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Idle speed is controlled by the throttle stop at the linkage on the drivers side.
Idle *mixture* is the screws under the caps on the base flange.
You're going to need a little flex shaft allen (hex) mixture adjustment tool if you need to mess with those.
...I just bought a remanned Motorcraft Distributor. It is the D4006 model, with single vac advance. I am just curious as to if this should drop in my 84 Ford 460 with a factory carb. The parts place said it would, but I would rather not install it and then try to send it back and they tell me no. ...
./..I just pulled this new dizzy out of the box too. I noticed the blue cap I got didn't have any metal contacts sticking out of the holes. I don't think that this is correct, or perhaps the wires that I purchased were wrong. My wires don't appear to have a long enough male end to fit down inside the cap more then an inch or so. Will this suffice?...
/....Alright I thought so, much appreciated I'm pissed at my ignorance. Now with my new distributor can I just throw on my old cap and rotor and my new plug wires? Send the new cap and rotor back with my old dizzy for the core charge?
You already know the proper part numbers for the DSII cap rotor and adapter from another one of your threads,
The parts store could care less about the cap & rotor, they need the CORE.
Would you expect a used cap and rotor to come with your "new" re-man Dizzy?
Originally Posted by glovemeister
Yeah sorry its not exactly like that one. I've been using LMC and NPD to see how exactly I messed up here. I appreciate the aluminum deal my new cap came with that crap. I paid a pretty penny like $110 total for this new dizzy. Its only $70 after the core charge. I figured if I sprang for the motorcraft it would be a good thing.Your help is much appreciated!....
/...I am thinking with this new dizzy, wires, cap, rotor (if the others are bad). If I adjust timing and it still does not work out correctly hen my idle speed on the 4180 carb is too high? IIRC I have to drill out the plugs on the bottom half of the carb and adjust or is that something different?
As long as you have a distributor with the two clips to hold the adapter and not the screws the DSII adapter and cap will fit fine.
This is a thread about your new distributor.
The only way it will affect idle speed is if it is not adjusted correctly or the vacuum advance cannot be adjusted.
Do you know which advance slots your new distributor has in the reluctor plate?
Originally Posted by glovemeister
So I need to mess with the ones concealed right?
What are you trying to do to your carburetor?
You only need to access the mixture screws if you need to adjust the idle mixture.
High idle can be caused by any number of things. We've been through that.
Get the truck running as it should, then, start screwing around if you feel you must.
Don't mess with the idle mixture screws which are under the carb and concealed by a
plug, if the idle mixture seems OK. The idle speed screw is located on the throttle side
of the carb and is easy to adjust with a screwdriver. A too high idle speed can also be
caused by a vacuum leak or sometimes by the fast idle linkage on the choke adjustment.
Don't mess with the idle mixture screws which are under the carb and concealed by a
plug, if the idle mixture seems OK. The idle speed screw is located on the throttle side
of the carb and is easy to adjust with a screwdriver. A too high idle speed can also be
caused by a vacuum leak or sometimes by the fast idle linkage on the choke adjustment.
Appreciate it! Well some good news PCV changed out real easy.
Not so good news, the crankcase breather cap on the right side valve, had the end broke off of it. I did a bit of cutting and got the hose onto the breather element that is inside the crankcase. Does this need to be air tight?
Lastly, I went out and was looking for the timing marks but near as I can tell the item they are found on were busted off some how. Would this even be possible?
Not so good news, the crankcase breather cap on the right side valve, had the end broke off of it. I did a bit of cutting and got the hose onto the breather element that is inside the crankcase. Does this need to be air tight?
No, it's a breather, it needs to 'breath'
I don't get what you're saying "breather element inside the crankcase"
The breather element doubles as the oil fill cap on the valve cover.
The crankcase holds the crank, cam and pistons.
I think the harmonic balancer is there but the timing pointer is busted off it appears.
Good news got the distributor and new wires on, bad news I think I broke a finger but oh well. Other bad news I gotta get the distributor reversed, apparently my marks got moved but I will get it done.
The harmonic balancer is missing???
What is the crankshaft pulley bolted to?
Wouldn't it shake like crazy?
I checked and the balancer is there, but whatever the timing point is on is busted off my engine. I forgot to add, I tried to vaccumn advance on my old distributor I could suck air through it and it didn't even try to lock up. So I'm sure that was a big issue with the truck. Never know tell you take stuff apart.
I don't get what you're saying "breather element inside the crankcase"
The breather element doubles as the oil fill cap on the valve cover.
The crankcase holds the crank, cam and pistons.
Ok on my drivers side valve cover I have a breather cap. An elbow is on top of this which leads to a hose which leads to the breather element inside the carb. I had to do some gerry rigging from the hose to the breather element inside the carb. I wasn't sure if it needs to be air tight.
Ok on my drivers side valve cover I have a breather cap. An elbow is on top of this which leads to a hose which leads to the breather element inside the carb. I had to do some gerry rigging from the hose to the breather element inside the carb. I wasn't sure if it needs to be air tight.
I don't suppose it needs to be air tight, it's a breather.
I posted a part# and pic in one of your other threads.
The plastic housing, sponge, clip and sealing washer come all together for under $5. (everything BUT the hose)
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