I found this forum and thread by accident. I just bought a 1980 Roll A Long Class C motorhome on a 1979 E350 chassis. Back in the 70's and early 80's just about all American vehicles with power steering were way way over powered. That's why you have that floating boat feeling with no feedback at all through the steering wheel. So I was searching for a performance type steering box to replace mine and found this thread. I have been driving Ford vans daily since 1975 as a service plumber and A/C tech. Every single one I've ever driven had all the problems stated in this thread. Ford van steering sucks period. I have well over a million miles in them. Adding a stabilizer is not "masking" another problem. E series steering sucks when brand new. I don't care what Maples01 says. Steering stabilizers do exactly what the name implies. They stabilize the steering. I have had them on all my 4x4 trucks. I don't know why I didn't think of it for this van but thank you to Andrew and everyone here. I'm ordering all the parts and since I don't have the predrilled holes, will be welding the bracket to the frame as one of the guys did here in this thread. I hope it makes the steering "harder" and "tighter" as some have described. The over powered gearbox is part of the problem with overcorrecting. Thanks again to everyone here. I'm glad I found this forum. I read this thread from beginning to end.

 

Sounds like it's time to replace the steering box, when people start adjusting the box without knowledge of how to do so, be it due to wear, or just because they thought they could improve it, it causes damage due to removal of slack, slack that is needed to avoid premature wear along with the oversteer conditions you are facing.

 

My gearbox is fine but youre right about people messing with the adjustments. Taking the slack out of the gearbox will cause rapid failure.

 

For those looking in and curious about this adjustment here's pretty much the factory recommendation how its done properly: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...one-right.html

Thanks to Vanaddition for originally posting this!

 

There's really 2 problems with my steering. One it's way over boosted. By that I mean I can spin the wheel with just my pinky finger. Fine for Grandma in Wmart parking lot but not good at all for stability and feedback. A design flaw from the era. The other is the camper on the back obviously affects stability.

 

Your design error might be addressed by a custom rebuilder such as Redhead Steering Gear. I'd call them and get their best advice.

The camper body issue might also be address by suspension enhancements including but not limited to new/rebuilt leaf springs etc etc.

 

I am looking to order OEM components for the stabilizer kit. Does anyone have a list of the OEM part numbers that will work for my 2011 E350? From what I have been reading, I want to use the OEM frame bracket and damper shock.

However, I have seen good reviews on the Roadmaster Stabilizer kit at http://www.etrailer.com/Anti-Sway-Ba...id=20121024163

Anyone use the Roadmaster kit?

Thanks for the help. This thread has been a great read!

 

The Roadmaster shock looks beefier than the oem shock. Update: I just returned from a 2200 mile trip. Got within 20 miles of home and had a front blowout at 65mph on a bridge. The tire shredded and came off. The wheel slammed the ground making it an oval. The simulator also shredded. But we didn't get into the wall. I shudder to think of the damage had I not installed the steering stabilizer. Even with it I used 3 lanes to regain control. Cost of AAA RV Plus Plan: $133.95/year. Cost to tow my RV 17.5 miles on Sunday evening: $429.50. Lesson learned.



PS. This has nothing to do with this thread but does anyone else spend about half their time in their RV banging their head on things? My head is covered with lumps from this trip.

 

From Page 1 of this thread:

I'm not familiar with the Roadmaster system however it seems directed towards the motorhome chassis market---might be a bit overkill for your E350, assuming its just a standard body van in whatever configuration; 12-15 passenger, conversion or empty cargo only.

 

Thanks for re-posting the list. It is a 12 passenger E350 XLT. As for the Roadmaster setup, I like the idea of the spring assisting in re-centering the wheel. Key is getting the setup correct so that you mount the stabilizer with the wheels perfectly straight. May require a test drive and then readjustments until it is not pulling. Might be overkill, however.

Sounds like the OEM stabilizer adds resistance to wheel movement to the left or right, but does not pull or push back to center like the Roadmaster setup.

I really like the truck, I think it is a lot of bang for the buck as it is a very versatile vehicle. But my main complaint is the "micro wandering/drifting" that is especially noticeable at highway speeds. I only have 27k. The front end it tight and aligned. I think the root cause is mainly the steering gearbox ratio. Wish it were tighter. I noticed a post for Red-Head Steering Gears - Custom Rebuilt Steering Gear Boxes in USA who remanunfacture quick ratio gearboxes. Tempted to give them a call to learn more.

 

I think I'm going to order the Roadmaster kit. My RV weighs 11,000 lbs dry and unloaded. The OEM damper/shock helps a lot with the "twitchyness" of the steering but I think the spring and beefier damper/shock would be even better with all this weight.

 

Assuming your front suspension is in top condition, that the rear springs are still viable enough to not induce unwanted front steering effect then the idea the E-Series need or want help with a return to center via the Roadmaster coil-over spring is somewhat off centered itself.

The steering damper as presented here is more than sufficient to do its intended job---it was an OEM addition to the ambulance bodies, not a version of the Roadmaster set up. That's not bashing the RM for use in huge or heavy RV's---its simply saying too much sometimes is just that and not necessarily a good idea. Endeavourniche's experience not withstanding.........in his case this probably saved his bacon.

Too much resistance introduced to the steering system when the load isn't sufficient to warrant that much counter-effort MIGHT be somewhat unsafe during normal operation. Because 12 pass E350's load most likely will vary from time-to-time something full time like the Roadmaster needs to be considered very, very carefully---is it really necessary, will it really add that much benefit?

Repeating again IF the entire suspension system is in good order the OEM damper is more than enough. Thinking the coil-over spring overcomes the resistance Roadmaster's steering damper introduces begs the question: Is any sort of steering damper really required, especially one that tries to counter its own effect?

However it's your money, your van etc etc----let us know what you do and what difference it made.

 

Here is the list of parts that I used. It's buried in the thread on several locations. Ford does not include all the parts. I ordered from Lakeland Ford in California and they found most of the hardware including bolts to do the install.

Required Parts:

1. F2UZ-3E652A Bracket $53.90
2. F2UZ-3E652B Bracket $80.22
3. F7UZ-3E651AB Damper $60.62
4. I used six 3/8″ grade 8 bolts 3/4 long with lock washers and grade 8 lock nuts.

This website has great photos for the install. You will not have to view any more threads after reading and seeing the detailed instructions. These photos are links from his website. It took me less than an hour to install the parts. No drilling required as the holes were already on the frame.






Stabilizer/damper bracket. The self tapping bolts were not included. Lakeland Ford sold me the bolts.

 

I am so relieved and happy to bump into this! I thought I was the only one having bad handling issues. I have 2006 E350 and very basic mechanical knowledge and skills. I am in desperate need of someone to basically explain steering, anti sway bar, and shocks for dummies like me. Tell me what I need to get and where I could get these installed on my van. Clueless in Gladstone, Oregon.

Thanks!

 

First thing would be making us understand what you mean by having bad handling issues. There are many, many aspects to this so the cure depends on what exactly is the problem.

Throwing money at a perceived problem only to have it not work as expected can be frustrating and costly, needless to say. Sometimes the problem is as simple as shocks or tire type and/or pressure, other times it goes as far as needing new springs.