I would say dicey is a VERY nice way to put it!

FTE rocks, I am new here but feel totally comfortable asking questions and giving/getting advice.

I was thinking about it and the only difference I can think of in the MC is the plunger travel is a bit shorter (I think) in the Power assisted MC. Could make the pedal a bit tough without the booster, or maybe not? I have the booster on mine and it stops like a dream (mom even let's the twins ride along now!) Hope it works out, let me know if I can help.

Jake

 

The issue I see that one might have using a disc master on drum brakes is that since discs require a greater volume of fluid to make work, which is why the reservoir is larger on the one side in a disc/drum master, it may push too much fluid to the front wheel cylinders. OTOH, people routinely use the Corvette master, which began life as disc/disc, on disc/drum setups and we don't hear a lot of problems with that. Unless perhaps it's modified by the brake kit companies before distribution.

I guess what I'm saying is I don't have a definitive answer, but just tossing out some food for thought.

 

I turned a channel in them for an o-ring and tapped them in with a mallet (they are in there pretty good) . The only reason I did it this way was because I had the MC already but if I did it again I would just get a MC set up for remote fill like the one you posted a pic of and plumb it up to a res. on the firewall that looked right. I bet you could ask around at NAPA for a MC that would fit the bill.

I am going to rattlecan the billet res I have because at the moment it is the only shiny thing in the entire engine compartment I like the look of that res you picked out, I think something like that would work fine, the lines from the res to the MC are gravity fed (low pressure) so you could use barb fittings or whatever to get the fluid where it needs to go.

Jake

 

That's what I'm looking for. I can tear apart my trucks all day long and put them back together, they're both stock and I have been playing with them for years but when it comes to modified vehicles I'm totally in the dark and I'm depending on the know how of others who have been there.

 

Got this off the HAMB, I think this might be how I ended up with the master that I have.

Later model aluminum Mustang MC's have a removeable reservoir. The bolt pattern should be the same as the MC you have now. The fittings may vary but adapters will take care of that. A couple of simple nipples to plug into the Mustang cylinder will allow you to put a remote reservoir anywhere above the MC.

I'm using a Ranger aluminum MC. Same thing, essentially, but with the ports on the other side.

Maybe some of the GM aluminum stuff works the same way.

 

I found this last night on a discussion board, I think this is exactly like I'll be looking to do, except less heavy duty racing. :



Made with these cans:

 

Wow, now that is an interesting concept!

 

neccessity and poverty is the mother of invention. Cool idea.

jim

 

As I mentioned, this is for my '37 Buick and I'm trying to gather as much information on converting the brake system as I can. I've posted on the HAMB and on the Yahoo! Buick site. I've gotten luke warm reaction on the HAMB and have gotten not quite heat but the guys over there just don't see the reason to stray from stock. I figure it this way; first, I am not going to spend the money to make this car a 100 point show winner, I don't have the money or the patience to do this, so I'm going to try to incorporate some modern and non-stock equipment in this car to upgrade and save money. The Buick guys can't understand why I don't want to spend $200 for an original Buick MC, I can get any modern dual reservoir MC for between $20-50, I just have to figure out which one I need. Second, since I have to install a complete system, and I'm not going for show, I want the assurance of a two reservoir MC. The Buick guys think the single reservoir system is just as good and because Buick used it it's good. It's 70 year old technology, design theories and materials have changed.

I'm glad to be a member here because itseems the average member understands weighing safety against originality. I can really appreciate a person who wants to build a 100% stock truck, ain't nothing with that, but there seems to be more understanding for member who also go from stock to far out.

 

Hey Bob,

Do you see those little pin holes in the caps? My guess is that they siliconed in a bladder, something impervious to brake fluid, to allow for the draw down of fluid without pulling in air and contaminating the fluid with moisture. At the moment I am running my reservoir half full figuring it allows for the draw down (no problem so far) but I know the stock res has the rubber baffle on the back of the cap that will compensate for the drop in fluid volume. Just my 2c.

Cans are cool, go for it

Jake

 

Yes, that was one of my concerns but I think this might work:



This is a Dorman MC for a new GM product, they cost around $5

 

That looks perfect. I may use one myself. Thanks for doing the digging for the parts.

Jake