Oh Good lord man---its NOT the alternator---that much I'm 100% convinced of so far! I get the reasoning behind how it can happen and while not impossible when this condition occurs its not at all similar to a severe under voltage condition---I've experienced those before and would recognize the symptoms.

Yes when its a bit warmer and easier to check each and every air path in the induction system leading into the throttle body I'm sure I'll find more than a few things needing attention. Keeping in mind this is an '00 E250 with 248K miles something has run its life and might need replacing.

Thanks again---input always appreciated!

 

Sorry didn't mean to dance on your toes about the ALT....just thought more explanation of the theory was needed. It wasn't intended to be/sound like , this is the problem...just a tossing out of an idea. Obviously you have checked the ALT out thoroughly

Hope you get to bottom of the issue.... with warmer temps...it does make these kind of endeavors.... less hemroidial in nature. like you figure more of a vacuum issue.

 

Sorry about what certainly seems a terse reply to your ideas--didn't mean it as stern as all that sounded and indeed thanks for your ideas E&B!

That aggravating alternator did fail about a year ago and naturally on the coldest day of the year up to then. I was shocked it was such an easy task even outside in those temps. I went whole hog and bought NAPA's best new life time warrantied so should be good to go forever now.

I've never heard anyone talk about the brushes hanging up though---makes perfect sense thinking about it. Wonder how many alternators have been replaced when something this simple might have given a bit more life?

As our weather has become consistently less bitter cold overnight my original problem is almost non-existent; conversations with other certified mechanics seem to agree the codes I get point directly to the vacuum leaking issues. Once I've got the offending part found my local Stealership has most things only two days max away which is no big problem at all. They're even open until 3pm Saturdays!

I'll definitely share what I find cures this nagging and bothersome issue----after all most similar things are easily cured with money and time---more is better it would seem!

Thanks again to all!

 

Just thought I'd add my $.03

A vacuum leak can cause a lean misfire, as mentioned, but so can a fuel supply issue. (Additionally, a misfire (for what ever reason) can trip a lean bank code.)

If your scan tool will let you monitor the LTFTs, note the percentages of trim on each bank at idle and then again at 2500 rpm.

A vacuum leak will have a larger effect on the LTFTs at idle than at 2500 rpm, while a fuel supply issue will have a larger effect on the LTFTs percentage at 2500 rpm than at idle rpm.

If you are convinced that it is a vacuum leak, wrap the air filter in saran wrap and plug the tailpipe, then smoke test the engine and see if the smoke comes out.

The P035x codes are tripped by the PCM when it doesn't receive a valid IDM signal from the integrated ignition module. Its possible that these codes are causing the P030x and the P017x codes.

Check the CKP sensor - (its resistance should be in the 290 -390 ohm range.) Also, check the voltage at the harness side of the coil connectors to be sure there is 12 volts there with KOEO (and while wiggling the ignition switch key). You may have an intermittant/poor contact in the vehicle power feed to the coil primary from the igniton fuse (#8?)/wireing/ignition switch/connectors up to the coils (red/light green stripe wire).

The ground side wire of the coil connector should have less that 5 ohms going back to the PCM connector, should not be shorted to ground, nor shorted to vehicle power.

Woah! I'm beginning to feel your pain!

 

any resolution found on this one?

 

Oh yeah------if any of your suggestions were of issue this would be far far above my ability or desire to mess with---I have trusted mechanic friends who do this for a living! Thanks for the ideas though----something to ponder.

As for a follow up this condition hasn't yet been tracked down and verified to be an air intake leak however the weather has once again changed so it returns occasionally. With outside temps above 45 or so there's no problem---below that and its back once again.

I'm fairly convinced its in the intake ducts and ancillary tubes or plumbing because one in particular nearly falls off when I'm near it changing a COP for example. Just started the truck for an early morning job and its back---restarting after a few moments running seems to "cure" it. Once I'm motivated to look into these vacuum issues a bit more I'm sure it will be somewhat obvious.

I will indeed post anything I find-----hoping it will be useful to anyone else chasing such a problem.

Thanks for the follow ups!

 

If anyone is still following this or wanted an update I have it now.

A few ideas bounced around here in the FTE forums that had me recalling a few issues since my ownership began in 2008. Along with a leaking PCV valve that had oil pooling in the air intake ductwork just before the TB, a faint but noticable whistling noise and the cold weather misfiring I suddenly remembered several potentially leaky air/vacuum tubes. One runs to the IAC and another to the left side valve cover. Both were very very sloppy fitting into the duct but at the time I wasn't aware how important vacuum was to the ECM, that the OBD II system would/could throw a code---live and learn!

Ordered the needed part Ford p/n 4C2Z 9B659 DA, list $105.60 and was bummed because I thought that was for a bit of plastic tubing albeit custom fit for the application---still $105.60?? It arrived looking like this:


(Area in red was the problem in the end----thought that was all I got for my money!)

