a real econoline steering fix!
#226
#227
Installed today on a 1999 E350.
Pushed a piece os solid wire backwards through the hole for the (2) 5/16" bolts, taped it to the bolt, did the bottom one first, was able to insert both this way on first try. Looking uo into future 7/16" hole for bottom bolt I was able to put a shop light near the chassis that let me see the end of an open end box wrench and I was able to locate and tighten both these bolts in under 10 minutes. Thanks to the hints and fore-warnings detailed above.
The tapped third hole is very important. Locates the shoulder of the bracket against the bottom of the chassis frame.
I used the "mark the center of the shock draw length" to locate the driver side bracket. This truck uses nearly all of the stroke. Had wheels straight, mounted it, then checked lock to lock and no issues.
The nut I got with stuff from dealet was m12 x 1.75. No bolt. $1.49 for 70 mm at hardware store, $1.99 for shorted one I needed. Sawed to flush after installed, kept the 50 cents.
Have only driven 8 miles on a 2-lane curvy road and it has greatly improved the 55 mph drift it used to have.
Thanks for all the photos and hints, sure like this forum.
Pushed a piece os solid wire backwards through the hole for the (2) 5/16" bolts, taped it to the bolt, did the bottom one first, was able to insert both this way on first try. Looking uo into future 7/16" hole for bottom bolt I was able to put a shop light near the chassis that let me see the end of an open end box wrench and I was able to locate and tighten both these bolts in under 10 minutes. Thanks to the hints and fore-warnings detailed above.
The tapped third hole is very important. Locates the shoulder of the bracket against the bottom of the chassis frame.
I used the "mark the center of the shock draw length" to locate the driver side bracket. This truck uses nearly all of the stroke. Had wheels straight, mounted it, then checked lock to lock and no issues.
The nut I got with stuff from dealet was m12 x 1.75. No bolt. $1.49 for 70 mm at hardware store, $1.99 for shorted one I needed. Sawed to flush after installed, kept the 50 cents.
Have only driven 8 miles on a 2-lane curvy road and it has greatly improved the 55 mph drift it used to have.
Thanks for all the photos and hints, sure like this forum.
#228
Has anyone done this upgrade/mod to a van older than '92 yet?
I was wondering if it would simply take drilling the frame holes for the bracket, or if I should just weld it on, or if there are any other mods I might need to do to make it work.
My '89 e350 motorhome is a REAL bitch to keep straight on the road, and I've tried just about everything else but the trailing arm bushings. It only has 30k miles and most of the parts shouldn't be worn out so I figure this would be a good option.
Thanx,
Steve
I was wondering if it would simply take drilling the frame holes for the bracket, or if I should just weld it on, or if there are any other mods I might need to do to make it work.
My '89 e350 motorhome is a REAL bitch to keep straight on the road, and I've tried just about everything else but the trailing arm bushings. It only has 30k miles and most of the parts shouldn't be worn out so I figure this would be a good option.
Thanx,
Steve
#229
SteveM it mostly depends where you sway or fishtailing begins, from the front end wandering around or if its induced by the body length behind the rear wheels. Once you know this it might be easier helping you.
As for your question I'm of the understanding the frames and steering gear between the two eras (pre- and post-91/92) are similar enough this swap might very well be backward compatible. Also keep in mind this was somewhat standard on ambulances of the pre-92 era so maybe OEM parts are still available OR a trip to a scrap yard might be in order too.
HTH
As for your question I'm of the understanding the frames and steering gear between the two eras (pre- and post-91/92) are similar enough this swap might very well be backward compatible. Also keep in mind this was somewhat standard on ambulances of the pre-92 era so maybe OEM parts are still available OR a trip to a scrap yard might be in order too.
HTH
#230
The problem is definetly in the steering...
It feels like there is alot of play in the steering box, but I've checked that and it is about 1 turn from binding. Sometimes it feels like my tires are only about a 1/4 inch wide and the slightest bump or groove in the road makes them steer a different way. Wind isn't the only problem but it does make things alot worse. It's just very tiring to drive always having to correct the steering.
I really think that putting a damper on the drag link will help this problem alot...
