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Perplexing, Puzzling, and a Pain. '91 351 running cool

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  #31  
Old 01-17-2011, 05:25 PM
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Miracle engine .

Let me apologize in advance for the following comments.
It's just like a test essay question I would write if I forgot to study the material, so I give it a d minus.

Don't bother reading this if you have anything better to do.
This post gets a little out there but I get stuck in a chair whether I like it or not and get tired of tv. So, there, forewarned.

The only real heat is going out the exhaust from your temp readings.
Would seriously off timing just let it burn and blow all the petrol energy it's creating? Would almost have to run like an old 'hit and miss' engine from the turn of the century. blowing 90% of it's energy out the exhaust and salvaging the rest to a massive flywheel as an incidental side effect of the combustion.

Surely it wouldn't run hardly at all if that was the case.
You say it runs, like every day, almost like a normal piece of machinery, right?
Redneck engineering dictates taking some exhaust heat via a copper coil borrowed from the still, wrap it around the exhaust and let it heat the coolant.
Simple!!

Wait for the patent to run out and then file over top of it.
There must be an application for "no heat combustion", maybe NASA.

It's almost acting like a heat pump in terms of conventional understanding.

Refrigerate 20 degree outside air and create heat, or refrigerate 100 degree outside air and blow cold inside. But in both cases, you are refrigerating air.

I mean, this engine makes as much sense as that, eh?

Are you sure there's NO extra monster towpackage oil cooler somewhere that you paid for and didn't ask for?

Prob not the issue but I ran some rad hoses to my truck bed and hooked it up to an aux heater core radiator thing so I'd have some heat in the back under the cap for those new england winters back in the 70's.


For my triumph tr3 running the AZ desert, I had a huge extra watertank in the trunk just to give the coolant a time and place to 'rest'.
Sounds stupid, but I was young and desperate and had heat issues as unanswerable as your cold issue.

I'm watching mythbusters right now and they DO spend $$ on stuff.

Unless you're in love with that engine for some sentimental reason, we'll start an urban legend like we already have, and let them bust it.

I'm sure they spent tons of $$ on the beautiful 60's chrysler imperials they blew up last week.

I know this is prob real important to you so I don't mean to trivialize, but sometimes lightening the mood leads to alternate creativity.

Hi Tech brainstorming sessions usually blurt out totally absurd ideas and lead to 'innovative' technologies. That's where that term came from.
Too ridiculous to be based in reality.

But seriously, if it were me and I needed the sob to run, I'd get some sort of engine coolant heater that keeps engines warm at a million below zero, like in Alaska. Propane powered coolant heater, which is absurd since you're already burning significant amounts of petrol.
Exhaust coil to run coolant thru since that's your only source of heat that can be found.


And then for the top thought in the absurd category, take the thermostat actually OUT and do the old farm trick by moderating your engine temp with rags or cardboard blocking the radiator.
If it doesn't work with the t stat in there.....aaaah, that's stretchin' it but something I'd prob try that personally out of frustration and to be able to rule out one more thing. bad batch of t stats that never close?
Boil it on the stove and see it it opens AND closes...more than once.

Or copyright the story as a test question and sell it to engineering universities or national licensing boards as a mandatory correct answer question for them to get their licenses.

man o' man, I have NO idea, but I guess you all figured that out by now.
Sorry if I wasted anyone's time.

:-)
 
  #32  
Old 01-17-2011, 06:28 PM
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Good stuff doc !
 
  #33  
Old 01-17-2011, 06:34 PM
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mine was the new thermostat stuck 94 inline six

but you tried that
if you goober the stat going in it will jam

took it out cold and it was stuck WFO
 
  #34  
Old 01-17-2011, 09:05 PM
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Can anyone validate this:

I have seen that the only way to cure this issue is to get a FORD theromsat.
 
  #35  
Old 01-17-2011, 09:21 PM
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I've changed out my share of stuck thermo stats. When they stuck close blew coolant out the overflow and over heats. When stuck open took for ever and a day to warm up. SOME hard great heat just toook 1+ hours of driving or had little heat at all. I got my thermostat in my 94 351w from carquest and its still good(crosses fingers)
 
  #36  
Old 01-18-2011, 05:29 AM
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after this threaad, I'm gonna boil and cool any new thermostat at least 10 times before I install them.
 
