Has this truck ever run properly since you've owned it?

The butt connector is not factory and it needs to be removed
and the wires soldered together. The butt connector
was installed by Bubba Jr.

A fully charged battery should read over 12.7 volts DC.

If you read 12 volts across the battery with the engine
not running, the battery is discharged. Charge the
battery and have it load tested.

With the engine running and the alternator charging the
voltage will be greater than 12.7 volts DC.

At the negative battery terminal is a large ground wire and
two small ground wires. Verify they all are making a good
connection at the negative battery terminal.

There should be a braided ground wire from the passenger side
hood hinge area to the engine block. There should also be a
ground wire connecting the engine to the frame.

 

I got such a good deal on the truck because it didn't start on its own. When it is running it runs pretty well, timings just off. I'll check on those ground straps. It doesn't, however, have anything coming off of the negative battery terminal, though. Just the negative battery cable. What should those wires be and where should they go?

 

If the battery negative terminal cable is the factory original there
are three cables molded together at the terminal that goes to the
negative battery terminal.

The larger cable goes to the engine block.
The two smaller ones are ground for the computer and ground for the
ABS Module.

 

i recently bought a 1990 ford F150 and it had a burn out push to start that someone wired in there... i have since replaced the Ignition switch and new steering column .. now i have to start my truck from the Silaniod and it turns off with the igniton .. but it wont start it .. any ideas ?

 

sounds like the wire to trigger the starter solenoid, was bypassed from the ignition to the button. try replacing the button with a heavy duty unit. they're only bout five bucks. the upside: most would-be vehicle thieves would have no idea what to do to make it start.

 

if i knew what that was i would ... i am not a wire guy ... have no clue how to do that .. now i can do anything that has nothing to do with wires tho LMAO

 

its super simple dude. buy a new, heavy duty button. take the old one out, remove the two wires on the posts, and attach said wires to posts on new switch. install new switch in old hole. done. its pretty self-explanatory once you get it apart and look at it.

 

so i am having a simalar problem but instead of it not start i hade my ignition wire the grey yellow wire pull out of the connector but when i put it in the connector nothing happens untill i put power on the wire

 

Bumping this thread as I have an intermittent "no ignition" problem on my '91. I've already replaced ground cable from battery to starter, starter relay, and upgraded to mini starter. About 80% of the time, the engine starts fine. When it doesn't start, I do get an audible "click". I'm then able to start the engine by shorting across the starter relay terminals. Turning the key in the tumbler feels "normal".

I know I should do real diagnostics, but I think the most likely suspect is the ignition switch - yes, no, maybe???

 

i would look at the fender mounter starter relay first.
when you jump the relay, do you jump the two large posts, or the small one to the large one?