Scrap yards here in Orange County CA kinda suck because they go through cars so fast that the older ones are mostly gone before the oil leaks out... I am going to try and find one this weekend though, and then I will try and mount it and post back here how things work out... (with pics too, if I can)
Thanx,
Steve
It feels like there is alot of play in the steering box, but I've checked that and it is about 1 turn from binding. Sometimes it feels like my tires are only about a 1/4 inch wide and the slightest bump or groove in the road makes them steer a different way. Wind isn't the only problem but it does make things alot worse. It's just very tiring to drive always having to correct the steering.
I really think that putting a damper on the drag link will help this problem alot...
Scrap yards here in Orange County CA kinda suck because they go through cars so fast that the older ones are mostly gone before the oil leaks out... I am going to try and find one this weekend though, and then I will try and mount it and post back here how things work out... (with pics too, if I can)
Thanx,
Steve
#231
Ok hit the two pick your parts nearest me today and only found one F-250 Dually that had a steering stabilizer... I got it anyway, for about $5...
I think I may be able to work with the drag link connector which is the more expensive of the two from the dealer.
I think the idea is to have the shock directly inline with the motion of the drag link when you steer, so as I try to retrofit this all together I will try to keep that as the main focus. It does look like I'll be getting the chassis bracket from Ford though...
I'll keep everyone posted...
Steve
I think I may be able to work with the drag link connector which is the more expensive of the two from the dealer.
I think the idea is to have the shock directly inline with the motion of the drag link when you steer, so as I try to retrofit this all together I will try to keep that as the main focus. It does look like I'll be getting the chassis bracket from Ford though...
I'll keep everyone posted...
Steve
#232
Thanks SteveM-----this will be an interesting addition to this topic. If you're able to post some photos of your progress its helpful to anyone else thinking of adapting parts from the F-Series to the E-Series.
Thinking back on a few pre-92 Ford vans they did that floating feel to the steering---had an '88 E150 that even empty was a bit of a chore to keep straight without frequent wheel correction input. Of course springs, tires, shocks and sway control bars/devices great help but overall I think it was Ford's design, your situation being not that far out of the ordinary.
Good find on the parts BTW----$5 well spent!
Thinking back on a few pre-92 Ford vans they did that floating feel to the steering---had an '88 E150 that even empty was a bit of a chore to keep straight without frequent wheel correction input. Of course springs, tires, shocks and sway control bars/devices great help but overall I think it was Ford's design, your situation being not that far out of the ordinary.
Good find on the parts BTW----$5 well spent!
#233
If this thread isn't a sticky, it should be.
I will be pulling a toyhauler across the country with my 95 E350 and need to address the steering. While not as loose as some of the cases Iv read here. Not rock solid like I need it to be for my wife and I to feel comfortable flying down the interstate at 80 mph.
Edit:
I just looked closer at what I have and it looks like I'm all set up but its not a factory frame bracket..
But since I still have at least 4" of slop on the steering when on the interstate.. Where should I start next? Tightening the steering box preload screw?
Edit
I just found the ball joint at the end of the pitman arm very loose. The others looked good.
The ball joint is actually at the end of the center drag link, I think its called. Looks like a bitch
Subscribed..
I will be pulling a toyhauler across the country with my 95 E350 and need to address the steering. While not as loose as some of the cases Iv read here. Not rock solid like I need it to be for my wife and I to feel comfortable flying down the interstate at 80 mph.
Edit:
I just looked closer at what I have and it looks like I'm all set up but its not a factory frame bracket..
But since I still have at least 4" of slop on the steering when on the interstate.. Where should I start next? Tightening the steering box preload screw?
Edit
I just found the ball joint at the end of the pitman arm very loose. The others looked good.
The ball joint is actually at the end of the center drag link, I think its called. Looks like a bitch
Subscribed..
#234
Added to a pre '92 E350
OK, I finally finished installint this upgrade to my '89 E350 Motorhome...
I went to the Jyard and grabbed the brackets from a mid '90s F250 Dually and they looked like this:
I figured that I couldn't use the chassis bracket (top one in pic) so I simply purchased one from a local dealer for around $50 +tax. The ford part number is F2UZ3E652A. I also got the U-bolts but forgot to put them in the picture...
Since the pre '92 vans didn't have this option from the factory, I had a choice of drilling the holes for the chassis bracket into ~1/4" steel frame or stick welding it on. The bottom hole would have been directly over a seam in the frame and welding is ALOT quicker and easier so:
I welded it!!
Here it is with a little paint:
The other bracket that I spent about $3.99 for at the Jyard saved me a bunch! It is ford part # F2UZ3E652B and Ford wants about $80 for it. The one I got worked perfectly!