  #37  
Old 01-18-2011, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MattP51
Can anyone validate this:

I have seen that the only way to cure this issue is to get a FORD theromsat.
no if you put more than 2 thermostats in it that's not the problem you wouldn't get more than one bad one back to back while I like motor craft parts it's not a must use part
 
  #38  
Old 01-18-2011, 06:37 AM
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if the fan runs while the engine is still cold it will not reach temp it's cooling the radiator that is like trying to defrost meat out of the freezer by putting it in the fridge it will get warmer slowly to a point but it works better to put it in hot water
 
  #39  
Old 01-18-2011, 08:13 AM
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Just gonna ask...Have we tried to remove the clutch fan or fan from the water pump shaft to see if it makes a difference.

I'm not cert. mech., but if I need heat for the winter drives and I'm not getting it, by gosh, I'm gonna find a way. it is exactly what I did with my old 300.

Changed water pump, change t-stat, 2nd one I put in was a motorcraft, all new hoses. 2 rad. caps, 2nd one was a motorcraft. No heat. Pulled the clutch fan and all, got heat. Put back on when the temps started reaching the 40's to 50's during the days.
 
  #40  
Old 01-18-2011, 10:39 AM
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Here's something I rediscovered last year when the rad in our Ranger expired. The replacement rad was a dual core while the original was a single, I didn't request a dual core that was what I was given at the parts store and I didn't think anything of it at the time, but when winter rolled around the truck had a new problem that hadn't occured before.. no heat on the gauge or in the cab. I swapped out the T-stat but it didn't make much difference, had to block off most of that rad in the winter to get any heat in the system. Bottom line is some of these motors don't generate much heat and you can put too much cooling capacity on them.
 
  #41  
Old 01-18-2011, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
Just gonna ask...Have we tried to remove the clutch fan or fan from the water pump shaft to see if it makes a difference.

I'm not cert. mech., but if I need heat for the winter drives and I'm not getting it, by gosh, I'm gonna find a way. it is exactly what I did with my old 300.

Changed water pump, change t-stat, 2nd one I put in was a motorcraft, all new hoses. 2 rad. caps, 2nd one was a motorcraft. No heat. Pulled the clutch fan and all, got heat. Put back on when the temps started reaching the 40's to 50's during the days.

Have not tried it yet....
 
  #42  
Old 01-18-2011, 06:00 PM
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Conanski has a point. I know that on my '92 300, OEM was a 1 core, but I got a 2 core as a replacement. Even though it didn't make a difference as for heat in the winter, anything is possible.
 
  #43  
Old 01-18-2011, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
Conanski has a point. I know that on my '92 300, OEM was a 1 core, but I got a 2 core as a replacement. Even though it didn't make a difference as for heat in the winter, anything is possible.

Hell, anything is possible....I bought this used and I sure can't tell if the rad is original or 2 core or what. Cardboard in front of the rad has brought the temp up a few degrees, but why should you have to use card board just to make your vehicle run correctly?
 
  #44  
Old 01-18-2011, 09:40 PM
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After reading this post and others like it, I'm sure everyone checked the basics first, like working thermostate(test them first !), water pump in good condition, pull out let hose from cool engine and run briefly to make sure you have good output(use bucket). After all the basics still yeald no heat, has anyone checked the conditon of the blocks cooling passages? If the cooling system has been abused/neglected, you would be amazed at the amount of rusty crud that could be blocking heat transfer from the block to the coolant. Not to mention that a lot of these trucks are not exactly spring chickens. How many years has that old anti freeze been in there?

If you pull the bypass hose(coolant drained), take a pipe cleaner of something like that and dip it into the engine, I bet it comes out looking like the bottom of a hot water heater.

I would suggest a quality engine block cleaning, flushing. If nothing else, it's required maintence thats often overlooked.

Good luck
 
  #45  
Old 01-18-2011, 09:59 PM
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Theory behind the cardboard is the same as when you see diesels in the cold months going around with covers on most/all of their grill. Outside temp is way lower, so it's easier to make it retain heat in the winter with a simple snap-on critter..

I don't know about others, I have a slight case of the problem you do, even in the summertime, but one time I did get it to heat up properly and it burped up sludge/mud. I was terrified that I blew a gasket when towing on a 96 degree day, but temp went back down, it began behaving as usual and I can't find any trace.
I think these trucks are just stubborn sometimes and demanding, which is why I refer to Big Red as "She" and "Her" My girlfriend just rolls her eyes
 


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