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FAQ - Coil & Grounding Problem. Need help.

 
  #46  
Old 04-10-2009, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer View Post
Well as factory, upper starter bolt, with a tang to ground it to the frame around the center of the cable, midway through the cable length.

So you will have to improvise.

As for the starting problem. A worn out or misadjusted ignition switch can cause that.
What do you mean by a tang?

And ignition switch?Great.Is there any way I can test it to see if it's worn out?And if it's misadjusted,is there any way that I can readjust it?Thanks for the help.
 
  #47  
Old 04-10-2009, 10:56 PM
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i had a similar problem.that push button to release the key was shorting the wires in my steering column.i was blowing fuses,causing lots weird stuff.pulled the steering column apart.fixed bare wires and got rid of that push button.you obviously have a problem in the column.check all your wires top to bottom.good luck.
 
  #48  
Old 04-11-2009, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by fordtruckman80 View Post
What do you mean by a tang?

And ignition switch?Great.Is there any way I can test it to see if it's worn out?And if it's misadjusted,is there any way that I can readjust it?Thanks for the help.

It's basicly a eye connection where a bolt goes through. Simular to the one on the starter solenoid. Difference is the insulation is cut around the cable, and the eye connection is crimped around the cable leaving a place where you can bolt it to the frame.

Checking the ignition switch, check movement of the lock cylinder, and rod, is it nice and smooth, or does it bind? Is there any resistance trying to turn the switch to the start position? There should be some resistance from the spring in the ignition switch, but not so much as to make it hard to turn. Also does the switch spring back to the run position like it should, or do you have to move the switch back to the run position to get the radio and turn signals to work?

As for adjusting the ignition switch, you have to lower the column to reach it. Loosen the attaching screws and slightly move it lower or higher on the column relative to the lock cylinder rod. It may be wise to just get a replacement ignition switch at the same time. And instructions come with some ignition switches.
 
  #49  
Old 04-11-2009, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer View Post
It's basicly a eye connection where a bolt goes through. Simular to the one on the starter solenoid. Difference is the insulation is cut around the cable, and the eye connection is crimped around the cable leaving a place where you can bolt it to the frame.

Checking the ignition switch, check movement of the lock cylinder, and rod, is it nice and smooth, or does it bind? Is there any resistance trying to turn the switch to the start position? There should be some resistance from the spring in the ignition switch, but not so much as to make it hard to turn. Also does the switch spring back to the run position like it should, or do you have to move the switch back to the run position to get the radio and turn signals to work?

As for adjusting the ignition switch, you have to lower the column to reach it. Loosen the attaching screws and slightly move it lower or higher on the column relative to the lock cylinder rod. It may be wise to just get a replacement ignition switch at the same time. And instructions come with some ignition switches.

Oh okay I get it.

As far as the ignition switch,the lock cylinder and rod work very smoothly,and there is no binding.There is no resistance aside from the resistance by the spring.It isn't hard to turn the key either.The switch springs back,but i've never tried to see if it goes all the way back to run.I'll try that later today and post the results.I'm out at a buddy's house right now workin on his truck,so when I get home i'll check it and get back to ya.Thanks for all the help.
 
  #50  
Old 01-23-2016, 10:55 PM
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it is probably arching because of the coil wire without insulation it might be toasted by now replace the wires from the ICM to the coil. Check all your primary wiring because these old trucks wiring are fail after all these years. Auto zone has a pic of the wiring - of the ICM connections and where they hook up to. Black , Green, Orange, Purple, Red etc. I wasn't getting fire from the negative side of the coil till I hook up a new battery size cable with two female ends 9in .-- from a stud bolt on the side of the head to a frame bolt that was closed to the power steering pump . I use a grinder with wire brush and clean it all good from the top frame to bottom I grease it all down and now magic fire to the coil. I will be doing the same to the frame , tranny .
 

Last edited by Redstop; 01-23-2016 at 11:01 PM. Reason: miss spelling
 
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