a real econoline steering fix!
#496
12-04-2017, 05:47 PM
Well, I finally replaced the passenger side inner/outer tie rod as well as the steering damper.
The Monroe damper is larger than the stock unit.
I ran the van without the damper and didn't feel anything loose as it was before.
Adding the damper into the mix and she feels as she should. Haven't had it on the highway yet, but all feels good.
The replacement parts are AC Delco...Usually I like their parts, but I'm not sure these are exactly the same specs fitment wise, as motorcraft parts would be...and it didn't have the correct cap/lock nuts to pin the bolts with.
Time will tell.
And another thing...I just put the Toe back to what it was with the old parts, which were alligned recently.
Now my steering wheel isn't in alignment, no biggie.
I do need to get it checked by a shop, but it sure tracks better than before.
May try a different shop, as I wasn't to shur about the last alignment.
In the parking lots, under a tight turn, the tires would chip and jump when going fromasphault to painted lines.
I'll have to check it tomorrow on some wet parking lots.
The Monroe damper is larger than the stock unit.
I ran the van without the damper and didn't feel anything loose as it was before.
Adding the damper into the mix and she feels as she should. Haven't had it on the highway yet, but all feels good.
The replacement parts are AC Delco...Usually I like their parts, but I'm not sure these are exactly the same specs fitment wise, as motorcraft parts would be...and it didn't have the correct cap/lock nuts to pin the bolts with.
Time will tell.
And another thing...I just put the Toe back to what it was with the old parts, which were alligned recently.
Now my steering wheel isn't in alignment, no biggie.
I do need to get it checked by a shop, but it sure tracks better than before.
May try a different shop, as I wasn't to shur about the last alignment.
In the parking lots, under a tight turn, the tires would chip and jump when going fromasphault to painted lines.
I'll have to check it tomorrow on some wet parking lots.
#498
12-05-2017, 10:05 AM
I may have to give that string method a try. I did something similar when I had my Ram 3500.
I need some concrete to do it on.....my uneven gravel driveway wont cut it.
I'd jack it up to make the adjustments, then roll it forward then back each adjustment to make sure it settles each time.
Took it on the hiway this am. Did good!
I think I still could use some shocks...
I need some concrete to do it on.....my uneven gravel driveway wont cut it.
I'd jack it up to make the adjustments, then roll it forward then back each adjustment to make sure it settles each time.
Took it on the hiway this am. Did good!
I think I still could use some shocks...
#500
12-05-2017, 10:56 AM
Some of them NASCAR boys used to "string a car" sumpin' fierce. 
Of course all the hi-tek fancy computer-based alignment systems today are based on those same principles of comparing this to that, adjust as necessary.
A good test of shocks is after encountering highway bumps or even a slightly severe dip count the number of times the chassis bounces or oscillates up and down. More than once and shocks are either toast or on their way to failure.
Even my pricey Bilstiens have a definite life---after 50K (on most roads) time for new ones.
Of course all the hi-tek fancy computer-based alignment systems today are based on those same principles of comparing this to that, adjust as necessary. A good test of shocks is after encountering highway bumps or even a slightly severe dip count the number of times the chassis bounces or oscillates up and down. More than once and shocks are either toast or on their way to failure.
Even my pricey Bilstiens have a definite life---after 50K (on most roads) time for new ones.
#501
12-05-2017, 02:00 PM
#502
12-05-2017, 06:45 PM
Some of them NASCAR boys used to "string a car" sumpin' fierce. Of course all the hi-tek fancy computer-based alignment systems today are based on those same principles of comparing this to that, adjust as necessary.
A good test of shocks is after encountering highway bumps or even a slightly severe dip count the number of times the chassis bounces or oscillates up and down. More than once and shocks are either toast or on their way to failure.
Even my pricey Bilstiens have a definite life---after 50K (on most roads) time for new ones.
