I recently had my truck at the dealer for a check engine light and they re-flashed it while it was there. I have noticed my fuel mileage has been slightly better since the re-flash (11.8 versus 11.3) over the last 3 tanks. And yes, that is about as good as it gets on a stock 450. Mine has 4.88's too so I feel your pain.

 

Yeah, pretty much what I posted, I had just entered the highway ramp, was probably going about 65mph-70mph, and i look out my rearview and i see like a black smoke coming from the exhaust, pretty consistant, and blowing very hard. It just kept blowing black smoke, but when i let off the gas it stopped, and when i got on the gas it started again, It did it for about 25 seconds, then i heard it regen, and it stopped, and never startred again that day, or also have never seen it since. What do you think about that?

 

I must have jinxed myself, ever since i said i was getting 11mpg, i noticed now i am been getting about 10.5 - 10.7

 

Mine will fluctuate from 10.5 to 11.8 depending on how I drive. Between 60 and 65 seems to work best for me.

 

Is it just me, or is it a fact that a DPF wouldnt allow any color of smoke out unless theres a major crack or something...

 

Ok guys, here is a update. I heard my truck regen today, and I quickly scrolled threw the menu, went in system check, and it never said anything about cleaning exhaust. I tired it like 10 times while driving too. I will ask the dealer to reflash it.

Also, regarding draining the water in the fuel. I tried it today, on as level ground as possible. I opened the gas tank, got a nice drip drip, but no steady flow of fuel. So I pretty much did what senix said, but instead of me taking off all 5 torx screws, i only took off the lower 3, and that removed just the cover with the open/close valve. As I did this, i got a lot of fuel driping out. When the cover was off, I used a thin zip tie, and I stuck it up and back in the hole and fuel starting pouring out FAST for the first time ever. I let it go for about 2 minutes or so, and it started to really slow down, at the end it was just dripping, i kept sticking the thin zip tie in an out, and tried to clean out the hole as much as possible, i got LOTS of dirty looking stuff come out, and lot of ugly slime. I will take off the entire thing when i have more time. I was doing this in the dark with a flash light. Here is a picture of what came out! look how ugly and dirty it is. All the dirt area seems to be in with the water.

When i had my fuel filters replaced, why didnt they spot this? or clean it for me?

 

[QUOTE=Bruce P;9839553]I to have this loud ringing whine in my truck when I get it up to 1800- 2000 rpm
Here is my post
I recently purchased a 2008 F250 super-duty with the 6.4 L PS diesel with 59,000 km on the truck, The turbo and exhaust sounded funny about a week after purchased the truck with a ringing whine in the turbo I think and/or exhaust (Intermittent).
I still have the ringing whine in the exhaust which as a very high pitched ring whine that resonates in the exahust at about 1800 RPM and is VERY loud but intermitte, The dealer heard the sound once or twice and it's loud it but does not know what it is or how to fix it and said just drive it until it get much more frequent until they can figure out where it is coming from
Has anyone else had this problem??


The reason I asked about the temp is that my F450's first problem with 6k miles was a crack in one of the pipes coming off/going(crossover? can't remember the name) to the turbo. Will have to ask my tech which one it was. I got a high pitched 'ringing' just as you described. But it was only at normal temps. The pipe was the second one my dealer had to replace. I know the pipe is on the right rear on the engine and required taking the tranny loose to get the pipe off/on. Only took half a day though.

 

good deal. Imagine what that would do to the HPFP and injectors.

 

Back when Dad got his first diesel engine, a Farmall 656 farm tractor in 1969, I think the words Buy clean fuel Keep it clean were stamped right into the top of the filler cap. This just reinforces that. Whenever I'm at home I'll only buy premium diesel from a reputable supplier. When I'm on the road, I get what is available.

In the eleven years I was a wheatwacker, my IH 436 diesel engine that stayed home and burned only Ruby Red for 6300 hours never had the injection system touched and never really drained any bad stuff or water from the fuel system. My IH 436 and 466 engines that went on the road and burned some merky looking fuel, had pump and injector troubles around 4000 hours.

 

So this goes back to my other question, the dealer should not have seen this when they changed my fuel filters maybe 4k miles ago?

 

i would have thought so. maybe just the oil change boy doing the work and knows nothing about what he is touching.

 

All it takes is one bad tank of fuel. I know you have had more than that in 4,000 miles. You might have to drain in 100 miles to see if you got water again.

 

I think they said the diesel tech did it, but god knows! For all i know they charge you and never even did it! I hate dealers! Are there any write ups here on DIY oil changes and fuel filter changes?

 

Just changed my oil this afternoon after coming home from shop. It isn't diffcult. Just make sure you use OEM (Motorcraft) Filters. An oil change takes a 19MM socket for the drain plug and a 36MM socket for the filter. Motorcraft oil filters can be purchased at Wal-Mart for around $19.00

I bought my last set of Motorcraft fuel and oil filters on eBay as a package deal for less than what the fuel filters normally cost. They are the updated fuel filters too!

I'd recommend doing an oil analysis, even if it costs you $25.00. As I think I've said before on this thread, mine doesn't cost me any more than collecting it and paying the postage because Archer Petroleum provides that free of charge to their diesel engine oil customers.

Pull the drain plug. Loosen the oil filter cap enough so air can enter the filter housing. Let it drain down for a bit before removing the filter. Some use a tin foil pie plate under the filter when removing to prevent dripping on the engine (it is in the engine valley, the right* one of two filters. The other is the final fuel filter). Let the oil drain well. Replace the drain plug. Snap the old filter out of the cap and remove the o-ring. Install the new O-Ring and snap the new filter into the cap. Fit it into the cannister. A slight down pressure will be required to collapse the spring so that the threads will begin to engage. Do not overtorque.

Fuel filter change isn't that tough either, although the primary (rail) filter is in a tight spot and one must hold his mouth right to get it done. These require the same 36MM socket. I find that a long extension comes in handy on the primary filter.

Open your drain valve now that it drains. Loosen the final (left* one in engine valley) filter cap enough to allow air to enter the housing. When fuel has quit draining from drain valve remove and replace filters and cap o-rings. Clean filter housings if necessary. Install new filters using critical care not to introduce debris into the system. Do not overtorque. Purge air from system by cycling key switch on for 30 seconds or so and then off about 5 or 6 times. Your engine should now start and run normally.

* directions given assuming one is sitting in the driver's seat facing forward.

Enjoy and God bless!

 

Larry has got you pretty well covered. You have already been working on the fuel water separator so there is not a whole lot more too it.

Be sure to put some clean oil on the new o-rings for the caps. Torque specs are on the cap.