Need a new oil Cooler.
#18
#19
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Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzleguzzle's Mods & Maintenance website
Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzle
#20
We got the R&R and rebuild down to 20 minutes now. That's including dumping the oil and antifreeze and putting it back in. I'll be doing it again as soon as I get a new front cover.
Some tips for doing it quick and relatively clean. With the radiator cap still on take out the block drain plug by the back of the cooler and quickly hand thread a 3/8 thread male air fitting into it with a 18 inch long piece of 3/8 hose. Then put the end of the hose into a big clean coolant drain bucket. Now loosen the cap. When you think it's done draining stuff a rag in the hole where the cap goes and put an air nozzle in there. You'll get a couple gallons more and it won't run from your water port on top into the oil port on bottom of the front cover flange.
Punch a hole in the oil filter bottom and drain it. Then pull the little brass plug out of the side of the rear cooler header to let the rest of the oil run out of it.
If you are careful wiggling it out of there not much of anything will hit the ground or your face.
Also it's a good idea to take the drivers front tire off and to have someone pull outwards on teh two fuel lines there when you are trying to manipulate the cooler.
One last thing, torque wrenches are way way off when you have a 3 foot extension on them. Ditch the extension. YOu don't need it if you go in from the front when torquing it. Not if you have the proper 3/8 drive torque wrench for bolts this small.
Some tips for doing it quick and relatively clean. With the radiator cap still on take out the block drain plug by the back of the cooler and quickly hand thread a 3/8 thread male air fitting into it with a 18 inch long piece of 3/8 hose. Then put the end of the hose into a big clean coolant drain bucket. Now loosen the cap. When you think it's done draining stuff a rag in the hole where the cap goes and put an air nozzle in there. You'll get a couple gallons more and it won't run from your water port on top into the oil port on bottom of the front cover flange.
Punch a hole in the oil filter bottom and drain it. Then pull the little brass plug out of the side of the rear cooler header to let the rest of the oil run out of it.
If you are careful wiggling it out of there not much of anything will hit the ground or your face.
Also it's a good idea to take the drivers front tire off and to have someone pull outwards on teh two fuel lines there when you are trying to manipulate the cooler.
One last thing, torque wrenches are way way off when you have a 3 foot extension on them. Ditch the extension. YOu don't need it if you go in from the front when torquing it. Not if you have the proper 3/8 drive torque wrench for bolts this small.
#22
We got the R&R and rebuild down to 20 minutes now. That's including dumping the oil and antifreeze and putting it back in. I'll be doing it again as soon as I get a new front cover.
Some tips for doing it quick and relatively clean. With the radiator cap still on take out the block drain plug by the back of the cooler and quickly hand thread a 3/8 thread male air fitting into it with a 18 inch long piece of 3/8 hose. Then put the end of the hose into a big clean coolant drain bucket. Now loosen the cap. When you think it's done draining stuff a rag in the hole where the cap goes and put an air nozzle in there. You'll get a couple gallons more and it won't run from your water port on top into the oil port on bottom of the front cover flange.
Punch a hole in the oil filter bottom and drain it. Then pull the little brass plug out of the side of the rear cooler header to let the rest of the oil run out of it.
If you are careful wiggling it out of there not much of anything will hit the ground or your face.
Also it's a good idea to take the drivers front tire off and to have someone pull outwards on teh two fuel lines there when you are trying to manipulate the cooler.
One last thing, torque wrenches are way way off when you have a 3 foot extension on them. Ditch the extension. YOu don't need it if you go in from the front when torquing it. Not if you have the proper 3/8 drive torque wrench for bolts this small.
Some tips for doing it quick and relatively clean. With the radiator cap still on take out the block drain plug by the back of the cooler and quickly hand thread a 3/8 thread male air fitting into it with a 18 inch long piece of 3/8 hose. Then put the end of the hose into a big clean coolant drain bucket. Now loosen the cap. When you think it's done draining stuff a rag in the hole where the cap goes and put an air nozzle in there. You'll get a couple gallons more and it won't run from your water port on top into the oil port on bottom of the front cover flange.
Punch a hole in the oil filter bottom and drain it. Then pull the little brass plug out of the side of the rear cooler header to let the rest of the oil run out of it.
If you are careful wiggling it out of there not much of anything will hit the ground or your face.
Also it's a good idea to take the drivers front tire off and to have someone pull outwards on teh two fuel lines there when you are trying to manipulate the cooler.
One last thing, torque wrenches are way way off when you have a 3 foot extension on them. Ditch the extension. YOu don't need it if you go in from the front when torquing it. Not if you have the proper 3/8 drive torque wrench for bolts this small.
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