85 F250 2wd 460 - Can't get past 80kph
#1
85 F250 2wd 460 - Can't get past 80kph
Just bought the truck...Has 77,000 Km on it...Idles smooth...
Get it on the highway...Get to 80kph...Gets sluggish/Loses power...Step on the gas and it seems worse and starts backfiring...Feather the gas and it will slowly gain speed...
Truck ran perfect (100 kph) first two hours I had it...Then the problem started...
Thoughts?
Get it on the highway...Get to 80kph...Gets sluggish/Loses power...Step on the gas and it seems worse and starts backfiring...Feather the gas and it will slowly gain speed...
Truck ran perfect (100 kph) first two hours I had it...Then the problem started...
Thoughts?
#2
#3
Thanks for the response...Will focus my research in that direction...
If it's in the ignition, wouldn't the problem exists at idle and slower speeds? High RPM like at a shift point?
Blubbering is a good way to describe what's happening...As I let off the gas, it gets to a point where she'll kick in for power then drop off...Too much gas then it drains to the correct level gives the power gain then due to foot not on the gas drops off again...
Looking at the PV...Is there an easy test for that?
If it's in the ignition, wouldn't the problem exists at idle and slower speeds? High RPM like at a shift point?
Blubbering is a good way to describe what's happening...As I let off the gas, it gets to a point where she'll kick in for power then drop off...Too much gas then it drains to the correct level gives the power gain then due to foot not on the gas drops off again...
Looking at the PV...Is there an easy test for that?
#4
You can have the ignition box tested at most 'Big Box' auto parts stores.
I had made the suggestion before to unscrew it from the fender and place it on top of the engine before driving there in order to make sure it is hot when tested.
They tend to fail when hot and it gives you a chance to examine the potting (plastic sealant) on the underside for signs of melting or boiling.
The ignition timing will need to be checked with a timing light.
This is a basic test and the emissions compliance sticker on the radiator support will have the info. (usually something like 8-10* BTDC at 750rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged)
I assume the sticker will still be there if you are in Canada... You are reading in Kph?
To see if the powervalve is blown out look down into the primary throttle bore with the engine warmed up and at idle. You should not any raw fuel pouring out of the annular boosters.
If this is the case you will likely have lots of black smoke, fouled plugs and popping on decelleration.
The extra fuel will also cause excessive engine wear by washing any lubricating oil off the cylinder walls, so this should be addressed right away.
This is a start, and my first thoughts on your symptoms.
See if you find the problem. If not then more specific questions and answers will get to the root of it.
It is a simple engine and very reliable.
I had made the suggestion before to unscrew it from the fender and place it on top of the engine before driving there in order to make sure it is hot when tested.
They tend to fail when hot and it gives you a chance to examine the potting (plastic sealant) on the underside for signs of melting or boiling.
The ignition timing will need to be checked with a timing light.
This is a basic test and the emissions compliance sticker on the radiator support will have the info. (usually something like 8-10* BTDC at 750rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged)
I assume the sticker will still be there if you are in Canada... You are reading in Kph?
To see if the powervalve is blown out look down into the primary throttle bore with the engine warmed up and at idle. You should not any raw fuel pouring out of the annular boosters.
If this is the case you will likely have lots of black smoke, fouled plugs and popping on decelleration.
The extra fuel will also cause excessive engine wear by washing any lubricating oil off the cylinder walls, so this should be addressed right away.
This is a start, and my first thoughts on your symptoms.
See if you find the problem. If not then more specific questions and answers will get to the root of it.
It is a simple engine and very reliable.
#5
Went and hauled a load of wood today...Maybe 300 feet of travel...Had the truck warmed up...Forgot to check the power valve as per suggested...Though I never had any black smoke at any time...
I will check it out tomorrow and may post a few pics...Maybe you guys will see something I don't...
Though I did pop open the hood to take a peek at the carb...There was a stamped number in front and what I will assume as an inline filter...
I also had a bit of a stumbling happening as I came through the yard though...It was from moving after a stop (to drop off the chainsaw at my carpentry shop) that it happened...
Not sure if it's related to my problem but I'd rather give too much information than not enough...
I will check it out tomorrow and may post a few pics...Maybe you guys will see something I don't...
Though I did pop open the hood to take a peek at the carb...There was a stamped number in front and what I will assume as an inline filter...
I also had a bit of a stumbling happening as I came through the yard though...It was from moving after a stop (to drop off the chainsaw at my carpentry shop) that it happened...
Not sure if it's related to my problem but I'd rather give too much information than not enough...
#7
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#8
#11
I did not say it was the only problem, but the speed limited to 80 kph is a classic weak coil issue. The back firing could well be a tune up issue and he should do that anyway, anytime you buy a used vehicle from an individual. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Then see what issues the truck still has. I doubt very much this is a carb problem. Timing being off could well be the PO screwed up or the timing chain is bad and it jumped timing, which could cause all his problems and the PO screwed him in that case.
#12
#14
No, that is typically a weak ignition problem. Fuel delivery problem generally show up close to WOT not while accelerating to WOT.
#15
Would a stuck choke plate be a possible cause?...
I went out to the truck again for another look and the plate was a bit stuck as per the above photo...A little pressure and it now will flip shut and wide open...
I am planning on replacing the spark plugs and wires soon as well as the fuel filter.
I went out to the truck again for another look and the plate was a bit stuck as per the above photo...A little pressure and it now will flip shut and wide open...
I am planning on replacing the spark plugs and wires soon as well as the fuel filter.