got my 09 fxr..cold air intake?????
#3
If you do an online search for “air filter test” there is a lot of very good information. IMHO, the CAI units are NOT WORTH THE $$! Unless you are talking about a system that was specifically designed for a specific application there are very little hp/tq gains actually achieved in a street use vehicle and there are very few docs that these mfg’s can produce that actually show an increase in hp/tq in the power-band range of a relatively stock street vehicle.
I would avoid oil impregnated filters. While they have their purpose in off-road applications, Ford/GM/Dodge all have “watch-out” bulletins where the oil has contaminated intake sensors. - they even have a training video for the tech's on this (flatratetech.com) .
If you look at the flow data, WIX HP filters flow 98+% of K&N and have a much smoother flow post filter plus excellent filtering, for a fraction of the price! The OE’s have an excellent air intake system. What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with it’s noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed. You can use a WIX OEM HP replacement filter in the OEM plastic manifold box and either remove the plastic tube and replace it with a piece of pipe/hose, etc or remove the tube completely and replace the tube by building an air ram type intake into the air box manifold (where the pipe use to attach)- make sure ti terminates above the fan shroud to avoid water intake or fan induced pulsations.
I would avoid oil impregnated filters. While they have their purpose in off-road applications, Ford/GM/Dodge all have “watch-out” bulletins where the oil has contaminated intake sensors. - they even have a training video for the tech's on this (flatratetech.com) .
If you look at the flow data, WIX HP filters flow 98+% of K&N and have a much smoother flow post filter plus excellent filtering, for a fraction of the price! The OE’s have an excellent air intake system. What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with it’s noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed. You can use a WIX OEM HP replacement filter in the OEM plastic manifold box and either remove the plastic tube and replace it with a piece of pipe/hose, etc or remove the tube completely and replace the tube by building an air ram type intake into the air box manifold (where the pipe use to attach)- make sure ti terminates above the fan shroud to avoid water intake or fan induced pulsations.
#6
Sooo much for the factory warranty of the TBS, etc......check out the training program video posted as part of Ford's program on flatratetech,com...it specifically id's contamination issues and justification for denial of warranty claims
#7
As to if it is worth it, some people like the higher noise level over stock of most aftermarket CAI's, but noise does not always equate to performance, JUST THEIR PERCEPTION OF IT - after all if it more noisy, we are going faster, right?
The other thing to remember is that the RPM level that our stock engined trucks NORMALLY operate at, about 2500 rpm max - fuel is expensive - there is absolutly zero need for more air flow - although there is a whole aftermarket that wishes to convince you otherwise to part you from your hard earned dollars.
Say the dyno charts show a 7-10 hp gain at 5000 rpm. Big deal. How often and for how long do you run your truck at those rpms. And if you did, could you afford the fuel?
My question is this - what is the hp gain at a more usable and normal range of 1800 to 2500 rpm? Normally very little increase, IF ANY. Some, due to incomplete sealing around there cheaply made airboxes allow more hot underhood air to be sucked in, so real world horsepower, not on a dyno with the hood wide open, and a big electric fan running, but with the hood shut to trap the hot air in, you will see a DECREASE in horsepower.
I mean, that is the whole purpose of a CAI - *colder outside air, not heated engine compartment air. Why people think open element cone filters sitting at the end of a tube terminating in the engine compartment a "CAI" I cannot fathom. Are they really that ignorant I have to ask myself?
But then - there is a whole industry selling there version as the cure all. I am but one of a few that call BS - at least on a stock truck / stock engine.
MODIFIED engines that require a signifigant greater air flow can certainly benefit from changes to the stock system.
Good luck whichever way you decide - David
*Colder is relative here - it does not mean cold as in snow, just that between the outside and inside of the engine compartment you might see a 100 degree (or more) temp differential. hence "cold" outside air at 80 degrees is "cold" relative to "hot" 180 degree engine compartment air.
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