Once the air cleaner housing was removed an 8mm socket driven by a 1/4" ratchet made somewhat quick work of replacement--only two clamps, one at each end. Reassembly was a bit more involved since what was once loose and sloppy was now tight and needing coaxed back in place. It wasn't any mystery why the vacuum issues existed---the two tubes were held in place more by their shape and form rather than fitting properly.

This is the section of the complete duct that was the problem:



The deformed and possibly age-softened rubber just wouldn't hold the connectors tightly enough to prevent vacuum leaks. I have to wonder if the leaking PCV valve and pooled oil didn't contribute to this?

While everything was apart the MAF also received a cleaning which went well. The toughest part of that job was disconnecting the actual sensor's electrical connection inside the housing. It didn't appear to be all that dirty but it was cleaned anyway thanks to great instructions here in the FTE forums.

The only bummer here was a seized screw which caused the metal threaded insert to spin out of its boss. The MAF has never been removed as evidenced by the factory-applied paint drops but even so I'll now be looking for the plastic MAF holder; if not available separately its off to FeeBay or LKQ for a used air filter housing:



While this far into the intake it was time to clean the TB---also didn't seem too dirty or full of carbon. This is a before photo----wasn't a big change after cleaning:



In the above photo to the right of the TB the lower of the two tubes will be replaced this week because it fits well but new will fit much tighter--its list price is $20.87.

Bolted everything together, reconnected the MAF fired it up and working just fine. The real test will be during colder weather but I'm confident this is/was the cure.

I hope any of this proves useful to others-----I was able to finally diagnose this with help from these boards and hoping only to return the favor!

Thanks to all contributors and anyone looking in!!


J W

 

UPDATE? Did this wind up being the problem? Just checking for a friend.

 

Yes---I did finally diagnose and fix the original problem.

The TB duct tube wasn't the cause however it and the other vacuum/intake related leaks were all repaired/replaced in order to assure reliability.

The real culprit was a set of Granatelli COP's that had failed, one at a time, so far two more are showing signs of the OP condition. Cold weather seems to bring about an internal short or something that (temporarily) disappears when engine operating temperature is achieved and maintained.

The defective Grantelli COP's are being replaced as they show a fault with the original Ford COP's with about 203K miles on them at the time of the switch.

A word to the wise----don't ever discard any working OEM part if swapped out for something aftermarket---never know when the "old" stuff will come in handy!

 

ok, i have an 05 Expedition with the 5.4 and about 155,000 miles. I just changed the plugs and now getting the P0352 & 0354 codes. after reading this post and a couple of others i am going to change the COP's just to make sure that everything is working right.
However when i changed the plugs i soaked them in brake cleaner to help break the deposits up so the plug wouldn't break in half while i was removing them. When the plugs came out, the cylinder head was flooded with the cleaner. I originally thought that the cleaner would burn off, but now with 2 failed COP's i want to make sure i didn't fubar the engine.
Also, the wire that connects to the rear passenger COP will not click into place. It looks like the rubber gasket/o ring was pushed up in female end, so this is causing it not to lock into place. Is this something that easily changed out, or should i take somewhere and have them do it?
Finally, my ac worked fine prior to me starting this over the weekend, but now only hot air blows out. i removed the two hoses that went right across the plugs while changing them, but i reconnected both. Is there possibly and tube that might have popped loose when i was plugging out a plug?
Thanks for any and all help

 

You're not likely to have caused any damage with your plug changing process however you may have an issue with your COP boots---those are frequently the cause of tons of trouble. I'd pull them individually and look for swelled ends, cracks or any other potential path for the spark to jump to the head before it reaches the plug electrode. Replacements I use are an NAPA/Belden USA made part# 702418, about $5 each.

Also make sure you've followed one of the accepted plug re-installation ideas floated around here so often. Barring that at least check the plug torque maybe 5K miles later. Most important of all is NEVER exceed a 50K interval before changing plugs again. This practice alone will save you MPG's as well as the problem of plugs seized in their holes.

The chassis wiring connector the to COP can easily break the locking tabs away, the silicone O-ring mentioned typically rights itself when dislodged however that's not saying its not an issue now. Fish it out of the COP's female shroud, place it properly inside the harness connector (as shown below) then try latching it in place:





If it cannot still be latched its replacement is NAPA's #EC259, about $20 each although there are reportedly cheaper versions available.

Not sure what hose you're talking about for the A/C so can't really direct you in that. Any photos you have would be much more helpful.

Hope some of this helps!

 

Jwa,
Thanks for the help. It turned out that I forgot to plug in cop for cylinder 2 and the loose connector on 4 was causing havoc with everything.
I bought the part from napa and just removed the gasket and put it in the old one. Now it is purring like a kitten.
Also I guess the wires not connected properly to the two cop's was the issue with the Ac. It is working fine now.
Next is to figure out how to get the power adjustable peddles working again. You can hear it try and move, but they don't do anything when pushing the button.

 

That's an interesting situation FF----not sure how it occurred but since its all working now good on ya!

Completely clueless about your peddle issues---my '00 & '03 E250's ain't that high tech!