Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Fuel Tank Sending Units

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  #46  
Old 08-17-2014, 05:10 PM
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i have figured out how to salvage any bad pcb in the sender to give another 30 years of use. you basically remove the dielectric between the resistor and the bad area and shift the pcb over 1/16 of an inch and there is room. I just did it and it worked.

also the floats have a design problem, the wire holder at the end is bent to much applying pressure to the float. Over time and sloshing around this causes a hole, I fixed mine by soldering the hole shut and soldering to the wire holder as a solid unit now.

and third I put in a filter in the tank and that one has been working for a few years too. why put in a ford pick up that we know had a design problem.

I discuss these in more detail at the below link on the subject.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t-options.html
 
  #47  
Old 01-12-2015, 09:51 PM
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Here's a heads up, there's a guy that's selling, (and presumably manufacturing), the until now impossible to find front tank sending unit for the '85-'86 diesels.
<SNIP>

I just ordered one, convinced myself I can afford it right now. If self doesn't kick me in the butt later I'll report on quality when it arrives.
 

Last edited by Chevy_Eater; 01-17-2015 at 01:49 PM. Reason: Removed link.
  #48  
Old 01-13-2015, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
Here's a heads up, there's a guy that's selling, (and presumably manufacturing), the until now impossible to find front tank sending unit for the '85-'86 diesels.

Video Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171515899205?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I just ordered one, convinced myself I can afford it right now. If self doesn't kick me in the butt later I'll report on quality when it arrives.
Awesome, I was actually looking to replace my broken front sending unit. Nice find I'll also be dropping the $ on that, I hate not knowing what's in the front tank.
 
  #49  
Old 01-13-2015, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by d-day
Awesome, I was actually looking to replace my broken front sending unit. Nice find I'll also be dropping the $ on that, I hate not knowing what's in the front tank.
I KWYM, I've been driving on weird fuel level readings since I got the truck. As mentioned earlier in the thread the rear ones are available @ LMC, but until now the fronts were NLA. Looks like someone noticed the void and filled it.

Note though, it does not come with the Cone of Failure so you'll have to add it or the hose fix to the pickup.
 
  #50  
Old 01-13-2015, 08:19 AM
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Does it look decent? Both our diesel's suffer from bouncing gauge syndrome. $139 is a little steep for me right now but if its gonna work it may be worth it
 
  #51  
Old 01-13-2015, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Gettysburg150
Does it look decent? Both our diesel's suffer from bouncing gauge syndrome. $139 is a little steep for me right now but if its gonna work it may be worth it
I haven't gotten it yet, just ordered it yesterday when I posted this, but when it arrives I'll report on quality.

I hear you, then add the shipping, then sales tax for me since it's from California, it came out to $167. I probably shouldn't have bought it, it's that time of year I dole out for insurances and taxes so money's tight right now. But I know often when I procrastinate I loose; so I figured I'd grab it while it was available.
 
  #52  
Old 01-13-2015, 01:21 PM
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To bad they didn't make it for the vans. I have an 86 and either tank has worked right since new. One goes to quarter tank and the other doesn't register at all. I just figure so many miles for tank and refill. Sucks, Dealer at the time said it wasn't covered on wariinity.
 
  #53  
Old 01-17-2015, 01:54 PM
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Okay, update. DO NOT BUY! I removed the link.

Arrived today, as soon as I have it out of the box I can see it's the wrong one; not the one in the picture. The unit received is for a gasser, has the electric fuel pump mount and wiring.

Thinking it may just be an honest mistake I have sent a message to the seller, but upon reviewing his feedback I can see he has a history of shipping the wrong parts and not responding to buyers.

Probably going to have to open a case on this one.
 
  #54  
Old 01-19-2015, 08:32 AM
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Thanks for the update, sorry you had to be the guinea pig

So can you salvage the board and swap it over to the original level sender?
 
  #55  
Old 01-19-2015, 07:19 PM
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Not going to try, for nearly $200 it's going back. If I want to try that idea (I may, I've read some people have done it) I'm sure I can get a gasser unit much cheaper.

Seller has yet to respond to me, but ebay gave me a return label so in the mail it goes tomorrow.
 
  #56  
Old 01-19-2015, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
You are correct Coolbean, removing the bed is the way to go, I'm done with dropping fuel tanks and eating rust and dirt and trying not to ruin the wiring and lines.

I did this recently on my S15, was easy as could be, but of course the F250 is quite larger and heavier. In this picture this is how I had the straps set up for removal. It looks precarious because it was. It worked, but the cherry picker was off balance because it was fully extended. When I put the bed back on I just hooked the picker to the middle and front straps and used a ratchet strap on the rear strap and raised it to the boom that way. Was much more stabler that time.

Any way, like I said it was pretty much a dry run, next time it comes off I'll hopefully have the circuit boards, a leaf spring to replace the broken one, and a set of shocks. Might as well do it all at once while it's easy to get to.





Just for fun, the S15:

Great Thread !!!
I just read most of it.

Maybe this was covered and I missed it.
But,
I've a question about raising the bed;
Would it be possible to use such an engine hoist on the side of the truck?
rather than the rear?
It seems that that would allow the boom to be shortened. Increasing the leverage of the boom. (or, decreasing the leverage of the lifted bed....

Just a thought.

Any way, it's a fix I need to make on mine. Thanks for the details,. And, the follow up..
 
  #57  
Old 01-19-2015, 08:58 PM
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I suppose it could be done that way, you'd have to find the correct center of gravity so it doesn't tip to one side or the other.

But then the problem you'd have is not being able to drive out from under it and I don't like working under a suspended load.

I said this up there, but I can't stress enough you have to keep safety in mind if you do it like I did up there. The S15 was nothing, easy as could be; the Ford was awkward and wobbly. If you could find an additional way to support the bed and/or anchor the legs of the hoist you'd be in much better shape safety wise.
 
  #58  
Old 01-19-2015, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
I suppose it could be done that way, you'd have to find the correct center of gravity so it doesn't tip to one side or the other.

But then the problem you'd have is not being able to drive out from under it and I don't like working under a suspended load.

I said this up there, but I can't stress enough you have to keep safety in mind if you do it like I did up there. The S15 was nothing, easy as could be; the Ford was awkward and wobbly. If you could find an additional way to support the bed and/or anchor the legs of the hoist you'd be in much better shape safety wise.
Point well taken.
Absolutely, the truck should be out from under the bed.

Edit,
I see now what you mean. The legs were under the truck and you pulled away from the hoist. \
My Idea would require some kind of ramp over the legs of the hoist. ...
 
  #59  
Old 01-19-2015, 09:25 PM
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Or dig a small trench the legs could sit in so they're flush with the ground.

It's a thought...
 
  #60  
Old 01-19-2015, 10:04 PM
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Hoist wouldn't go high enough before the side of the bed hit the beam on the hoist. IMO. If you do it from the rear you remove the tailgate and have that much more clearance.
 


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