Does anyone have additional inputs beyound the FICM repair guide? I intend on photographing the entire procedure and posting it when done. I am not sure if that is redundant or not, but perhaps it will help someone along the line!

Eric

 

I think the FICM repair guide is Pretty complete except for sources for replacement components. Picks of your experience just adds more info. Go for it. There is definitely a skill to writing the instructions. It can be a fine line between adding the important info and explaining in too much detail. No matter how it comes out though, it has a good chance of being helpful to someone. Good luck!

 

Okay....! Goin' in!

 

I'll post some pictures later, when I get to my computer!

All done! Toughest parts were getting the bolts back in the rear of the FICM vibration mount, getting the connectors off (carefully ) and getting through the conformal coating, both silicone and possibly paralyne. Any way the silicone was delaminated from one set of resistors suggesting heating and cooling. Neither set were obviously damaged although at least one resistor had tension on it and there was an audible click when I applied heat to the first pad. Reflowed all outlined joints and cleaned each staking point.

Code is gone from the Insight, I have lively throttle response and my F350 sounds and feels good!

Mad reps to FTE!

Eric

 

Picture of the removed board. I had already started removing the conformal coating. Notice the lighter colored areas to the left and right side. The coating was lifted from the repair area prior to me touching it.

 

Tools I used:

#2 Cleoid / Discoid Dental tool
#11 X-Acto Knife blade
Hair Dryer to loosen conformal coating
75 Watt Jensen Soldering Iron
63/37 Rosin Core Solder
RMA Flux
Chem-Wick Solder Braid

Torx Bits
Metric Sockets 8, 9, 10mm
8mm OE/BE wrench
3/4" Socket for Radiator plug
3" 3/8 drive extension
3/8" Ratchet handle
3 Gallon Plastic Container to catch radiator fluid
Large funnel to replace radiator fluid
Pliers for hose clamps

Eric

 

Glad it's running good!

 

Did mine last night to address some rough idle and one long crank / won't start event. Initial voltage was only 36 Vdc, so I was happy to be on the right track. I feel guilty now for not taking any photos to contribute to the site, but a brief test drive after I was done (about 3 hours - stupid air filter was in the way of letting the coolant bottle move further forward to help access to the module - I'm gettin' too old for this) indicates progress. Engine sounded quieter, with less smoke at start up. I'm hopin'g' for more power too and better economy - we'll see...
Thanks to everyone that does contribute to the forum and provides details on how to get these issues repaired.