Here is a pic with the shock installed:
Works great! Now I just need to replace my dried out sway bar bushings and it will drive alot better!!
Thanx everyone, Andrew expecially for this thread!!
SteveM14
I went to the Jyard and grabbed the brackets from a mid '90s F250 Dually and they looked like this:
I figured that I couldn't use the chassis bracket (top one in pic) so I simply purchased one from a local dealer for around $50 +tax. The ford part number is F2UZ3E652A. I also got the U-bolts but forgot to put them in the picture...
Since the pre '92 vans didn't have this option from the factory, I had a choice of drilling the holes for the chassis bracket into ~1/4" steel frame or stick welding it on. The bottom hole would have been directly over a seam in the frame and welding is ALOT quicker and easier so:
I welded it!!
Here it is with a little paint:
The other bracket that I spent about $3.99 for at the Jyard saved me a bunch! It is ford part # F2UZ3E652B and Ford wants about $80 for it. The one I got worked perfectly!
Here is a pic with the shock installed:
Works great! Now I just need to replace my dried out sway bar bushings and it will drive alot better!!
Thanx everyone, Andrew expecially for this thread!!
SteveM14
#235
Its become almost a sticky since there are frequent updates and new contributors keeping it alive---you too now!
Can you perhaps add larger images to your post? They seem a bit small to really see much detail. Getting old here!
Yeah Andrew started a great topic and thread for sure! Great job fabbing your own mounting system SteveM14---fresh paint makes everything look professional yes?
There's another thread running here now about your era's sway bar bushings--if anyone finds something workable or still available new parts it'll be good to pass that info along.
Can you perhaps add larger images to your post? They seem a bit small to really see much detail. Getting old here!
There's another thread running here now about your era's sway bar bushings--if anyone finds something workable or still available new parts it'll be good to pass that info along.
#236
Im not sure why the pic links wont take you to my photobucket
re-rod's Library | Photobucket
If you scroll down you will find it.
re-rod's Library | Photobucket
If you scroll down you will find it.
#237
Okay Re-Bar I did find a larger image---thanks for the second link!
If you have other steering component issues this stabilizer won't be much help. Some have posted good results with tightening the steering box but its also if too tight it only serves to hasten premature failure. Its best to inspect the entire front suspension yourself or have a trusted shop do it for you.
The drag link>Pitman arm ball joint can be twisted axially and it not be a problem---its meant to do that. Any side-to-side slop would be a huge concern though. Replacing the drag link is pretty easy since it only requires a few hand tools, NAPA and a few other outfits have them new for about $80, the lower grade but still good enough for the most part.
With your anticipated loads and speeds its best to work all this out before hitting the road.
If you have other steering component issues this stabilizer won't be much help. Some have posted good results with tightening the steering box but its also if too tight it only serves to hasten premature failure. Its best to inspect the entire front suspension yourself or have a trusted shop do it for you.
The drag link>Pitman arm ball joint can be twisted axially and it not be a problem---its meant to do that. Any side-to-side slop would be a huge concern though. Replacing the drag link is pretty easy since it only requires a few hand tools, NAPA and a few other outfits have them new for about $80, the lower grade but still good enough for the most part.
With your anticipated loads and speeds its best to work all this out before hitting the road.
#238
And now my steering is all over the road again.
Checked my recently installed steering stabilizer first obviously, good condition.
Steering box drop arm, ball joints, drag links and tie rods, you name it I checked it
Then one day, I was underneath the van and my youngest son (5 years) was playing around and "driving". I put my hand on the steering shaft from the steering wheel to steering box. There it is, the major problem
Don't know what that part is called, but that joint had a LOT of movement.
Anybody have a part number for that joint/shaft thing? Looks like a small U-joint.
It's for my 1995 Ford E-350 7.3 Powerstroke, base model.
Checked my recently installed steering stabilizer first obviously, good condition.
Steering box drop arm, ball joints, drag links and tie rods, you name it I checked it
Then one day, I was underneath the van and my youngest son (5 years) was playing around and "driving". I put my hand on the steering shaft from the steering wheel to steering box. There it is, the major problem
Don't know what that part is called, but that joint had a LOT of movement.
Anybody have a part number for that joint/shaft thing? Looks like a small U-joint.
It's for my 1995 Ford E-350 7.3 Powerstroke, base model.