Hey guys, been a lurker for a bit. Just bought 69supercj's 65 f100 custom cab through the classified section.

Power brakes FORD TRUCK 1957 THRU 1972, F-100, F-250 - eBay (item 230580465472 end time Feb-07-11 07:40:11 PST)

Has anybody used these/this brake booster, didn't find anything in the search on it? I've read most people use the 67-79 parts I've priced out those also and they are the same(ish) price. Just curious to which is easier install. Not sure if i want to drill out the firewall just yet for the four bolt booster. Want to get the dual reservoir with most ease. I'm also going to upgrade to front discs at some point. Thanks.

I'm leaning towards the parts store newer year stuff, just curious.

Keith

 

7" booster will work fine for your truck. Pedal assy appears to be non adjustable - may be an issue. Price is right; but you get what you pay for. Bing

 

Welcome to FTE...

I'm needing to step up to dual res. and booster myself. Wondering about the best route, too.

 

Keith;
I have one in my 64 f250 it is an awesome upgrade from the stock unit, these Units are made by CPP of Fullerton Ca. I got mine direct from them. there are 3 different models for your year and model truck ... based on brake configuration Disc/Disc, Disc/Drum, or Drum/Drum the only real difference is the proporting valve. They Cost about $275 new from the manufacturer. they use a corvette booster, and master Cylinder combo. CPP also manufactures, and sells drum to disc conversions, for both front and rear axles. When buying from Ebay make sure it is the proper unit for your brake configuration, but the price seems right! I will tell you the pedal will be hypersensitive after installation. It takes very little effort to get to lock up, so proper adjustment is paramount. Also if you adjust the pedal throw a little to tight, it will apply the brakes after you shut your engine off, leaving the brake lights on with out you in the truck... so be very careful on the adjustments. I have drums front and rear, and my truck with tool boxes and all will outstop my son's SVT Focus, freakishly quick stopping!

 

Thanks for the direct link and the review. I would feel much more comfortable dealing direct than through ebay.

I may hold off on the disc swap for a bit if you say your truck stops that good with all drums.

Thanks,

Keith

 

That is a universal and will not fit as advertised. The 57 to 64 is not the same pattern as 65 to 72, so the kit is a compromise of the two.

It also has a GM type master. It is a universal fit kit and is not something any novice should tackle.

The same pattern for power boosters is used by ford from 65 to the 79. Junk yard a booster and bracket and use it as a core for a new one. Use any Drum Drum power master or if you upgrade to ford disc brakes along with the correct distribution valve for drum drum or proportioning valve on discs.

I use 78 79 lever type as it raised the booster up away from the engine valve cover.

No drum brake system even on the best day will ever compare to discs for stopping consistently.

Garbz

 

Keith as with all drum set ups the only draw back is keeping things adjusted, and then the fade when the brakes are wet.. but so far that has really not been a problem except in deep water! CPP makes great products, in My opinion, at least the Quality is very good! It took me about an hour to swap in the new unit for the old, and then another hour to bleed, and adjust everything in!

 

The idea of brakes is not to lock up and prohibit control. Skidding is not control. Brakes should not be hyper sensitive as this. This is a sign of a mis-matched master bore diameter and caliper volume common with universal kits or the pedal ratio is to high placing too much pressure in to the system to early.

As to a 64 F250 straight axle out braking a anti-lock equipped four wheel disc SVT focus? No how no way as it belies the laws of Physics.

1965 and 1966 F series trucks all can be upgraded with 100 percent ford parts as the parts all interchange for the later trucks. Booster, Spindles Calipers it all interchanges. The Earlier trucks have to rely on the mismatched hodgepodge of components.

It is also important to calculate the pedal ratio as this will also cause early lockup or a real heavy pedal feel.

The greatest safety upgrade to a slick is to get rid of drum brakes and add disc brakes.

Garbz

 

Garbz the CPP unit uses a dual piston master, by ford, with a Corvette 7 inch booster, we use the truck to tow the SVT to the track on race day, the large Drum Brakes have a much larger surface area than the disc set up, while the disc is more reliable, the drum can handle a lot more load, hence the reason that they only use drums on Big rigs. When they are properly adjusted the chance of skiding is minimal at best. On the CPP units both the ratio, and the throw of the pistons are easily adjusted, and for the averageback yard mechanic they are an easy bolt on application. Not to mention a lot easier then searching junk yards for suitable parts, that may or may not fit. mean it is truly a matter of opinion.

