soon to be lifted..79 f150..
#1
soon to be lifted..79 f150..
sittin here thinkin and well ill have a little bit of money soon to spend on my 79 f150...stock axles...i plan to lift with 6in super flex, rear shackel flip (and whatever i got to do to make it level..like add a few leafs, no block)..im going to do heim steering links. going to go with a solid stock with machined threads.. im guessing its got to be about half the price.. rite?? as for the radius arms go im extending them..was going to buy some extensions but im guessing that 10" wont be long enough (thats the length they sell).. so im going to once again use solid stock threaded one end for the arm (and weld it) and the other for the heim joint. once i figure out the length needed.. thoughts?? this truck will be for offroad only.. want a great trail rig with lots of flex. so that why im going heim. any oppinions on that?? i dont know if 7* c bushings will be enough for that lift.. i know that what JBG recomends but WILL it be enough for the correct angels? i DO NOT want drop brackets. want it up as high as possible.. Oppinions?? dont want have to return stuff. should i put the lift on then figure out the c bushings or just get the 7*? not to sure onn how im going to do the rear exactly get.. going to try to use stock springs. maybe add a few..im thinking chevy springs would be a pain in the bum. would have to buy different brackets and such. oppinions on this?? i have done search for everthing i ask here but have yet to find the rite info..
a little out of place but heres a question.... i know that when you do the shackel flip the axel moves forword about 3" but seeing as a dnt have bed and a 3" shorter wheel base may not be a bad idea, is there any other reasons to put the axle back in its place (-3")..which i belive spinning the leaf springs around will put it back...
well i got to grab the kido.. let me know your thoughts.. thank you
a little out of place but heres a question.... i know that when you do the shackel flip the axel moves forword about 3" but seeing as a dnt have bed and a 3" shorter wheel base may not be a bad idea, is there any other reasons to put the axle back in its place (-3")..which i belive spinning the leaf springs around will put it back...
well i got to grab the kido.. let me know your thoughts.. thank you
#2
so heres another question..probably dumb....is it better to have the drag link conected to the tie rod or on top of the knuckle?? i was wanting to do it on top of the knuckle.. pros? cons? or is it better to put the tie rod on top of the knuckle and drag link on the tie rod? what is the best steering setup for 79f150's with 6 inch lift?? thanks fellas
#3
What do you mean "solid stock"? Also if I was going for extreme flex I would build a custom radius arm setup out of DOM and heims. The factory bushings are great for low flex machines. But I would want a little more than a rubber bushing flexing for a flex machine. As for your axle position I would lower the front hanger about 2 inches to compesate for your axle being located closer. It would allow you to keep a softer spring pack and it would help with driveline angles.
#5
I would not extend anything. I would build custom links (4 link + track bar) out of DOM (drawn over mandrel steel) and Heim joints. And attach them from the middle of your frame to the axles. I would dump the stock C wedge radius arm design if I where you. I run drop brackets on my truck and it does fine. But mine is not built for rock crawling. If you have the fab skill and know how, you should not have much trouble pulling this off. If your are interested in doing something like this. Check out thetinians build thread in the off road section. I think he calls "my new build thread" is extreme but the basic components are the same.
On the subject of your steering. I personally would go with chevy one ton tie rods and locate the steering on top of the knuckle. On your d 44 you could even have the top of your passenger knuckle milled to accept a high steer arm so you could run a true high steer. Benefits of this is the chevy rods are cheap and can be had anywhere. they are brutally tuff and they dont transfer shock like heims. Heims are also not street legal everywhere which may or not be an issue
On the subject of your steering. I personally would go with chevy one ton tie rods and locate the steering on top of the knuckle. On your d 44 you could even have the top of your passenger knuckle milled to accept a high steer arm so you could run a true high steer. Benefits of this is the chevy rods are cheap and can be had anywhere. they are brutally tuff and they dont transfer shock like heims. Heims are also not street legal everywhere which may or not be an issue
#6
I would not extend anything. I would build custom links (4 link + track bar) out of DOM (drawn over mandrel steel) and Heim joints. And attach them from the middle of your frame to the axles. I would dump the stock C wedge radius arm design if I where you. I run drop brackets on my truck and it does fine. But mine is not built for rock crawling. If you have the fab skill and know how, you should not have much trouble pulling this off. If your are interested in doing something like this. Check out thetinians build thread in the off road section. I think he calls "my new build thread" is extreme but the basic components are the same.
On the subject of your steering. I personally would go with chevy one ton tie rods and locate the steering on top of the knuckle. On your d 44 you could even have the top of your passenger knuckle milled to accept a high steer arm so you could run a true high steer. Benefits of this is the chevy rods are cheap and can be had anywhere. they are brutally tuff and they dont transfer shock like heims. Heims are also not street legal everywhere which may or not be an issue
On the subject of your steering. I personally would go with chevy one ton tie rods and locate the steering on top of the knuckle. On your d 44 you could even have the top of your passenger knuckle milled to accept a high steer arm so you could run a true high steer. Benefits of this is the chevy rods are cheap and can be had anywhere. they are brutally tuff and they dont transfer shock like heims. Heims are also not street legal everywhere which may or not be an issue
#7
This is how I would construct the steering.
This utilizes drag links made from dom and chevy tie rods.
This link will give some more steering options.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...teering-2.html
This utilizes drag links made from dom and chevy tie rods.
This link will give some more steering options.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...teering-2.html
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#11
Heims are cool, and lot of people run them, they do flex really good, I guess the main reason I don't run them, is because I have family in the parts business and I can get the chevy tie rods much cheaper than I can get Heims, and Strength is not compromised with the larger chevy tie rods. If you go that route you'll have to find or buy a 7.15* reamer to enlarge your holes or put the tie rod on top.
If you go with heims which admittedly might be the better choice for what you are planning on doing, then be sure to do your research on the correct way to fasten them to your pitman arm and knuckles. Ex. No grade 5 or even grade 8 bolts. Steering is not something you want skimp on, its kinda important.
What is your plan for the actual rods themselves. As in what the heims or tre's screw into?
If you go with heims which admittedly might be the better choice for what you are planning on doing, then be sure to do your research on the correct way to fasten them to your pitman arm and knuckles. Ex. No grade 5 or even grade 8 bolts. Steering is not something you want skimp on, its kinda important.
What is your plan for the actual rods themselves. As in what the heims or tre's screw into?
#12
Heims are cool, and lot of people run them, they do flex really good, I guess the main reason I don't run them, is because I have family in the parts business and I can get the chevy tie rods much cheaper than I can get Heims, and Strength is not compromised with the larger chevy tie rods. If you go that route you'll have to find or buy a 7.15* reamer to enlarge your holes or put the tie rod on top.
If you go with heims which admittedly might be the better choice for what you are planning on doing, then be sure to do your research on the correct way to fasten them to your pitman arm and knuckles. Ex. No grade 5 or even grade 8 bolts. Steering is not something you want skimp on, its kinda important.
What is your plan for the actual rods themselves. As in what the heims or tre's screw into?
If you go with heims which admittedly might be the better choice for what you are planning on doing, then be sure to do your research on the correct way to fasten them to your pitman arm and knuckles. Ex. No grade 5 or even grade 8 bolts. Steering is not something you want skimp on, its kinda important.
What is your plan for the actual rods themselves. As in what the heims or tre's screw into?
#15