First time Diesel Owner with F450 and some quetions
#46
Just changed my oil this afternoon after coming home from shop. It isn't diffcult. Just make sure you use OEM (Motorcraft) Filters. An oil change takes a 19MM socket for the drain plug and a 36MM socket for the filter. Motorcraft oil filters can be purchased at Wal-Mart for around $19.00
I bought my last set of Motorcraft fuel and oil filters on eBay as a package deal for less than what the fuel filters normally cost. They are the updated fuel filters too!
I'd recommend doing an oil analysis, even if it costs you $25.00. As I think I've said before on this thread, mine doesn't cost me any more than collecting it and paying the postage because Archer Petroleum provides that free of charge to their diesel engine oil customers.
Pull the drain plug. Loosen the oil filter cap enough so air can enter the filter housing. Let it drain down for a bit before removing the filter. Some use a tin foil pie plate under the filter when removing to prevent dripping on the engine (it is in the engine valley, the right* one of two filters. The other is the final fuel filter). Let the oil drain well. Replace the drain plug. Snap the old filter out of the cap and remove the o-ring. Install the new O-Ring and snap the new filter into the cap. Fit it into the cannister. A slight down pressure will be required to collapse the spring so that the threads will begin to engage. Do not overtorque.
Fuel filter change isn't that tough either, although the primary (rail) filter is in a tight spot and one must hold his mouth right to get it done. These require the same 36MM socket. I find that a long extension comes in handy on the primary filter.
Open your drain valve now that it drains. Loosen the final (left* one in engine valley) filter cap enough to allow air to enter the housing. When fuel has quit draining from drain valve remove and replace filters and cap o-rings. Clean filter housings if necessary. Install new filters using critical care not to introduce debris into the system. Do not overtorque. Purge air from system by cycling key switch on for 30 seconds or so and then off about 5 or 6 times. Your engine should now start and run normally.
* directions given assuming one is sitting in the driver's seat facing forward.
Enjoy and God bless!
I bought my last set of Motorcraft fuel and oil filters on eBay as a package deal for less than what the fuel filters normally cost. They are the updated fuel filters too!
I'd recommend doing an oil analysis, even if it costs you $25.00. As I think I've said before on this thread, mine doesn't cost me any more than collecting it and paying the postage because Archer Petroleum provides that free of charge to their diesel engine oil customers.
Pull the drain plug. Loosen the oil filter cap enough so air can enter the filter housing. Let it drain down for a bit before removing the filter. Some use a tin foil pie plate under the filter when removing to prevent dripping on the engine (it is in the engine valley, the right* one of two filters. The other is the final fuel filter). Let the oil drain well. Replace the drain plug. Snap the old filter out of the cap and remove the o-ring. Install the new O-Ring and snap the new filter into the cap. Fit it into the cannister. A slight down pressure will be required to collapse the spring so that the threads will begin to engage. Do not overtorque.
Fuel filter change isn't that tough either, although the primary (rail) filter is in a tight spot and one must hold his mouth right to get it done. These require the same 36MM socket. I find that a long extension comes in handy on the primary filter.
Open your drain valve now that it drains. Loosen the final (left* one in engine valley) filter cap enough to allow air to enter the housing. When fuel has quit draining from drain valve remove and replace filters and cap o-rings. Clean filter housings if necessary. Install new filters using critical care not to introduce debris into the system. Do not overtorque. Purge air from system by cycling key switch on for 30 seconds or so and then off about 5 or 6 times. Your engine should now start and run normally.
* directions given assuming one is sitting in the driver's seat facing forward.
Enjoy and God bless!
Last question, what oil should I use? Does Motorcraft have their own oil I can buy at the dealer? i know people say not to bother using syntehtic on these.
#47
Motorcraft 15W-40, CJ-4. You can buy it reasonably at Wal-Mart as well in 5 quart jugs. You'll need 3 jugs. I believe it in itself is a parasynthetic. I personally use Archer Gold 15W-40, which is also a parasynthetic. It'd not be found in your area though, unless you had it shipped in.
Last edited by Larry NCKS; 01-19-2011 at 08:04 PM. Reason: typos and additions
#48
Thanks again for all the help! good group of people here!
While we are on my new truck subject, can anyone answer 2 things about the F450 for me?