Of course all the hi-tek fancy computer-based alignment systems today are based on those same principles of comparing this to that, adjust as necessary. A good test of shocks is after encountering highway bumps or even a slightly severe dip count the number of times the chassis bounces or oscillates up and down. More than once and shocks are either toast or on their way to failure.
Even my pricey Bilstiens have a definite life---after 50K (on most roads) time for new ones.
#504
12-05-2017, 08:41 PM
My new-to-me 2005 E350 extended body & raised roof will have Hellwig and Bilstein parts intended for a short wheelbase motorhome chassis based on the E450 frame. I hope to have them installed within a week, should know almost immediately how much improvement that jump in capacity will give me.
I'll also have the caster increased to +5---really looking forward to that myself.
#505
12-05-2017, 08:47 PM
#506
05-20-2018, 12:07 PM
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Added stabilizer
well I purchased my used brackets and shock from a gentleman on EBay, and just finished installing them on my my wife’s E-350 SD. Much easier than I anticipated, but I highly recommend an impact/ hammer drill. Now I am getting ready to test it on the road/highway. Hopefully his fixes the wondering of the vehicle.
#507
05-20-2018, 12:59 PM
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JMHO
Here is a little something I figured out about (experimenting) with some of the above mentioned running caster vs. rack caster. Out of shear luck or coincidence, I happened to install two water tanks in the rear of my van BEHIND the rear axle.
One on each side (R&L). They are about 35 gallons each. That is about #280.
My van has a tendency to drift to the left. But when I filled the LEFT side water tank up my van suddenly drove very nice & straight! No more constant adjusting back to the right to keep it in my lane. I have to assume I have changed the running caster of I figure the front Left wheel. I will also assume I have INCREASED it because I have in effect lifted the nose UP a bit on the left side , thus increasing the caster of the left wheel. Now this may not be a noticeable amount of lift visually. But it damn sure is noticeable in the handling of my van. But the problem with loading up a van like this is that it is going to change as I use up the water in the tank. So it's hard to decide in what (condition) to bring it in for a front end (adjustment). This is also different from the fuel tank as that is NOT located behind the rear axle. I NEVER noticed a difference in handling between full & very low fuel. The point I am describing HERE is that you can see/feel the difference that can be made to CASTER (running Caster) by adding weight to one side or the other of the rear of your van. It might also give you a good idea as to what numbers you should ask your alignment shop to (aim for) or as to what side you think they should look to increase caster over the other side to help give you a straight tracking vehicle.
I love the way my van drives right after I fill up my left side water tank! When I fill them BOTH up it's back to pulling more to the LEFT. If I drain the Left side & leave the right side full the Left pull is even more so increased.
Just something to think about if your van is (drifting) to one side. You might try to add some weight to the far rear end (right or left side) and see if it changes things. My van has some other stuff loaded in it so it may take the 280 pounds to feel any results. If yours is empty you might be able to add just #100 or #200 and feel a difference.
Again, just something to consider.
If you are on the fence about the steering "shock & brackets" I am (+1) on saying it's a worth while investment. All the better if you can score them a the wrecking yard for pennies on the dollar! DDT
Here is a little something I figured out about (experimenting) with some of the above mentioned running caster vs. rack caster. Out of shear luck or coincidence, I happened to install two water tanks in the rear of my van BEHIND the rear axle.
One on each side (R&L). They are about 35 gallons each. That is about #280.
My van has a tendency to drift to the left. But when I filled the LEFT side water tank up my van suddenly drove very nice & straight! No more constant adjusting back to the right to keep it in my lane. I have to assume I have changed the running caster of I figure the front Left wheel. I will also assume I have INCREASED it because I have in effect lifted the nose UP a bit on the left side , thus increasing the caster of the left wheel. Now this may not be a noticeable amount of lift visually. But it damn sure is noticeable in the handling of my van. But the problem with loading up a van like this is that it is going to change as I use up the water in the tank. So it's hard to decide in what (condition) to bring it in for a front end (adjustment). This is also different from the fuel tank as that is NOT located behind the rear axle. I NEVER noticed a difference in handling between full & very low fuel. The point I am describing HERE is that you can see/feel the difference that can be made to CASTER (running Caster) by adding weight to one side or the other of the rear of your van. It might also give you a good idea as to what numbers you should ask your alignment shop to (aim for) or as to what side you think they should look to increase caster over the other side to help give you a straight tracking vehicle.
