Automatic Transmission Fluid service questions
#1
Automatic Transmission Fluid service questions
I just bought this truck with 109K
I suspect the transmission fluid has never been changed.
The fluid is darker than new but not burnt.
Can I have a flush (complete) and filter change done without damage to the transmission?
I have been told that if the fluid has never been changed then don't do it.
If this is the case can someone explain this logic?
I suspect the transmission fluid has never been changed.
The fluid is darker than new but not burnt.
Can I have a flush (complete) and filter change done without damage to the transmission?
I have been told that if the fluid has never been changed then don't do it.
If this is the case can someone explain this logic?
#2
The idea of a flush damaging a transmission is due to the flush breaking loose particles and causing them to get caught in the passages. It is hard to prove or disprove due to not really knowing the health of the transmission before. Most cases the transmission was probably already shot and new fluid was blamed for it.
If you are worried, you can always drain the fluid and swap in a new filter. Then add what was removed from the pan. This way the new fluid is diluted and you will run less of a risk than doing a flush with a machine. I would also suggest installing a filter like a Magnefine inline after the cooler. It will capture any debris and is much easier to change than the pan filter. After a few thousand miles you can drain the pan again, and refill. As you do that you will slowly dilute the fluid to where it is mostly new, and with the Magnefine, it will be clean. If you think you have any debris in the fluid, you should plan on changing the Magnefine after a few thousand miles, then again ever 10k or so.
I tow with mine, so I change the fluid at 15k to stay on top of it and ensure I have fresh fluid.
If you are worried, you can always drain the fluid and swap in a new filter. Then add what was removed from the pan. This way the new fluid is diluted and you will run less of a risk than doing a flush with a machine. I would also suggest installing a filter like a Magnefine inline after the cooler. It will capture any debris and is much easier to change than the pan filter. After a few thousand miles you can drain the pan again, and refill. As you do that you will slowly dilute the fluid to where it is mostly new, and with the Magnefine, it will be clean. If you think you have any debris in the fluid, you should plan on changing the Magnefine after a few thousand miles, then again ever 10k or so.
I tow with mine, so I change the fluid at 15k to stay on top of it and ensure I have fresh fluid.
#3
What Woodnnthings said. After about 75,000 miles of not being changed a transmission shop will strongly recommend that you not flush or even change your fluid for fear that it will do more harm than good. As the detergents in the transmission fluid do a great job of breaking free any sediment that has lodged itself out of the way.
#4
Follow Mark Kovalsky's instructions found here: Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission .: Articles
I have been told that if the fluid has never been changed then don't do it.
If this is the case can someone explain this logic?
If this is the case can someone explain this logic?
Stewart
#5
After you've been here for awhile, you'll know eveyone recommends Mark K's method I linked to above, not a machine.
Not that a machine is bad, because it isn't, it's just that we all seem to recommend Mark's method.
Stewart
Not that a machine is bad, because it isn't, it's just that we all seem to recommend Mark's method.
Stewart
#6
What Woodnnthings said. After about 75,000 miles of not being changed a transmission shop will strongly recommend that you not flush or even change your fluid for fear that it will do more harm than good. As the detergents in the transmission fluid do a great job of breaking free any sediment that has lodged itself out of the way.
A flush removes the old oil through the cooler lines and replaces it with new oil back into the cooler lines. The fluid is pumped by the transmission's pump and is at the same pressure as it would be if the flush machine were not in the circuit. There is no such thing as a power flush. Since the fluid is flowing the same way as normal, and at the same pressure, it does not stir up crap laying in the pan. It operates just as the trans always has.
If there is enough junk in the pan to damage the trans, the trans is already junk. It needs to come out regardless of whether or not it's flushed.
Your trans failed for one of two reasons. Either it was already 75 miles from dies when you had it flushed, or the flush wasn't done correctly and damaged the trans.
If there is enough junk in the pan to damage the trans, the trans is already junk. It needs to come out regardless of whether or not it's flushed.
Your trans failed for one of two reasons. Either it was already 75 miles from dies when you had it flushed, or the flush wasn't done correctly and damaged the trans.
Transmissions get blown soon after a flush all the time. What happens is that people ignore the trans until it starts having problems. Then they get the fluid flushed hoping that the problem will go away. It won't go away, because it's already failed. New fluid won't save it, and it dies. It would have died without the flush, too.
If the trans is in good shape a flush can only help extend the life of the trans. If it's already damaged a flush won't repair it, but it won't kill it, either.
If the trans is in good shape a flush can only help extend the life of the trans. If it's already damaged a flush won't repair it, but it won't kill it, either.
That's an old wive's tale that does not have a shred of truth to it. Old crud in a clutch CANNOT keep it going. If the clutch is that bad it's already failed.
A flush, either by a machine or Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission .: Articles method are the best ways to change the fluid. Just dropping the pan and changing the filter gets less than half of the fluid out.
Back to the original question, the only way to know why the OD light flashed is to have the codes read. If the light doesn't flash again you can proablby just ignore it, it probably was overheated. If it flashes again get the code read quickly before a minor problem turns into a need for a new transmission.
A flush, either by a machine or Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission .: Articles method are the best ways to change the fluid. Just dropping the pan and changing the filter gets less than half of the fluid out.
Back to the original question, the only way to know why the OD light flashed is to have the codes read. If the light doesn't flash again you can proablby just ignore it, it probably was overheated. If it flashes again get the code read quickly before a minor problem turns into a need for a new transmission.
Many people NEVER maintain their transmission. Then a problem starts, and they take it to get flushed. They don't know it, but by ignoring the trans it died. They are trying to revive it by changing the fluid. New fluid can't save it, it's already dead.
If it won't move after a flush either the trans was dead when the flush started, or the person doing the flush really didn't know what they were doing and screwed up the trans.
There is no reason why the filter can't be changed when the flush is done. Read the article I listed above. One of the steps describes how to change the filter without taking an ATF shower.
If it won't move after a flush either the trans was dead when the flush started, or the person doing the flush really didn't know what they were doing and screwed up the trans.
There is no reason why the filter can't be changed when the flush is done. Read the article I listed above. One of the steps describes how to change the filter without taking an ATF shower.
#7
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#8
I am pretty familiar with Mark and the flush method that everyone can do at home. I have even do it on a few trucks. Most shops that will do a flush use a fluid exchange machine that has also caused some questions as to why transmissions tend to fail after being neglected and then flushed. Not sure if the OP was planning on doing it himself or having it done, so I added the machine procedure to make him aware of the issues some complain about. Some people (trans builders) still recommend only doing a drain and fill at less of an interval than a flush. This is the happy medium for those like the OP who are a little worried about it killing their trans.
#9