Not stuck that far open it shouldn't. If it was only open about a 1/4 of the way maybe or if it was stuck closed far enough to cause an idling issue. But it is not causing the backfiring or the missing.

Do a proper tune up, cap rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filters (the one in the carb inlet and the one on the truck frame rail), set the timing correctly and put some Seafoam in the fuel tank. Then see what problems, if any you still have.

 

This has not been my experience. Pressing down on the accelerator puts more strain on fuel delivery than on the ignition.

 

Step down on the gas an the fuel already in the carb deals with it, once the float level drops then you would experience a running issue, not immediately. Whereas the ignition has to immediately deal with the richer fuel/air mixture. I get the feeling you are and EFI guy because that is what EFI does as there is no reserve fuel in a float bowl.

 

I'm 50 YOA and if his fuel pump is weak enough or his fuel filter is plugged enough that the thing is already running poorly just trying to get up to speed, then the float bowl is already almost empty. I've seen considerably more bad fuel pumps/fuel filters than I have bad coils. I don't want to argue with you about this, I just wanted to throw out another possible issue he *might* be having.

 

Your logic is flawed. The only way that would show up is if the float level was way low too.

 

I am building a list of parts for the truck...

Recently added is a new ignition keylock... -31 degree weather and I turn the damn key and bent something...I think...

Also on my list is a new fuel pump for the front tank...When I switched tanks last night the truck ran for a bit then started to die out, switched to the back tank and it fired up again...

Course I will be doing items from cheapest to the more expensive...After all I can run on the back tank for a while...

Oh...For the record...I have had no running issues with the truck until I near the 80Kph mark...

 

I know it's been while since I've posted on here...Been lurking...

I've also kept the truck on the farm so it hasn't seen much for highway driving...

Took it to pick up some chickens...So was on the highway...Same problem after a few miles...

If I continuously flicked the switch between tanks I got her up past 80 without any more issues...Thoughts?

She has new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and coil...And filters have been changed...

 

I still say it's fuel or fuel delivery - how old is the gas in the tank?

 

Tank has been emptied and filled multiple times...

 

But the sludge, rust, swarf... in the tank is still there.
Suction draws it to the in-tank filter (sock) until it restricts the flow to the point you can't maintain speeds above 50 mph.

Switching from one tank to the other allows road vibration and sloshing fuel to uncover the filter and you have better fuel flow.

(At least this is what I get from jas88's post)

 

Sorry for not hitting up the site lately...Had the truck parked for a while...The socks were the problem...No foam filter left in them so when the pump kicked it they would starve the pump...$2 filters and it's good to go

 

Thanks for the update. $2 was the easy part. You forgot the labor charge for the troubleshooting and uninstalling, and installing the tank. Think of what you would have paid for a dealership to do that job. People wonder why they pay so much at the dealership these days.

Sent from my iPad using IB AutoGroup

 

Fuel delivery problem. I believe somebody here said that. :-)