or order the right part. Other parts sellers no doubt have these too but I use NAPA quite frequently.

The switch is also available aftermarket too.

The second connector you show in above photo is an unused connector for a rear blower. Without the appropriate dash control pod there's no place for the second connector to attach but it doesn't have any live power in it anyway, not really a concern.

HTH
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 03-12-2014, 10:32 AM
USMC1968's Avatar
USMC1968 USMC1968 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 135
USMC1968 is starting off with a positive reputation.
No Worries JWA I am not insulted. I am a novice at this hence me asking these types of questions on forums like this. I would rather try to figure something out myself (with a lot of help from kind folks like you, Sub_Ford, Frozen_Joker, etc) and learn from it than to automatically take my vehicle to a dealer to get it fixed. Being that my E350 is also a 28' motorhome helps in that department for not all dealers can service these things. Like in the Marine Corps, I had to know my equipment but that knowledge did not just happen.
When I first replaced the switch it was burned but the pigtail/harness was fine. I also got a new battery for the beast, crazy cold winter killed the 5yr old one. I think I read somewhere on this site someone experienced something similar after replacing a battery. Anyway I will replace the switch again and see what happens. This WILL get fixed!! haha

Thanks again for your candor and helpful suggestions.

Semper Fi
Reply With Quote
  #41  
Old 03-12-2014, 06:03 PM
USMC1968's Avatar
USMC1968 USMC1968 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 135
USMC1968 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Success!!!! So after double checking all the parts I still had this nagging feeling that everything was good and that a loose wire/connection was the culprit (as subford and others suggested early on). To me, this would explain the intermittent working perfectly fine and then quitting. So I decided to go high tech, I popped the hood turned the ignition to on, turned the blower to vent/med and started wiggling wires under the hood. Well wouldn't you know it the harness/connection to the Relay was loose; Wiggle it and the blower turns on, tap it and it goes off. A quick tightening/re-seating and now the thing is a go all the time!! I guess I felt I did not need to check that area since the part was relatively new. Thanks for all your help and patience guys!! Lesson learned :-)

Semper Fi
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 03-13-2014, 07:11 AM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 10,251
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
Persevere, adapt, overcome!
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 03-13-2014, 03:33 PM
kountzecobra kountzecobra is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Kountze, Texas
Posts: 272
kountzecobra is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
Persevere, adapt, overcome!
And if that doesn't work, "Beat to fit and Paint To Match!"
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 03-14-2014, 06:27 AM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 10,251
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by kountzecobra View Post
And if that doesn't work, "Beat to fit and Paint To Match!"
That too!

Good gravy the number of times I've wanted to take a hammer or other tool of destruction to aspects of my work---and I'm in the glass biz!
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 05-27-2015, 05:25 PM
vtxeasyrider vtxeasyrider is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2
vtxeasyrider is starting off with a positive reputation.
HI I can't help you with your ac problem, but maybe you can help me. I just drove one I picked up in Va. and drove to Cocoa Fl and it ran like a top some thing you have. But I can not find the fuse box. It is not under the dash like the manual says. Not under the hood the power box is there but not the fuse box. Can anyone HELP? Thanks Jake
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What years 7.5 work in my 94 F250? Blevins3 Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460) 2 09-06-2017 11:13 PM
Replacement fuel pump for '94 E350 7.5L ogarcia434 1968-2013 Full Size Vans 3 05-26-2017 10:40 AM
Bouncing speedometer, 1994 F350, 5.8L, 4x4, C6 Dean06919 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1 05-19-2017 04:50 AM
1994 f350 460 trans code ThatGuyWitha7.5 Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460) 2 11-23-2016 05:58 PM
spark plugs for 1994 E350 with 7.5 ogarcia434 1968-2013 Full Size Vans 1 07-13-2016 10:59 AM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums >

Tags
1994, 460, 75, 75l, blower, diagram, e350, ford, icm, located, motor, picture, relay, routing, vacuum

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:13 AM.