That is some good info. I will try to get to testing those areas this week-end if things do not get any better.

The brakes start of good but after about 5-10min of driving the pedal is right to the top and the brakes are sticking and then after a minute of sticking I get a pop from behind the steering and then the cycle starts over. The last time out the pop sounded like a squirt a couple of times.

It seems to be popping more often each day.

Thanks again

 

Try flushing the fluid in the PS system and see if that helps. A pop from the area behind the steering wheel could be something with the booster itself. Hopefully its just dirty fluid.

Also, did you bleed all four brakes or just the one with the rusted line? If you only did that one, I'd go through and bleed all four again, starting with the right rear, then left rear, right front, and left front (bleed them farthest to nearest).

 

Emergency brake not stuck. The brakes stick on all four wheels.

 

Hi everyone, this is my first post on one of these forums. So here's the deal. My 2003 f250 is having the same problem that idstumped was having. When cold brakes are fine, but when hot they lock up and the truck shakes violently at high speeds. My truck does the popping or clicking sound under the dash after a while and the brakes then loosen up. I didn't see a resolution here as to what causes the problem or the clicking sound. I did read the suggested thread and the resolution for that guy was to replace 3 bad calipers, but I didn't read anything on that thread about a clicking noise under the dash. My PS fluid is in range. The brake fluid is not brown and is at the proper level, no leaks. Could the clicking sound mean that Hydro boost is going bad or the master cylinder? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff.

 

If all 4 wheels are dragging I suspect a bad master cylinder or a push rod between the master and hydroboost. 1st step next time the brakes drag loosen and close 1 bleeder fitting on the front and 1 on the rear, if the brakes quit dragging then drive until they drag again, then loosen the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster a couple of turns, if they release then remove those 2 nuts and pull the MC off the booster, most push rods have an adjustment. Turn the adjustment to shorten the push rod, about 2 turns at most, and reinstall master cylinder and drive, if the problem returns you can shorten the push rod a couple more turns, just remember how much. If that does not fix it you have a bad master. After shortening push rop you may have a lower pedal, if the problem does not come back you can lengthen the push rod about a 1/2 turn at a time until pedal feels good. If the problem comes back then, shorten by 1/2 turn each try and drive until you know the problem is gone. If that takes care of the problem you may want to consider replacing the master anyway, it may have enough crud built up in the bores to allow the problem to reappear soon. If you do replace the MC readjust the push rod to the original starting point (remember I said to remember where you started) and try again, it may still take some tweaking even with a new master to get the pedal where you want it and not cause brake drag. On my'03 I had to lengthen the push rod with a new master to get a good pedal. Good luck.

 

Thank you for the reply. Next time it does this i will try it. I think in the next couple weeks I will replace the MC and the hydro boost unit. I bought my truck brand new in Aug 2002 when the 2003's came out, so I know those things are 14 years old and probably need replaced. Thanks again and I will post after I do the work to let people know if that was the final solution.

 

Diesel Jeff, Did you ever change your master cylinder and hydroboost? I am having the same brake sticking problem and popping noise under the dash. Please let me know if the master and hydroboost fixed it
Thanks
Mike

 

Hi Mike,
I ended up getting a new master cylinder and hydroboost and it has had no more problems since the work was completed in January. I really think it was just the hydroboost, but the master cylinder didn't cost all that much so I did both. I hope this helps.
DJ

 

Thank you so much DJ. I ordered a new master and used hydroboost last night so you just made me feel much better.
Greatly Appreciated
Mike

 

I have the same issue were all 4 brakes stick and its come to the point where im running my truck without brake fluid but it still brakes normally. not the most ideal way to run my ford but now the issue im having is that when i brake my rear tires bounce. i have bled my brakes dry and the pedal never went to the ground like its supposed to. so im thinking its the master cylinder but im not too sure about that. how can i test for this issue? Also i forgot to mention i have a f150 4x4

 

with NO brake fluid your truck CANNOT brake normally. With no fluid there is nothing to apply pressure to the pistons in the calipers, AND the pedal would have to go to the floor unless mechanically impeded. Bounce in the rear is most likely badly warped rotors or out of round tires. I would not drive this until you have somebody that knows and understands brakes looks at it.