1. It says in a brochure the F450 with 4:88 rear end only has 300HP and 600tq? if so WHY?
2. What is the top speed of the F450? The fastest I hit with it was 80mph. It does not feel like it really wants to be doing that, so i keep it around 70mph. People have said it is limited to what? 80 or 85mph? and if you hit the limiter you get some light on the dash that comes on? is this true?
I am not trying to do top speed runs, like i said, i keep it around 70mph, but I am just curious.
While we are on my new truck subject, can anyone answer 2 things about the F450 for me?
1. It says in a brochure the F450 with 4:88 rear end only has 300HP and 600tq? if so WHY?
2. What is the top speed of the F450? The fastest I hit with it was 80mph. It does not feel like it really wants to be doing that, so i keep it around 70mph. People have said it is limited to what? 80 or 85mph? and if you hit the limiter you get some light on the dash that comes on? is this true?
I am not trying to do top speed runs, like i said, i keep it around 70mph, but I am just curious.
#50
#51
So you changed both fuel filters at the same time and it will start? I am so afraid if I do that it might not start. I have a 2010 F-250 with 27,000 miles. I took it to the dealer to change the fuel filters for me for a first time in 21,000 miles. If it is that easy to start the engine with no problems then I would like to change filters myself to save money.
#52
I have a brochure from back in 08, and at the bottom it says *F450 with 4:88 rear axle has 300HP 600tq. It did not mention for a manual tranny, so now I am curious...
#54
I stand corrected. power is limited on ALL manual transmissions, and also on all 4.88 rear ends in f-450's, again, the only reason I could ever come up with is that with the weight these things are meant to haul, they were worried about u-joints. (just my idea only) don't have any proof for that one. here is the link to the brochure http://www.jomacltd.com/ford-trucks/2008-F-Series.pdf
#55
Oh? you have a 250? then your 96mph top speed does not apply to me.... I know the top speed is limited on the 450 because the commerical tires. But I want to know what the top speed is, and I still dont understand why they made it less power.
#56
So you changed both fuel filters at the same time and it will start? I am so afraid if I do that it might not start. I have a 2010 F-250 with 27,000 miles. I took it to the dealer to change the fuel filters for me for a first time in 21,000 miles. If it is that easy to start the engine with no problems then I would like to change filters myself to save money.
But yes, I change both fuel filters simultaneously and have had no restart issues following the procedures I previously outlined.
#57
your best bet is to find a long, straight road, put it to the floor and hold it there. when the speed limiter kicks in, you'll feel it skipping, missing, chugging, or whatever. then you'll know exactly what it cuts out at.
#58
Looking at this from the heavy equipment view, rarely does the manufacture rate the engine for all the HP/Torque it can handle, rather they rate it for longevity, I would assume that since the rig came with 4.88 that it was intended to haul heavyand as such used commercially. to get the best longevity out of the design Ford de-rates the engine the same way Cat/Cummins/Detroit would.
For the Manual trans rigs the hp/tq rating are lower due to the direct link ( Clutch)
#59
So you changed both fuel filters at the same time and it will start? I am so afraid if I do that it might not start. I have a 2010 F-250 with 27,000 miles. I took it to the dealer to change the fuel filters for me for a first time in 21,000 miles. If it is that easy to start the engine with no problems then I would like to change filters myself to save money.
came in, checked FTE.. oh SIX times 30 seconds each.. (sheesh, picky pumps)..
went back out and cranked it 3 more times.. fired right up..
changed once since then too.. no problem this time.. (other than its a 4x2 so getting under is a pita)..
Sam
#60
Update,
Today I drove the truck (cold start this morning) after about 5 mninutes of driving, under acceleration i saw a lot of whiteish or blue smoke coming from the exhaust, it did it maybe for 30 seconds, then i heard the truck start to clean the exhaust, and it stopped and does not come back at all. Then i drove about 200 miles, was disconnecting my trailer, heard the truck start to clean the exhaust in park while i was unhooking the trailer, i then left, and accelerated away, and the same white/blue smoke, again, only for about 30 seconds then it totally stops. Any ideas?
Today I drove the truck (cold start this morning) after about 5 mninutes of driving, under acceleration i saw a lot of whiteish or blue smoke coming from the exhaust, it did it maybe for 30 seconds, then i heard the truck start to clean the exhaust, and it stopped and does not come back at all. Then i drove about 200 miles, was disconnecting my trailer, heard the truck start to clean the exhaust in park while i was unhooking the trailer, i then left, and accelerated away, and the same white/blue smoke, again, only for about 30 seconds then it totally stops. Any ideas?