I love the way my van drives right after I fill up my left side water tank! When I fill them BOTH up it's back to pulling more to the LEFT. If I drain the Left side & leave the right side full the Left pull is even more so increased.
Just something to think about if your van is (drifting) to one side. You might try to add some weight to the far rear end (right or left side) and see if it changes things. My van has some other stuff loaded in it so it may take the 280 pounds to feel any results. If yours is empty you might be able to add just #100 or #200 and feel a difference.
Again, just something to consider.
If you are on the fence about the steering "shock & brackets" I am (+1) on saying it's a worth while investment. All the better if you can score them a the wrecking yard for pennies on the dollar! DDT
After mine was adjusted from 3 to 5 degree's I took the stabilizer off because it was junk, and felt no difference other than it was harder to steer after I installed the new one.
Apparently this thread about the steering damper must have a placebo effect
#508
05-20-2018, 02:17 PM
Bingo! Its not the lack of a steering damper band-aid.. Its the lack of caster.
After mine was adjusted from 3 to 5 degree's I took the stabilizer off because it was junk, and felt no difference other than it was harder to steer after I installed the new one.
Apparently this thread about the steering damper must have a placebo effect
After mine was adjusted from 3 to 5 degree's I took the stabilizer off because it was junk, and felt no difference other than it was harder to steer after I installed the new one.
Apparently this thread about the steering damper must have a placebo effect
It seems most any competent alignment shop is or should be capable of installing the proper bushings to achieve this, whether they're willing to do so is another matter. If looking to make this change contact a shop specializing in big truck frame, spring and alignment repairs. If they're equipped to work on "smaller" vehicles this would be a very simple chore for them.
I have a new-to-me 2005 E350 extended body van, formerly a wheel chair transport Club Wagon configured. Already outfitted with short wheelbase motorhome Hellwig front & rear anti-sway bars once I'm motivated enough to replace the existing shocks with Bilstein short wheelbase motorhome versions I'll also have my caster pushed out to +5 degrees. After calling a number of big truck shops I've finally located one who seems very knowledgeable about this sort of thing. They did "warn" me though the cost could be as much as $200.
I found that a bit funny since that's very affordable to me for the potential change/improvement; truth be told I'd spend even more to have this done by someone I can trust.I won't tell them that until they've completed the work!
#509
05-20-2018, 02:25 PM
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User Harvard has posted in several threads here and on other forums too somewhat significantly about E-Series chassis and the typical caster setting of +3 degrees. Most who've pushed that to +5 degrees have reported significant improvements in steering and handling. I think the placebo effect could indeed be fully in effect when adding the steering damper but leaving caster at just +3 degrees.
After calling a number of big truck shops I've finally located one who seems very knowledgeable about this sort of thing. They did "warn" me though the cost could be as much as $200. I found that a bit funny since that's very affordable to me for the potential change/improvement; truth be told I'd spend even more to have this done by someone I can trust.
I won't tell them that until they've completed the work!
After calling a number of big truck shops I've finally located one who seems very knowledgeable about this sort of thing. They did "warn" me though the cost could be as much as $200.
I found that a bit funny since that's very affordable to me for the potential change/improvement; truth be told I'd spend even more to have this done by someone I can trust.I won't tell them that until they've completed the work!
The first alignment shop I spoke with was comfortable doing it and it cost me around $100. Night and day difference. But I should warn others running larger tires, it may rub afterwards. 4.5 degrees would have the same result I bet.
#510
05-20-2018, 02:52 PM
Since I already run 245/R16-75 tires on my E350 (spec'd size) what would you call larger tires?