A new tool to Grease Front 4x4 Hub Bearings
#46
#47
I believe it was designed to be used on 4WD rear-only-ABS trucks after replacing the front hubs with the (cheaper) ABS hubs. It creates a zerk fitting for the front wheel bearings, and is left in place.
Of course, it can also be used to grease bearings in a four-wheel-ABS truck, and then removed for sensor re-installation.
Pop
Of course, it can also be used to grease bearings in a four-wheel-ABS truck, and then removed for sensor re-installation.
Pop
#48
#49
The life of the part expires when the lubrication is no longer doing its job.
We extend that "lifetime" by adding new lube.
Your heart had a lifetime guarantee when you were born, too, but that doesn't negate the need for heart surgeons.
Couldn't resist.......
Pop
#51
Just unscrew the zerk tip from the grease gun, and the grease pipe will fit into the sensor hole quite closely to enable grease to be pumped.
I believe you are left with a tapered 1/8" NPT (national pipe thread) on the end, and it seems to be about the right size.
I end up with no mess at all.
Pop
#52
"Lifetime" means the life of the part, not OUR lifetimes.
The life of the part expires when the lubrication is no longer doing its job.
We extend that "lifetime" by adding new lube.
Your heart had a lifetime guarantee when you were born, too, but that doesn't negate the need for heart surgeons.
Couldn't resist.......
Pop
The life of the part expires when the lubrication is no longer doing its job.
We extend that "lifetime" by adding new lube.
Your heart had a lifetime guarantee when you were born, too, but that doesn't negate the need for heart surgeons.
Couldn't resist.......
Pop
#53
Do I detect sarcasm? If so:
A huge percentage of those of us that hang out around FTE rather enjoy turning wrenches on our trucks, and exchange tips and techniques with the others here.
This particular thread is exactly one of those, so your view of it when reading through will (and should) reflect that.
Pop
A huge percentage of those of us that hang out around FTE rather enjoy turning wrenches on our trucks, and exchange tips and techniques with the others here.
This particular thread is exactly one of those, so your view of it when reading through will (and should) reflect that.
Pop
#54
Ok, I finally came across one of the bearings with the 5 sided allen like bolt. It was in an SKF premium bearing. I took a flat blade screwdriver that just fit and got the bolt out. If that wouldnt have worked I was going to use a cut off wheel in my die grinder to cut a slot so I could put a big screwdriver in it. I then took the old one out of the original hub and put it in place. Seems to me that SKF doesnt want us being able to remove that abs sensor....Hmmm. I have found the tool to do it and ordered it. As soon as I get it I will post a part number and place you can order it. Seems this design on the bolt is common in Europe. You cant find the tool anywhere. They put them in bicycles over there so you have to bring them to the dealer to have them worked on. There is even some sort of patent on the tool so they cant be copied. I found one that has a hole drilled in the middle for anti-theft. Was unsure about the size so I ordered several. When I find out which one I will pass on info. They are 6 bucks apiece. Another alternative is to buy the Ford hub. I think what we are doing packing the bearings is costing them a lot of sales and that is the reason for the bolt. Thing is those abs sensors fail from time to time and with what they are doing it would make it theoretically impossible to change. I have noticed on the new trucks that Ford is putting more grease in their hubs now. I suspected these companies were building in planned failure and now have to find a way to shut this down or do the right thing by adding more grease.
I posted a You Tube Video on a modification that I am doing to other trucks with the tapered bearings. I have done it on trucks as small as an F150 to axles as big as 16000 lb. You mud boggers might be interested in this. Check it out.
I posted a You Tube Video on a modification that I am doing to other trucks with the tapered bearings. I have done it on trucks as small as an F150 to axles as big as 16000 lb. You mud boggers might be interested in this. Check it out.
#55
Ok....Here is the part# for the 5 sided tool. 5043A27 With McMaster-Carr. Its a torques bit but works just fine. The real bit cant be had as it is made in Germany and patented to not be copied. I have taken out several with this bit so just order it. Its worth the investment so you can pack your SKB brand hubs.
#56
#57
Yup...you are right Pop!! That could be done, but with a 1/4 or 5/16 inch bolt. 1/2 inch you would be grinding for a long time. I just posted that patent thing to show why we cant just buy the tool needed. Then for the people that arent as mechanically inclined I posted the part # for a tool that will work.
#58
2005-2010 front-hub bearings are different than previous models
I experienced the symptom of excessive heat coming from my front brakes. Then I smelled brake pad burning. I am running the factory 20" (Harley wheels) and stock-size tires, but they are still HUGE and exert a huge amount of force on the bearings. Evidently, the inner-bearing is the one that goes bad, because that is all Ford supplies in this kit.
I thought, "But my bearings do not appear to be rough, wobbly, worn-out etc., so why replace?" My answer: Because I have 60K on my 2005 and Ford has documented that these bearings can fail in that short of a time.
note: There is a dynatec hub\bearings\axle shaft upgrade kit that replaces this whole "unit-bearing" failure-prone design. Problem is, it's REALLY expensive.
note: You MUST replace that inner O-ring seal backing the hub to get the vaccuum auto-hub mechanism to work properly. Old seals will lose vaccuum. If you choose to delete that auto-hubs, the seal is of no consequence.
This front-hub service is really not that difficult. It's do-able by anyone who feels they can operate a good pair of Snap-on snap-ring pliers.
RTFLDGR
I thought, "But my bearings do not appear to be rough, wobbly, worn-out etc., so why replace?" My answer: Because I have 60K on my 2005 and Ford has documented that these bearings can fail in that short of a time.
note: There is a dynatec hub\bearings\axle shaft upgrade kit that replaces this whole "unit-bearing" failure-prone design. Problem is, it's REALLY expensive.
note: You MUST replace that inner O-ring seal backing the hub to get the vaccuum auto-hub mechanism to work properly. Old seals will lose vaccuum. If you choose to delete that auto-hubs, the seal is of no consequence.
This front-hub service is really not that difficult. It's do-able by anyone who feels they can operate a good pair of Snap-on snap-ring pliers.
RTFLDGR
Last edited by RTFLDGR; 09-17-2014 at 12:18 PM. Reason: correcting the data