 

Both very compelling arguments. Not saying anyone is more correct but there is something to be said for using stock equipment. I just wanted to check if anyone had gotten 'stock' results from the ebay (cpp) setup. And it would be an easier gamble if the prices were farther apart but they are essentially same cost. The good news is that the truck doesn't even move under its own power so i'm not endangering any lives yet.

Garbz-Are saying same pattern for boosters where they bolt to the firewall and/or master cylinder? Hows a lever type differ? When i was checking out ford boosters of a newer year they all appeared to be 4 bolts onto the firewall, i think mine is two? lol i've only seen the thing once so far.

Appreciate info from everyone. Thanks.

Keith

 

Does anyone have a link to where on the CPP site the booster is?

 

You can find it at

Classic Ford Truck Parts-1948-1964 Parts. The Finest in Suspension, Brakes, Steering and Accessories.

 

thanks for the link

 

The four studs are meant to go in to a bracket that is not included. All ford power booster for 65 to 79 truck use a bracket of one type or another.

Classic trucks has a install in this months issue on a Chevy but the method will be similar.

Your 64 F250 has 2" wide Lining with equal primary and secondary shoes They were marginal (Barely Adequate) when the truck was new and are marginal now. The problem is not with the swept area it is with fade from heat or loss of friction due to moisture. If you have one panic stop the linings will out gas and float due to over heat, and if you need them in the next few seconds they will not be there. With towing hard use will cause fade to the point there will be no brakes. Moisture in the form of puddles or stream crossings will also play havoc as they need to heat up substantially to bake off the moisture and once they heat up there toast.

The master cylinder shown in CCP ad is a dual bowl chevrolet corvette type, not a ford unit.

The CCP Kit is probably based on a F100 with 1 1/16 front and 7/8 rear wheel cylinders that requires a 1 1/16 bore Master. Just what is the bore size on the vette unit they supply?

The 64 F250 has 1 1/8" wheel cylinders on all corners and requires a 1 1/4" master?

These are not big rig brakes as they use hydraulic fluid which is compressible. Large over the road rigs use air brakes that actuates a lever with zero give. The force applied is compounded the more air pressure you give it. Also comparison is moot as the surface area of them is huge compared to light truck shoes. And Rigs did use Kelsey Hayes disc brakes, but they are horrendous in cost for replacement parts if you can find them.

Hopefully Bill W will chime in as he prototyped a set of disc brakes for 61 to 64 F250's with straight axes as to just how well the truck stops verses with drums.

Garbz

 

Garbz you are way wrong about Big rig brakes.. increased air pressure does not increase the brake pressure since the early 1950's air brakes have used negative pressure. The brakes are applied by a cam and spring assembly, to apply the brakes on a big rig you proportionately dump air pressure this is designed to apply the brakes in the case of an air line failure.. Any truck driver can explain it to you... That is why rigs have to build up pressure, so they can release the brakes...The usual release point is at or around 60 psi, but full release is at 70-80 psi. I spent 16 years working on aircraft engines, and big rigs for GE aviation. This is not a race truck that I drive, I have driven every type of vehicle imagineable, and I am licensed Flight Instructor for rotorcraft, and fixed wing. The chance of having to get on the brakes numerous times such as in a panic stop are highly unlikely. If I want to go fast and road race, I have to track cars for that as for city driving, and towing to the track... the CPP system works great.. It is okay to think outside the box!

As for the CPP unit, the Master that is on mine has a Ford Logo cast into the underside of it, yes it looks like a Cheby unit.. it also came from CPP with the four hole bracket already attached to it, I will admit threading and tightening the nuts for that bracket were the hard part of the install, But I have 10,000 miles on the system as of yesterday, it is is still working great. It easily stops my truck and car trailer, and the only fade I have dealt with is when it rains... which is the usual wet drum syndrome! But living in Southern California, it is not often a problem.